Finally Bought A R!
#1
04-08-2006 | 03:36 AM
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Finally Bought A R!
Hi, I finally bought a R after wanting one for 4 years ! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Picture 1
Picture 2
The seller was pricing it at 2450$ but I got it for 1900$ which is a awesome price for where I live. Had to put 130$ of gas in the truck to get it though [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
It didn't come with the red handguards
I have A FMF pipe and a uni filter so I'd say it's pretty stock [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]........The main bearings and top end were rebuild last year with about 10 gas tanks burned...
The engine is running really strong IMO...I'm surprised, I'd say as strong as a shee...The transmission is shifting smooth and the clutch seems to engage like a charm...
2 questions:
It pull really strong on top end but it seems that if you're only a couple hundreds RPMS to low in a gear it has absolutly no power. I know it's a 2 stroke non-PV so it's kinda normal but it seems too radical..... I have a 14T front sprocket but I didn't check my rear but i Think it'S stock size. My question is.... it is possible it having a hard time to rev since I have 22 inches 4-snow at the rear and the gearing is too high? Or could it be my carb needle that makes it lack bottom end?
It seems to bog a little on W.O.T. like it would hit a rev limiter (Impossible I know) It's more like a bogging though....My hypothesis is that's I'm jetted too rich (Didn,t check the spark plug yet though)...It's it possible that I'm too rich... The throttle response is awesome too, no sputtering on anything like that. Normal healthy revving until WOT....(Not really changing anything in a riding condition since It's doing this bogging at max RPM lol)
Overall, excepting of those 2 little things I'm gonna check tomorrow, I'm really happy with my purchase. It's a little faster than I though [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]...Even my friend with a brand new kx250 is surprised [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]
Any ideas/feedbacks welcome....
Thanks!
PS...ONLY THING I NEED IS A REAR BRAKE SYSTEM (CALIPER,MASTER,LINE,DISC,RESERVOIR)....I WILL CHECK ON EBAY OR IF SOMEBODY HAS ONE TO SELL ME LET ME KNOW
Picture 1
Picture 2
The seller was pricing it at 2450$ but I got it for 1900$ which is a awesome price for where I live. Had to put 130$ of gas in the truck to get it though [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
It didn't come with the red handguards
I have A FMF pipe and a uni filter so I'd say it's pretty stock [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]........The main bearings and top end were rebuild last year with about 10 gas tanks burned...
The engine is running really strong IMO...I'm surprised, I'd say as strong as a shee...The transmission is shifting smooth and the clutch seems to engage like a charm...
2 questions:
It pull really strong on top end but it seems that if you're only a couple hundreds RPMS to low in a gear it has absolutly no power. I know it's a 2 stroke non-PV so it's kinda normal but it seems too radical..... I have a 14T front sprocket but I didn't check my rear but i Think it'S stock size. My question is.... it is possible it having a hard time to rev since I have 22 inches 4-snow at the rear and the gearing is too high? Or could it be my carb needle that makes it lack bottom end?
It seems to bog a little on W.O.T. like it would hit a rev limiter (Impossible I know) It's more like a bogging though....My hypothesis is that's I'm jetted too rich (Didn,t check the spark plug yet though)...It's it possible that I'm too rich... The throttle response is awesome too, no sputtering on anything like that. Normal healthy revving until WOT....(Not really changing anything in a riding condition since It's doing this bogging at max RPM lol)
Overall, excepting of those 2 little things I'm gonna check tomorrow, I'm really happy with my purchase. It's a little faster than I though [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]...Even my friend with a brand new kx250 is surprised [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]
Any ideas/feedbacks welcome....
Thanks!
PS...ONLY THING I NEED IS A REAR BRAKE SYSTEM (CALIPER,MASTER,LINE,DISC,RESERVOIR)....I WILL CHECK ON EBAY OR IF SOMEBODY HAS ONE TO SELL ME LET ME KNOW
#2
04-08-2006 | 04:03 AM
Range Rover
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 148
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Finally Bought A R!
i suggest doing a compression test to gauge overall condition of motor. your bogging is definitely your gearing since you need to compensate for those 22 inchers. also do a plug chop test to determine your jetting. lastly, check all the chassis bearings for any excess play since your dealing with an almost 20 yr old bike.
personally, i would first change ALL the fluids, install a fresh plug gapped @ .019" and clean the air filter ALL before my first ride. my 2 cents.
enjoy and be safe.
personally, i would first change ALL the fluids, install a fresh plug gapped @ .019" and clean the air filter ALL before my first ride. my 2 cents.
enjoy and be safe.
#3
04-08-2006 | 01:22 PM
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Finally Bought A R!
