Any idea how much a top end job would cost? Is this something a non mechanic could do or should I leave this to the professionals?

 

If it goes to "full throttle" you have an air leak somewhere or your slide is not put in right. If your slide is right then you have to have an air leak somewhere. For an engine to go to full throttle it has to have air. Two strokes can suck air from anywhere. Jug to case, carb intake, head gasket; anywhere.
Recheck everywhere it can suck air. Fix that first and worry about the fuel problem latter. You might not have a fuel problem if you fix the air leak.

 

What kind of compression tester did you get? Screw in or one with a rubber end??
Sounds like you may not be getting a good seal?
You said it ran last summer??

Try this. Can you hold your thumb over the hole and restrict pressure from coming out, or does it push your thumb completely off??

How hard is it to kick over??

Sorry, but 90 PSI sounds EXTREMELY low, especially if you had it running last time you used it.

 

It was a screw in type. It would not thread down all the way but it was tight. I just tried putting my thunb over the whole and kicking it over and it blows my finger off the whole. If i dont a little oil and gas in the spark plug it kicks over until it runs out of gas. It seems like it runs at reel high rpm.

 

If you can't keep your thumb over the hole when it is kicked over then compression is probably not your problem.

Also, I am concerned that the tester won't screw all the way down. Something is not right there.

As mentioned, you may have an air leak, but for sure something is wrong with the carb if you can dump gas directly into the spark plug hole and it runs, but not without dumping it directly into the hole.

Make sure the carb is put back together correctly (slide, needle, etc).
Is there slack in the throttle cable??

One time I put a carb back together on an 86 250R and it revved to the moon!! Had to put it in gear, and hit the brake to shut it down![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

Make sure there is free play in the thumb throttle, and make sure the slide is going all the way down into the carb.

 

I checked the thumb throttle and there is play in the cable. The cable moves in and out from the thumb throttle I think I need to adjust this but not sure how. I got it running after dumping gas and oil directly into the sparkplug and it stayed running for a couple of minutes but I had to have the idle all the way up and the air screw 3 turns from full tighten. After it stalled I was able to get it started once without putting anything into the plug hole but It wouldnt remain started without holding the gas on slightly. Agan the idle is out all the way. Now what? When i push the throttle and let it slam shut I can here the slide in the carb hit the bottom of the carb so I assume it is closing all the way.

 

Do you have the stock carb on there?
The stock carb is actually crap as far as the idle adjustment goes. You have to use the choke mechansim in order to adjust the idle. Something I never really cared for.

So you have screwed the choke adj all the way out??

Another thing you can do is adjust the cable at the thumb throttle or the top of the carb so that it keeps a little gas going in at idle (though I really don't like to have to do this either).

Sounds like it is no longer revving really high at idle??

Other than that without being there, my next suggestion is to get an aftermarket Keihin carb because the stock ones are pretty worn out as far as the idle adjustment and the float needle seat goes.

 

Here are the list of parts on it as far as I can see. I'm not sure what bore it is but it has the cool head dome (21cc over i think), boyeseen reeds, K&N filter, Keihen PJ carb, I dont now what the jets are in it, FMF gold series exhaust and spark arrestor, fox shocks, dg nerfbars, hole shot tires.

THe idle/chock is turned all the way out so at its highest point.

it is no longer reving really high at startup. Know I have to keep the gas on to keep it running.

Is there a carb rebuild kit or do you have to get a new carb and if so how do you know what to get?

 

I don't have the Manual physically here presently (I am at college), but I believe it is a 34mm PJ.
Yes you can buy rebuild kits for it except the float needle seat is not replaceable. The float needle yes, but not the seat. They get oxidized over the years and can cause problems.

Have you checked the reeds to see if they are chipped??
Often times the reeds can cause these types of problems too. Check that before moving on.

Otherwise, you might try installing different pilot jets and playing with the air screw.
If that doesn't cut it, I'd seriously think about geting a newer Keihin. I've got a Keihin 38mm Airstryker on mine and love it. You can also get 34mm, 35mm, 36mm etc.

The larger the carb opening the better top end, but less bottom end power, and vice versa as you go down in carb size.

 

What do I look for on the reeds? How do I know if they are good or bad? I assume the reed is the part that connects the carb boot into the engine? THanks for all your help.