Gear position sensor is over kind of by the pull start handle. Has 4p connector and held on by 2 bolts on tabs kind of angled like 120 degrees from each other... You have the factory service manual?

It wouldln't explain the "skips 2nd" though.

Anyway, even if the garage claimed they checked the wiring, I think it wouldn't hurt anything to take an ohm meter and check the up/down switches and check the gear position switch (as described above), and check the wiring between those connectors and the ECM connector for continuity and for shorts to ground...

I kind of don't think that's the problem, but all you would loose by checking is a few minutes of your time.

Also, thank you both, Honda Mechanic and Gimpster, for coming over to help.

 

Just as long as you are not holding the brake and starting it with the gear shifter in "D", "L" or "R" position. The unit will start this way but the ECM will be in default mode. If this is the case, the unit will act like it is taking off in a higher gear as it is in limp in mode. If the gear position switch is bad, although the shifter is in the neutral position, It may be showing the ECM a different gear than Neutral, hence having to hold the brakes to get it started, and it would explain the troubles you have described. The connector for the gear position switch is inside of the right rear fender well, foreward of the wheel, on the frame. There is a round connector on the frame rail bracket that includes 3 solid yellow wires routing in and out of it (Stator connector) then the next one foreward should be a 4 pin connector. That is the gear position connector. In order to pull it apart, trip the connector holder tab near the frame tab, slide it off the tab then unclip the connector and pull it apart. look inside the male end of the connection. Check if the 4 female pins inside of it are corroded. And also check the female end of the connector, check for corrosion on the male pins inside. This connection is where a lot of issues with earlier Rubicons lies. Water gets into this connector off the rear tire or when the user pressure washes inside the fenderwell. It is just a mater of time for the corrosion to take over from there and wierd out the electrical system. If the connectors look clean, ring our bell again and we can point you in the right direction for checking out the gear position switch per wire color and gear position to see if the switch is bad. The gear position sender is between the rear swingarm drive pivot boot and the recoil on the rear of the engine. 2 bolts hold it on (10mm head) one bendable wireholder under the recoil and one plastic loop holder on the right side of the recoil, then one on the framerail below the connector holder, are what need to be unclipped to remove the gear position sender's wire harness. If the gear position sender is to be replaced, take note of the cross pin's position on the housing of the gear position switch. It is offset and the longer of the ends needs to point to the "N" mark stamped in the sender's housing.



----- Gimpster -----.

 

You guys have no idea how much i appreciate the overwhelming amount of help and input everyone has given..... for that THANK YOU!!!!

secondly.... in order to tell continuity....... can you kind of walk me through it..... i have an ohm meter but not exactly sure how to use it and what to eb looking for...... kinds of a simple question but it would help me a ton!!!!

then i can get back to you and see if there is any broken wires or anything like that!!!

THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!

 

Basically, if you want to test continuity you could put the meter in the 1x ohm mode. If you touch the probes together you should get 0 ohms, and if they are apart it should be infinite. Checking continuity through wiring and a switch it might read a fraction of an ohm...

I'm really thinking it could be worth while to check the gear position switch. From what Gimpster is saying if it isn't giving the ECM a proper reading when in N, that could put the thing in limp mode...

 

Hey Guys.... hope everyone had a nice holiday...... and with all that extra time I was just thikin..... which only formed more questions....

I havent finished checkin all the wiring... but i recalled that when i had the crank case off i was looking at the clutch...... and i noticed that there was what looked like a burn ring around the outside ring that surrounded the clutch..... It looked the same way steel does whenever it is heated really hot..... it looked discolored and heated right in the center...... I was just wondering if that was normal and if that had anything to do with it not wanted to move????

Thanks again guys!!!!