Yep I sure am, have been for heck I don't even remeber. I have been around the rubicons sence they came out, and I also own one.

Far as vavles the spec is .006" intake and .009" exhaust. Well the exhaust is really sensitive, too tight and the decompressor hangs up and ticks really loud till you bump the throttle, too loose and they tick.

I want to say I have done like 10 or more of these motors, not that they are bad just seen what happens.

This goes for all machines too. Some times different types of oils make motor idle rough ect.

 

 

I find that the problems I face trying to get the computer to work correctly are monumental compared to issues I might have with my Rubicons.
The camshaft for the Rubicon has its own integral compression release........My wife and I own two 2004 Rubicon's. We have about 3500 miles on the machines and both have encountered a ticking noise as you describe. Adjusting the valves was a short term fix but the problem returned. My machine had about 1500 miles when a tick/rattle began. I adjusted the valves myself.....I had a dealer adjust the valves........the tick/rattle returned. I took my machine to a dealer and said "tear it down, start at the top". We found that the rivets on the cage for the rear ball bearing on the camshaft had broken. This allowed the cage to break and the ball bearings to gather on one side of the bearing race or the other allowing movement in the camshaft. This caused the tick, when the camshaft would move this caused the compression release to move causing the rattle. Absolutely no further damage was caused to the engine or transmission (common oil supply). There is a trough directly under the camshaft that provide splash lubrication for the cam assembly. This contained all the material and what little got in the oil was handled quite well by the filter. Two weeks ago at 3500 miles the same tick/rattle started in my wife's machine. I immedietely ordered a cam assembly, head gasket, o'rings etc. Guess what? Same problem had occurred.
All machined parts were still perfect and unscored. The ***** in the bearing were still perfect. The rivets holding the cage in place had broken..........It might not be your issue but I am aware of 3 Rubicon camshaft bearing failures here in Northeast Oregon.....Hope this helps a bit........Tass

 

I have a friend in Truckee whose 03 rubi did the same thing. Is this unique to rubi's, or will a foreman have the same issue?

 

Since the problem is with the bearing and not with engine design or operation by the owner my guess would be that any engine that used this same ball bearing could experience the same failure. Since this type of failure is few and far between I would guess a problem in the assembly of the bearing itself is the cause. I left the bearing and camshaft with a friend but I will get them tomorrow and get the part number from the bearing and post it for everyone to see. If the foreman uses this same support bearing it could experience the same failure. Honda covered the failure on my machine under policy, all I paid for was the labor. I am fairly sure this new failure with my wife's machine is my responsibility as the machine is 2 1/2 years old and has 3500 miles on it. I will post the part number tomorrow............Tass

 

Tass, My 2001 only has 1300 easy miles on it- what year did they have the bad oil pump? Mine ticks a little after a hard day on the oregon coast, otherwise no tick what so ever and it runs as perfectly as it came off the showroom floor- I have never adjusted the valves
Thanks, Joe
MT Hood, Oregon

 

Well the dealer tore mine apart and yes, it's a bad cam. They're going to replace the cam, lifters, and the rings. Thanks for all the replys.

 

My Son's 2006 has 1700 miles with no issues whatsoever. We installed a new spark plug a week ago and are going to adjust the valves Saturday. The issue with the valve adjustment is the fact that the valves seat themselves into the head and after a period of time the valves can be operating too tightly. This can eventually lead to a burned valve or valve seat. For no more than it costs to have the procedure done or if you are mechanically inclined you might serve yourself well to have them set. We figure out a way to ride every weekend, snow, rain, or shine, we do not "hot rod" or race but just pushing through the snow or up some of our Eastern Oregon mountainsides puts a bit of strain on things........a bit of adjustment is a small price..........I have never heard of the oil pump having a problem, of course the population density is quite low here so we don't see many riders or machines...........Tass

 

It is good they found the problem.....If the repair is not covered by warranty or policy you might ask for the old parts. They are yours by right and if they are like ours were there is no actual camshaft damage. For the cost of a new bearing (assuming one can be found) you have a spare part that you or one of your buddies could use. The brand name is KOYO and the part number is 16003C3. I am not sure how that could be cross referenced but my Honda dealer is attempting to buy the bearing directly from Honda. If anyone has an interest I will let folks on this thread know the results. As soon as I remove the bearing from the housing I will provide dimensions as often a replacement bearing can be found by providing the measurements.............You might let us know the results of your repair....................Tass

 

Tass,
Thanks- I will send you a PM with my E-Mail if you can send me some pictures? As for east Oregon area- I am out that way quite often and roam the Ukiah and MT Emily areas, Im 100% mechanically awesome as I also just rebuilt and old VW diesel with solid lifters that's one of the most severe interference engines I have ever seen as I cannot even turn the cam 1/16 before a valve hits. But it gets 53 MPG with the tires aired up and pump turned down [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Thanks,
Joe