I've gone through 2 sets of axle bearings. The originals lasted from '95 when i bought it, until the summer of 98, when they were examined, and found to be completely destroyed. The new bearings only lasted until this summer, a few years less than the stocks. Is there any reason why they wear out so quickly, and is this normal.

 

I've noticed that my wife's 300 seems to go thru axle bearings. I think it's due to the sealing surfaces on the sprocket hub and rotor hub getting worn / groved and not sealing as well as it did when it's new.
(I haven't priced a new sprocket hub and brake rotor hub, but I bet the prices would stop my heart)
This last time it wasn't totaly the bearings, but the axle also. It had worn and was loose in the bearings, so I peened the surfaces where the axle rides on the bearings that seemed to tighten things up, (now I can put the new axle expense off for a while.)
So- if anybody has found a way to restore the sealing surface(s) pass it on.

'88- 250R ,'93- 300EX, '99-400Ex

 

I had the same Problem as u with the groves in the hubs, I knew that if I were to put my
brand new axle carier on the the grooves in the hub would quickly eat my ceals, So I took
them to a machine shop.Luckily, I knew the owner very well, What he did was he machined
the hub down were the ceal rides and put a stainless steal sleave over it which will last a
liftime.The normal cost for this would be about $80 bucks but since i knew him well i was able
to dig two 3 foot holes for him that he needed in building his house this is the way to go
rather than buying new hubs with a stainless steal sleave they will last longer and be cheaper,
If there is anything in this typo filled email that u dont uderstand just email me back.

 

How can you tell when the bearings are getting bad? Do they seize-up or do you hear a grinding sound. How much are a new set of bearings? The last question I have is can you explain to me how to change them in detail. The reasons for these questions are I belive mine are going out as well. Thanks for any information you can give.

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The job of replacing the axle bearings can be done without a manual, but it takes some time. The hardest part is the locking nut. It's a left hand thread, opposite of the normal "lefty loosy" formula. It's easy to know when your bearings are completely gone. The axle will wiggle if you pick the wheel up and down. Also, a grinding noise occurs as well. If you suspect there gone, don't ride too long or you'll end up wrecking the axle hubs, and that will require machining, or a new axle.

 

The easy way to check them is pick up the back end and set it on something. Spin the axel and listen for grinding. Grab the end of the axel(take the tire off)and wiggle it up and down and back and forth. If your hear grinding or if it moves, replace them. I have a '95 300ex that I replace both the front and rear every 6 months to a year. But then again I am a compulsive, preventive maintaince freak!

 

I have run into the axle bering problem with just about all my bikes and my friends bikes:
84ATC200X
several ATC350X's
a couple of ATC250R's

They use ball bearing type bearings (like a motorcycle), when sealed well from the factory they work ok and work well on a motorcycle, but the ball bearings can't take the side-load dished out to them by the axle of an ATV.
I have found that the Tapered roller bearings work very well, the only drawback is that you lose some chain adjustment.

My tapered roller carrier has been in my ATC250R now for about 3 years with no problems at all. Another advantage is that you can re-pack them with grease easily.

Gabe

 

I am having trouble installing new front axle bearings due to multiple ridge's in the housing . The inner was easy but the outer has 2 different ridge's smaller than the bearings.

 

You would have been much better posing this as a new post in the Suzuki section as Suzuki front hubs have little in common with Honda rears.

Assuming you have a 4WD Eiger, the bearings press out from the inside, so the new ones are pressed from outside in, with the spacer in between. If you didn't get the outer race of the old bearing out, you can't get the new one in.

I always put grease in the middle, even though they are "sealed" bearings, and plenty of grease on the new seals, as they won't get any more lubrication. If the housing has been really badly chewed, the new bearings will not go in far enough and the spacer will not touch the inner races, this puts strain on the bearings when you tighten the hub, I have known new ones to fail right away, removing the curl of metal from the bearing seat takes patience, but is required if the housing is chewed.