Hey fellas i could use your help. I have an 01 350 es that has a short somewhere. when i pull the main fuse there is no current draw. When i turn the ignition on i have no display and the electric start won't work. So I am force to pull start it and then the display works ok. Although i haven't had it on a good run since the problem started. I started pulling harnesses randomly but the only on that seems to do anything is the rectifier harness, it stops the current draw, but im not sure if thats the same as pulling the main fuse or if it narrows it down for me. Any info would be much appreciated. thanks

 

noone has any input?

 

Im trying to figure out how you can get it started if the main fuse is out.
But if you meant to say, that once the fuse is installed, and then the starter and display wont work until it is running...id suspect a dead battery. Have it load tested.
If you have a short circuit, then a fuse would blow, or youd see smoke.

 

What hondabuster said.

Or... are you saying that something is draining the battery?

 

once i reinstall the fuse and pull start it, the bike works good. But when its off something is definately draining the battery approx. 3.5mA. When I pull the regulator harness apart it stops the draw on the battery. I was just wondering if that should give me a clue as to where to look next.

 

3.5mA isnt that much, shouldnt drain a good battery that fast. This little bit is needed to store the clock info on the display and keep the memory alive in the ESP module. It would drain the battery over a couple months, but if you're gonna let the machine sit for a while you should unhook the negative battery cable and put a battery tender on it for long term storage. I'm going to assume you meant 3.5A instead....

OK so if you take the main fuse out the battery wont drain anymore? and the current draw stops after you pull the rectifier connector apart? I would replace the rectifier/regulator. I have a 2004 Rancher service manual with wiring diagrams for all the tm/fm and te/fe models (manual and electric shift, 2 and 4 wheel drive) and this is how the powerflow is:

from the positive of the battery, it goes into the main fuse. from the other side of the main fuse it goes to the key switch and T's off and one wire goes to the rectifier/regulator.

if there is a current draw in the rectifier it might not be enough to short the fuse. there are diodes and stuff in there like the alternator of a car, and if one goes bad it allows enough current to go the opposite way and drain the battery a little bit.

 

Thanks for the reply quik, I was reading my buddies manual and it says with the key of you shouldn't have more than 1 milli amp showing on the meter. Also now my electric start isn't starting the bike. Is that due to my weak battery. I just went out and tried it. I am now getting a neutral and oil light but when i push the start i here the selenoid clicking and thats it. I was only showing just over 7 volts at the terminals though. It was almost 10 volts last night

 

Ok I got the electric start working and the display when I turn on the ignition. That was happening because of a weak battery so I charged and its fine now. I still show a current draw though which does drain the battery over a couple of days. I not that confident with my electrical knowledge but even if the diodes are messed up in the rectifier, wouldn't there still have to be something shortinging somewhere to complete the circuit and cause the draw on the battery. I just pull the main fuse right now to stop the problem but If I take it out on along run I don't want to have to do that everytime I shut the bike off. Is there only certain things that are connected on the came curcuit as the rectifier that I could check for a bare wire or does everything in some way go through it.

 

If it were a short circuit ,the draw would be much more than 3.5 mili amps. Sounds like more of a parasitic drain. Look over all the connections in that circuit, and make sure they are clean and dry, and the contacts arent corrorded. Then fill them up with dielectric grease, and see if its better.
How good is the chargeing system? At 4000rpm or so, in nuetral, with the lights on, how much voltage do you see at the battery terminals?

 

If your battery is likely toast anyway, say, if it sat dischargede several days or a week, replace it and see what happens. If no improvement be sure to remove it and charge it back up while not using it so you don't wreck it too. 3.5 mA is only .042 watts at 12 volts. A cheap meter might not distinguish 3 mA from 1 mA. So your key-off drain could easily be in spec if you're not using a $100 meter.