Ok before you flame me I did do a search here and other forums, and the more threads I read the harder it was to make up my mind, so I am just going to ask.

I recently purchased an 07' 250ex & a 07' Raptor 700, which oil would be best for these two bikes, I prefer to use the same brand in both.

The Raptor forum seems to have a debate between Amsoil 0W-40 synthetic & Yamalube.

The Honda ATV forums are all over the place on what to use.

If I went with Amsoil I would have to order it, would this be fine for the 250ex as well?

 

Read this first for some background: http://forums.atvconnection.co...tid/21/threadid/520475

The basics: If you pick a motorcycle oil that is API SG/JASO MA, you can't go far wrong! Beyond that, the synthetics have lots of advantages over plain old petroleum oil.....

.....but there are 3 different types of synthetics: Group III (like Rotella), group IV PAO's (Mobil 1 and Amsoil), and the group V esters (some Maxima and Motul products for example). The esters have many properties that make them superior to the other two types, so that is my choice!

Amsoil is a group IV PAO synthetic. Yamalube is a petroleum oil, fortified with some type of synthetic (I don't think they tell us what type). My answer would be neither one! The Yamalube has to much petroleum in it, and while PAO's are excellent oils, the esters are even better!

My choice is Maxima Extra, ester based 100% synthetic. Maxima has the best additive package and film strength in the business. I have run it in everything, from the 90 to the 450 for many years...and my engines last forever and a day! 10W40 in our relatively mild winters and 15W50 in our very hot summers. http://www.maximausa.com/produ...e/maxum4synthextra.asp

http://www.maximausa.com/technical/l...beNews2002.pdf

Motul and Klotz also have ester synthetic oils that I would personally feel comfortable running.

 

If you decide to go with the Amsoil, I am not sure I would pick a 0W40 for a HOT California summer........

 

I spoke with the service department of both the Honda and the Yamaha dealers (both are diferent locations of OTDcyclesports) I bought the quads from and both said not to switch synthetic for the first oil change after break in. The Honda guy said since I am only riding weekends it would not be necessary to use synthetic at all. Yamaha guy said about the same.

The threads I read say never listen to the dealers, but what they say makes sense. I plan on changing my oil about once a month or so if I ride every weekend (I can only be so lucky). That can get expensive with synthetics, what is your take on what the dealers says?

**Edit** Also both said to use 10w-40 of what ever I choose.

 

I don't know about the Yamaha, but Honda has in the last few years been specing lighter weight oils. Just a couple of years ago if you bought a new Honda, the owner's manual had an oil chart that contained a full range of oil weights from 5W30 to 20W50.

Now, they have pared the list down, and my new Rancher even seems to suggest that 0W30 can be used as an all weather oil. I have to say that one whould have to be freaking nuts to run 0W30 in a So. Calif. summer! If one did run something that light, it had darn well better be the absolute best synthetic you can find!

I have an year 00 250EX, and year 06 250 EX as well. The same engine...yet one has the "new" oil chart, and the other has the "old" one. There is some speculation that Honda is doing this to improve its overall corporate fuel economy, just like the cars manufacturers did some years ago. Lots of folks feel that those changes were done at the expense of engine longevity, although car manufacturers did tighten their tolerances to accomodate the thinner oils.

http://www.machinerylubricatio...0Economy%20vs.%20Wear


There is an additional issue that relates to oil viscosity. All the new thumpers that have little skinny slipper pistons (your 700????), will experience a lot of compression blow by. This will result in a rapid contamination of the oil with fuel! This means that you need frequent oil changes, because your oil will get diluted quickly and experience a viscosity loss. That means that if you start a long day's ride with a 10W40 oil, you might end the day with a 0W20 oil! Try 0W20 on a hot summer day out at Calif. City......

So here, starting a with a thicker oil might be wise. Say you start out with 15W50, and end up with 10W40....well no big deal!

http://www.belray.com/scripts/...41d7-b921-64a4cf6d0144

 

0w40 amsoilIm an Amsoil dealer, If you dont have someone to order from let me know.

As for the oil, i just changed over to the amsoil 0w40 in my 07' trx420 rancher.


the trans shifts a lot smoother and some of the noise has gone away in the engine. also it idels smoother. I was also told not to use synthetic in my quad because it was not needed. but i am OCD about my stuff that is why i became a dealer for amsoil. 0w40 amsoil has the protection of a 5w50 with the pore capcity of 0w40. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] so that is a good thing even for you in cali.

just let me know if you want some. First order is at dealer costs.

 

It also helps if you understand how viscosity really works.

the first number in the designation is for start up. "0"w30 essentually means that the oil will pore much easier and will get to the hard wear parts (upper part of the motor) faster. this # can never really be to low no matter what climate you live in because even a "0" wXX is to think for any engine on start up. however in order to get higher second #'s the first # must go up to. so its always going to be win loose.

the second # 0w"30" is for operating temp viscosity, thicker oil does not mean more protecting what it means is higher oil pressure or less flow because it is harder to push, you want the oil to flow faster not slower and thicker.

i will try to find the article on how the oil really works.