Centrifugal Clutch question??
#11
Reading your last again, you got code 5, replaced angle sensor, then dash blinks...
I think I'd try doing the inital setting procedure again.
It says to start it in N and let it warm up, put it in D and move it slowly 5 feet (skip this if yours doesn't move), put it back in N and shut it off.
Turn it back on while pushing UP and DOWN at the same time, then immediately release both. Then push and release UP, then DOWN, then UP. It should display solid --, then you have 10 seconds to move throttle from fully closed, to full open, and back to full closed. (I presume it learns the range of ohms from that particular throttle position sensor).
You should also hear the shift motor run through it's range, presumably so the ECM can learn the range of the angle sensor. Then the -- should turn to N.
It also looks like you can put it into mode 2 where it displays diagnostic codes, and hold UP and DOWN for 3 seconds or more to clear old fault codes (like the angle sensor that you've hopefully repaired).
I think I'd try doing the inital setting procedure again.
It says to start it in N and let it warm up, put it in D and move it slowly 5 feet (skip this if yours doesn't move), put it back in N and shut it off.
Turn it back on while pushing UP and DOWN at the same time, then immediately release both. Then push and release UP, then DOWN, then UP. It should display solid --, then you have 10 seconds to move throttle from fully closed, to full open, and back to full closed. (I presume it learns the range of ohms from that particular throttle position sensor).
You should also hear the shift motor run through it's range, presumably so the ECM can learn the range of the angle sensor. Then the -- should turn to N.
It also looks like you can put it into mode 2 where it displays diagnostic codes, and hold UP and DOWN for 3 seconds or more to clear old fault codes (like the angle sensor that you've hopefully repaired).
#12
well i replaced the angle sensor, then i got a new ecm......so if it was in fact the angle sensor i wouldnt have to delete the codes because the new ecm didnt have them stored in there....
i didnt mention that i took the bike to the garage and and they told me it wasnt electrical... i didnt really believe them because i thought they were just trying to sucker me into to a big repair bill
so i replace the ecm after that.....and i still got errors....
thats why i was thinking it was a mechanical part....
i didnt mention that i took the bike to the garage and and they told me it wasnt electrical... i didnt really believe them because i thought they were just trying to sucker me into to a big repair bill
so i replace the ecm after that.....and i still got errors....
thats why i was thinking it was a mechanical part....
#16
Also what i found to be interesting and I don't know how accurate it all is but when i bought the bike the owner told me that he was just drivin along and it wouldnt shift.... he shut if off and let it sit for a little while...... started it back up and then ran till it got home...... once he shut if off there it wouldnt shift at all and he started getting the blinking "--"
so i dont know how accurate that story is but thats why they guy sold it.....
so i dont know how accurate that story is but thats why they guy sold it.....
#17
I posted how to do the initial setting a few posts up...
It says to start it in N and let it warm up, put it in D and move it slowly 5 feet (skip this if yours doesn't move), put it back in N and shut it off.
Turn it back on while pushing UP and DOWN at the same time, then immediately release both. Then push and release UP, then DOWN, then UP. It should display solid --, then you have 10 seconds to move throttle from fully closed, to full open, and back to full closed. (I presume it learns the range of ohms from that particular throttle position sensor).
You should also hear the shift motor run through it's range, presumably so the ECM can learn the range of the angle sensor. Then the -- should turn to N.
It says to start it in N and let it warm up, put it in D and move it slowly 5 feet (skip this if yours doesn't move), put it back in N and shut it off.
Turn it back on while pushing UP and DOWN at the same time, then immediately release both. Then push and release UP, then DOWN, then UP. It should display solid --, then you have 10 seconds to move throttle from fully closed, to full open, and back to full closed. (I presume it learns the range of ohms from that particular throttle position sensor).
You should also hear the shift motor run through it's range, presumably so the ECM can learn the range of the angle sensor. Then the -- should turn to N.
#19
Well... I'm not sure. I'd be hesitant to replace the hondamatic transmission when the dash is apparently indicating an electronic problem...
Hopefully one of the experts on rubicon transmissions wil chime in?
Hopefully one of the experts on rubicon transmissions wil chime in?