Originally posted by: atvbandit
i suggest doing a compression test to gauge overall condition of motor. your bogging is definitely your gearing since you need to compensate for those 22 inchers. also do a plug chop test to determine your jetting. lastly, check all the chassis bearings for any excess play since your dealing with an almost 20 yr old bike.
personally, i would first change ALL the fluids, install a fresh plug gapped @ .019" and clean the air filter ALL before my first ride. my 2 cents.
enjoy and be safe.
i suggest doing a compression test to gauge overall condition of motor. your bogging is definitely your gearing since you need to compensate for those 22 inchers. also do a plug chop test to determine your jetting. lastly, check all the chassis bearings for any excess play since your dealing with an almost 20 yr old bike.
personally, i would first change ALL the fluids, install a fresh plug gapped @ .019" and clean the air filter ALL before my first ride. my 2 cents.
enjoy and be safe.
As for the chassis bearings, everything is brand new. front/rear wheels bearings, swingarms bushings, no slack in front end. The bike is very tight...
Another thing that makes me sure my low end problem is my gearing, when i tried it yesterday, I was in full throttle in 5 and about at max rpm, then I shifted 6 and it didn't really rev anymore, not really riding the powerband....
Thanks guys !
#4
04-08-2006 | 09:39 PM
Range Rover
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 157
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Finally Bought A R!
[quote]
Originally posted by: TheQuadSport230
Thanks, excepting for the compression test, I planned to do all this today. I will do a plug chop and change the oil today + clean the air filter+ a new plug [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
As for the chassis bearings, everything is brand new. front/rear wheels bearings, swingarms bushings, no slack in front end. The bike is very tight...
Another thing that makes me sure my low end problem is my gearing, when i tried it yesterday, I was in full throttle in 5 and about at max rpm, then I shifted 6 and it didn't really rev anymore, not really riding the powerband....
you have a few aftermarket parts your steering stem-bumper
what yr is it
i paid 2000 for mine
before all my upgrades 1400 -tires,rims, plastic's ,nerf bars, bumpers,paul turner type 6 fatboy ,DMP graphics and seat cover
i'd say that you got a deal
the only thing on mine when i bought it was the LSR swingarm and v-force reed block
Originally posted by: TheQuadSport230
Originally posted by: atvbandit
i suggest doing a compression test to gauge overall condition of motor. your bogging is definitely your gearing since you need to compensate for those 22 inchers. also do a plug chop test to determine your jetting. lastly, check all the chassis bearings for any excess play since your dealing with an almost 20 yr old bike.
personally, i would first change ALL the fluids, install a fresh plug gapped @ .019" and clean the air filter ALL before my first ride. my 2 cents.
enjoy and be safe.
i suggest doing a compression test to gauge overall condition of motor. your bogging is definitely your gearing since you need to compensate for those 22 inchers. also do a plug chop test to determine your jetting. lastly, check all the chassis bearings for any excess play since your dealing with an almost 20 yr old bike.
personally, i would first change ALL the fluids, install a fresh plug gapped @ .019" and clean the air filter ALL before my first ride. my 2 cents.
enjoy and be safe.
As for the chassis bearings, everything is brand new. front/rear wheels bearings, swingarms bushings, no slack in front end. The bike is very tight...
Another thing that makes me sure my low end problem is my gearing, when i tried it yesterday, I was in full throttle in 5 and about at max rpm, then I shifted 6 and it didn't really rev anymore, not really riding the powerband....
you have a few aftermarket parts your steering stem-bumper
what yr is it
i paid 2000 for mine
before all my upgrades 1400 -tires,rims, plastic's ,nerf bars, bumpers,paul turner type 6 fatboy ,DMP graphics and seat cover
i'd say that you got a deal
the only thing on mine when i bought it was the LSR swingarm and v-force reed block
#5
04-09-2006 | 01:22 PM
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Finally Bought A R!
[quote]
Originally posted by: pimpt250r
Hi, It's a 1988 with a FMF pipe and a uni filter so not really modded....
I finally got the beast to run really good. I changed the front sprocket from a 14T to a 13T and it's flying. The front end don't want to stay on the ground. As for the high rev bogging, I think it's probably because the guy didn't clean the filter since 88
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]
I'm currently jetted on 165 and I will probably plug test it today. Still have some work to do on it but most of the job was done yesterday.
FUNNY FACT: My pipe was a little rusty so my friend cleaned it and polished her. He forgot a clothe in the exhaust and the engine bogged. I think we searched 3 hours what the problem was lol. I opened the carb about 5 times and checked the whole electrical system for a grounding. It was finally only a clothe blocking the exhaust haha. I just hope I didn't break anything since It ran lean with that in the exhaust since the plug was white (I didn't move with it though, only let it idle)
Originally posted by: pimpt250r
Originally posted by: TheQuadSport230
Thanks, excepting for the compression test, I planned to do all this today. I will do a plug chop and change the oil today + clean the air filter+ a new plug [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
As for the chassis bearings, everything is brand new. front/rear wheels bearings, swingarms bushings, no slack in front end. The bike is very tight...
