Not here to debate the pros and cons of syn vs. dino oils, or the different brands of such. Was just interested in knowing how many are using syn oils and what type, weight and a good place to purchases it.
Noticed the local Napa store is now carrying Valvoline ATV oil in a dino 10W/40, but the dealer and owners manual are saying to use a 10W/30 and only carries the GN4 oil which I presume is a dino oil.
Have used syn oils in all my other vehicles for several years and am a firm believer in its superiority over dino oils, so was wishing to use it in my 420 rancher.
I am very aware of the API service and Jaso MA ratings.
Any suggestions?

 

I think you'll find most people are using one of the 10w-40 motorcycle oils in their ATVs just because these are about all that's been available with the JASO MA rating. In the winter months it may not be necessary to use 10w40 for it's increased heat protection over 10w30, but it's low temperature viscosity still matches that of 10w30 so it won't be a problem either. I've been using Castrol Act-Evo SAE 10w-40 4-stroke motorcycle oil, which is a blend with some good anti-wear synthetic ingredients, but less expensive than full synthetic, and I'm happy with it.

Cycle Gear sells it for $3.99 per liter(quart) plus shipping. I bought 6 liters, enough for 2 oil changes, and shipping was $6.00 bringing the cost to $5 each. My order was delivered promptly, shipped out of Southern Calif., and it is available on their website HERE.

 

Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40, for the last 4 years in all my bikes. With no wet clutch issues. Got an old owners manual on my kids Timberwolf, and it said 10w30, so I tried valvoline synthetic 10W-30 this fall. Seems to shift stiffer? I agree with the superiority of synthetics, but I have not subscirbed to a JASO motorcycle oil theory. Hey, for a couple $ difference if it gives one piece of mind, I would have no arguement.

 

GN4 is all i have have every used. never had a problem.

 

Blends are a rip off. the have 10-20% synthetic oil at best.

Synthetic Blends, also known as semi-synthetic, use mix of non-conventional oils in combination with conventional petroleum oil.

The "synthetic" content is usually less than 10% and sometimes as low as 2%.

What are the inherent problems ?

Synthetic Blends offer NO advantage to consumers as they are priced two to three times higher than petroleum, they however offer much greater profits to marketers as they are much less expensive to produce than fully synthetic oils.

What must be done ?

For dependable, long-lasting performance and long-term engine protection in all motor vehicles in all climatic conditions "semi-synthetic" oils also MUST be supplemented with "additives" which prolong the oil service life and reduce the wear to "acceptable" level.

Why is it used ?

Huge investments in advertising and promotion of Synthetics benefit the sales of Synthetic Blends as consumers do not realize that they are getting very little extra performance over petroleum at much higher per quart price.

Oil facts

 

TLC, good synthetic blends don't necessarily cost as much as you think, and still provide benefits over straight petroleum oils. As I stated in my previous post, I'm using Castrol Act-Evo SAE 10w-40 4-stroke motorcycle oil which doesn't cost much more than any petroleum motorcycle oil with the same 10w-40, JASO-MA rating. And it has improved the smoothness of shifting from 1st to 2nd gear which had been a little stiff at times with the original oil the Honda dealer put in. I assume this was GN4, but whatever it was the Castrol Act-Evo synthetic blend is better.

 

thanks for the information i needed to do an oil change and lately its been tricky to shift it maybe this is the problem.
im going with woodrats decision seems right for me

 

You know White, that was mainly the reason I started this thread. Was hoping someone would bring up this problem. I had complained to the dealer and he said that everything was normal and adjustment was right on.
So was hoping that the syn oil would help the hard shift.
Unless someone else comes up with a different oil or a solution to the hard shift, I think I will give the Castrol a try on the next change also. Now just have to find it.

 

I had been running Maxima Extra in everything for years, but recently switched to RedLine....which is also an ester synthetic. I know most folks in here will feel that both these oils are way to expensive. As for me, regardless of price I bought the best exhaust for my quad, the best air filter, the best tires, the best rims, etc., etc.....so why not the best oil????

http://www.redlineoil.com/prod...oil.asp?categoryID=11


Just ignore the fact that RedLine is JASO MB. The friction modifiers in it are synthetic and proprietary to RedLine, and will not make a wet clutch slip. JASO does not have a classification for this type of friction modifiers, so they have to call it MB. RedLine says there may very well be a JASO MC classification in the future to account for this!!! Subjectively, I do notice a little increase in horsepower when running RedLine, although I have not verified this on the dino.

My Ranchers get ridden mostly at very high altitude where it is cool during summer, and extremely cold in winter. I run 10W40 in summer, and 10W30 in winter. I would love to see RedLine come out with a 5W30 for colder weather, and a 0W30 for extreme cold! (In the mean time, I might just run Maxima Ultra 0W30 in extreme cold weather?????)

My Rancher shifts just fine, although it can be a bit stif when it is stone cold.

 

this is a little off topic but i thought it would be better to ask it here then make a new topic (correct me if im wrong).
after i drive my 420 and park it it makes a noise like tick.....tick....tick till it cools down a while it soulds like somethings dropping down and hitting a peice of metal but its not it sounds like it is from the exhaust could it be the oil? it didnt do this new but its time for an oil change its got stock oil in it still.