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86 250R clutch

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  #11  
Old 05-18-2005, 08:03 PM
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Default 86 250R clutch

Originally posted by: rdnred
This has nothing to do with this forum. I posted a new topic but no one answered. Does anyone know if a cool dome head for my 250 R will help?
Help with what, what are you looking for?

 
  #12  
Old 05-18-2005, 09:37 PM
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Default 86 250R clutch

A cool dome head for an 86 250R. I didn't know if anyone might know anything about them or not. I don't know anyone that has one on a 250R. I've seen them on the Banshee but not on the R.
 
  #13  
Old 05-18-2005, 09:46 PM
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Default 86 250R clutch

Originally posted by: rdnred
A cool dome head for an 86 250R. I didn't know if anyone might know anything about them or not. I don't know anyone that has one on a 250R. I've seen them on the Banshee but not on the R.
They can be used for the 250R.
I have not heard anything bad about them. The 250R however does not have the problems with overheating like the Banshee does.
If you are wanting to bump up your compression, you can always have the head shaved and re-chambered for a lot less ~35 bucks or so.
 
  #14  
Old 05-18-2005, 09:49 PM
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Default 86 250R clutch

The main reason to use one is the option of changing head chamber volume, if higher compression is the goal then a smaller cc dome insert can be used. They also give the advantage of increased coolant in the head area. I have an ESR on my 88R.
 
  #15  
Old 05-20-2005, 12:55 AM
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Default 86 250R clutch

Thanks for all the advice. I put the hinson cluthch basket and clutches in my R today and still the same thing clucth still doing the same thing. So i am guessing it is the rod like you all stated. One more question in my newest R the lifter rod had a ball attatched to the end of it (this was in the fourwheeler i had been having the problem with jumping like the clutches were sticking), the other one had a rod but the ball wasn't attatched to the end of it, it was free(no problem with the clutch). Whats the deal has one of them been updated at some time cause both of them are 86's. I also called Service honda to see about the kit and whoever i talked to said he didn't know about the kit, just wanting to check and see if there maybe was another name for it. I need to order this by tommorow. Thanks hope this makes since.
 
  #16  
Old 05-20-2005, 07:37 AM
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Default 86 250R clutch

The ball should not be attached to the rod so there's a problem, it's friction seized or welded together. I'll get the kit part number, the guy at Service Honda wasn't to knowledgeable on the R's obviously as I ordered my kit from them...
 
  #17  
Old 05-20-2005, 11:19 AM
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Default 86 250R clutch

Yea i figured there was something wrong with one of them when i took it apart. Do you think if i put the rod and bearing out of the fourhwheeler that was ok that it would help the one that i was having problems with. Also on the one that the ball wasn't stuck to the rod how can i get the rod out of there, i thought i might try to pull it out with a magnet. I really need to get this thing fixed by saturday if at all possible. Thanks for all the help.....
 
  #18  
Old 05-20-2005, 06:56 PM
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Default 86 250R clutch

Yes you can use the other good parts, it should correct the clutch drag if the rod is ok and not worn. The rod should just slide out, pull the clutch lever in and snag it with a magnet or needle nose pliers...
 
  #19  
Old 05-20-2005, 10:59 PM
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Default 86 250R clutch

Took the good parts out and put them in my newest R, this fixed the problem. Now i have encountered another one. When i took the drain plug out to drain the oil, someone had cross threaded the plug. Well now it won't tighten up, any suggestions to this problem would be helpfull. Seems like i get one thing fixed another always happens. Thanks for the info. bout the clutches i probably would have taken it to the Honda dealer before long and spent $2-300 on gettin it fixed. Thanks again
 
  #20  
Old 05-20-2005, 11:28 PM
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Default 86 250R clutch

I had the drain plug problem on my 87 when I bought it used. I got a GM oil pan drain plug with a 9/16 hex head (older engines) and a new style sealing washer with the rubber insert, it's slightly larger than the stock plug. Get a tap also to match the GM plug threads, coat it with heavy grease (to hold the chips) flush the trans with some oil to get out any left over chips and you'll be good to go. When you fill the trans it's better to measure out 700cc of oil and just pour it in rather than use the check bolt in the clutch cover. If you pour the oil in to fast it will run out the oil check hole before the right amount gets into the rest of the trans. Your trans/clutch parts will last longer with proper lube levels.
 


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