Another thing that makes me sure my low end problem is my gearing, when i tried it yesterday, I was in full throttle in 5 and about at max rpm, then I shifted 6 and it didn't really rev anymore, not really riding the powerband....
you have a few aftermarket parts your steering stem-bumper
what yr is it
i paid 2000 for mine
before all my upgrades 1400 -tires,rims, plastic's ,nerf bars, bumpers,paul turner type 6 fatboy ,DMP graphics and seat cover
i'd say that you got a deal
the only thing on mine when i bought it was the LSR swingarm and v-force reed block
Originally posted by: atvbandit
i suggest doing a compression test to gauge overall condition of motor. your bogging is definitely your gearing since you need to compensate for those 22 inchers. also do a plug chop test to determine your jetting. lastly, check all the chassis bearings for any excess play since your dealing with an almost 20 yr old bike.
personally, i would first change ALL the fluids, install a fresh plug gapped @ .019" and clean the air filter ALL before my first ride. my 2 cents.
enjoy and be safe.
i suggest doing a compression test to gauge overall condition of motor. your bogging is definitely your gearing since you need to compensate for those 22 inchers. also do a plug chop test to determine your jetting. lastly, check all the chassis bearings for any excess play since your dealing with an almost 20 yr old bike.
personally, i would first change ALL the fluids, install a fresh plug gapped @ .019" and clean the air filter ALL before my first ride. my 2 cents.
enjoy and be safe.
As for the chassis bearings, everything is brand new. front/rear wheels bearings, swingarms bushings, no slack in front end. The bike is very tight...
Another thing that makes me sure my low end problem is my gearing, when i tried it yesterday, I was in full throttle in 5 and about at max rpm, then I shifted 6 and it didn't really rev anymore, not really riding the powerband....
you have a few aftermarket parts your steering stem-bumper
what yr is it
i paid 2000 for mine
before all my upgrades 1400 -tires,rims, plastic's ,nerf bars, bumpers,paul turner type 6 fatboy ,DMP graphics and seat cover
i'd say that you got a deal
the only thing on mine when i bought it was the LSR swingarm and v-force reed block
Hi, It's a 1988 with a FMF pipe and a uni filter so not really modded....
I finally got the beast to run really good. I changed the front sprocket from a 14T to a 13T and it's flying. The front end don't want to stay on the ground. As for the high rev bogging, I think it's probably because the guy didn't clean the filter since 88
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]
I'm currently jetted on 165 and I will probably plug test it today. Still have some work to do on it but most of the job was done yesterday.
FUNNY FACT: My pipe was a little rusty so my friend cleaned it and polished her. He forgot a clothe in the exhaust and the engine bogged. I think we searched 3 hours what the problem was lol. I opened the carb about 5 times and checked the whole electrical system for a grounding. It was finally only a clothe blocking the exhaust haha. I just hope I didn't break anything since It ran lean with that in the exhaust since the plug was white (I didn't move with it though, only let it idle)
#6
04-09-2006 | 02:25 PM
Range Rover
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 157
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#7
04-09-2006 | 05:01 PM
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Finally Bought A R!
Originally posted by: pimpt250r
i dont think you need a main jet that big for just an fmf pipe.
my pipe and v-force kit and i run a uni filter i am only at a 158 for 70 degrees and its a paul turner way better than fmf
you should be no higher than 155 or so stock is 152 on an 88
i dont think you need a main jet that big for just an fmf pipe.
my pipe and v-force kit and i run a uni filter i am only at a 158 for 70 degrees and its a paul turner way better than fmf
you should be no higher than 155 or so stock is 152 on an 88
I think I'm running lean. My spark plug is not brown chocolate, it's more white/brownish [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
EDIT: At 32 degrees though
Will rejet it tomorrow....
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#8
04-09-2006 | 05:08 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
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Finally Bought A R!
plug chart
Maybe you need to adjust the needle clip down one.
Lean is mean, but that's also how you toast a top end.
Maybe you need to adjust the needle clip down one.
Lean is mean, but that's also how you toast a top end.
#9
04-09-2006 | 05:11 PM
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Finally Bought A R!
Originally posted by: Sparky8370
plug chart
Maybe you need to adjust the needle clip down one.
Lean is mean, but that's also how you toast a top end.
plug chart
Maybe you need to adjust the needle clip down one.
Lean is mean, but that's also how you toast a top end.
#10
04-09-2006 | 05:22 PM
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