get a copper drain plug washer that crushes to keep it from happening in the first place and just use a wrench to tighten it.

 

The Honda drain plug has a aluminum washer on it from the factory. From drain plug repairs needed that I have done, most of them were not from tightening them so tight that they stripped, they were from the aluminum washer mushrooming into the beginning of the thread. It messes up the first thread, then when the drain plug is restarted into the case it takes the rest of the threads out. Preventive mainanance would to be replace the aluminum sealing crush washer at any sign of distortion.
On units that have the crush washer continually flattened by the customer over tightening them then eventually stripping them out, I will tap their drain hole to accept a drain plug from an early 90's XJR1200 Yamaha. This type of drain plug does not rely on a crush washer of various metals and shapes, rather has a groove machined into it to accept an o-ring. Presonally I prefer this style of drain plug sealing system as it takes away the margin of error on the torque value of crush style drain plug sealing rings, and seals any imperfetions in the drain plug sealing surface. Draw back of this oring style is the o-ring needs replacement more often than a metal sealing washer, messed up threads ar way lower on this style of drain plug though

----- Gimpster -----

 

Also, I don't know how big of a torque wrench you were using, but they are usually not accurate in the lower part of their range...

 

he was using a ft lb at about 18 ft lbs I believe now I am not sure what it says in the manual because I just tighten mine by hand, but that sounds like it is a little too much for a drain plug made of what white aluminum.

 

I don't think in my Honda manuals they even list the torque specs just say something to the effect tighten firmly. The yamaha says 22 ft-lb for the oil drain bolt and the oil tank is 18 ft-lb

 

I am a certified Toyota technician and the only place I use a torque wrench is critical bolts like head, cam, crank etcc... other than that I use my hand and in 20yrs of being a tech I have never had a bolt come back loose, fall out or break by using my hands. Torque wrenches have a place no matter what the manual says. Oil drain plugs dont have to be super tight. tighten by fingers than turn another 1/4-1/2 turn. Thats it.

 

Oh also if you do get the plug out you can get a self tapping over size plug and it will be fine.

 

Self tapping oversize drain plugs will split the case when turned in.
Be aware of this. It is not the same as drilling and tapping to the proper size.
No offence 2manytoys
I also have been a Honda motorcycle tech for 20 + years. I have seen minor gains by stuffing an oversized plug into the crankcase. More split cases than success.

----- Gimp -----

 

Thats cool you guys are both tech's I am going to school starting the 25th for Ford and being a tech, but honestly I enjoy working on quads and stuff more, but aren't sure if there is as much money in that business...Maybe you could help me out on thay one glimpster...I would agree that the torque wrench isn't needed unless it is internal otherwise don't use it and use your hands for feel and it will be fine...Have you tried an easy out for the bolt or anything?

 

They give you a torque spec for the people the change their own oil and don't know what they are doing. I wonder how many would just leave the plug finger tight?