Yeah, that's exactly what the book says. Turn it off and back on, and read the code again. If still 9 try new ECM...

 

Thanks guys! ... Hmm .. not a lot of code 9's.

OK, is there a good resource for replacement ECM's? .... Noticed they don't list the part on any of the on-line resource houses.

I'll check with my local Honda dealer as well .... Tried to clear the code but no luck, still flashes the 9x.

 

Excuse my terminology ignorance .... but is an "ECM" the same as the "CDI control unit"?
My local dealer dealers says the Rubcion doesn't list an "ECM"

$189.00 sound about right? .......... Thanks!

 

The ECM (Engine Control Module) controls the ignition, so I'd guess they are talking about the same part.

 

Update .......

1) Replaced the ECM (CDI) controller.

Started her up & immediately, the gauge stopped flashing, went into all modes D1, D2 & ESP properly ..... Drove in reverse as new.

5-minutes goes by ....... gauge started blinking once more, problematic symptons returned as before!

Retreived trouble code ...... Gone from a code 9 now to 11.

Now what? ....... Did I just fry a brand new $180.00 CDI unit? ...... Ugh!

Any ideas?

 

Did you do the initilization thing when you put the new ECM in?

 

Yes ... That's when everything started to go bad.

All ran perfectly after installing the new ECM .... Then I began the reinitiallation procees as suggested per repair manual to be sure all is set & clear.
The break-down didn't happen all at once, the symptoms slowly began to show one by one.
Dash started flashing ......... Then gears started to slip & grind ... Engine then began sputtering when in reverse.
Seemed like it all started to go bad soon as the engine started warming up.
It had ran perfectly for about 5-minutes from a cold start.

Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire? ........ I did hear the shift motor move upon the first attempt at the reinitiallization process ... Then all went silent & couldn't repeat the process.

Thanks once more for any ideas ..........

 

I just posted on the other thread about 11...

11 is ECM motor driver circuit. Book says likely cause is ECM, but later it gives some things to try first.

It says to check the 5p connector on the ECM and the 2p connector on the motor.

It then says to pull the 5P ecm connector and check voltage between red/yellow wire and ground. If less than 11, bad wire between ecm and battery.

Then check for continuity between the green terminal and ground. If none, bad ground wire.

Then disconnect both the 5P and motor 2P connectors and check for continuity between the two connectors. If one is open, bad wire somewhere.

It then says to check for continuity between the 2 pins on the motor side to see if it's abnormal, but it doesn't say what normal is. Usually a person would expect a few ohms on an electric motor. You could probably pull it and apply voltage across the pins to make sure it spins.

Then it says to connect everything back up and turn it on. No error code= temporary problem that went away. Still getting 11 means bad ECM. Replace and do the initilization thing.

Anyway, that's what the book says. Maybe Gimpster will give us some other ideas.

 

Thanks for the response & further information!

Well, I traced it out this evening to a blown fuse which supplies the ECM power.
Yes indeed, it was the red/yellow wire on the 5-pin harness which needs the 12-volts DC.

Now it gets interesting ..... Its a 30-amp fuse going directly to the ECM!.
I replaced the fuse hoping it would all go away but no luck.
Same thing, turned the key ... No flashing lights .. All back to normal.
Started up the machine, all looked good .... Shifted properly through the gears including reverse. All modes, D1, D2 & ESP ran fine.

10-minutes later ...... wouldn't shift ... gauge started blinking once more.
Checked the 30-amp fuse ..... Blown again!
Now, it definately looks like something is drawing some serious current.

Does the ECM supply direct power to the shift motor per chance? (not through a switched relay of sorts) .... I can't think of anything else (other than a dead short) that would draw such a heavy current. I'll pull the shift drive motor out tomorrow yet not knowing how much it should normally draw when engaged may be useless.

Unfortunately the problem seems to be associated with heat & may not show up till I warm-up the machine.
It seems to be stable when cold.

If nothing else, it looks as though I didn't fry the new ECM .... Which leaves me wondering if this still may still be the problem... What if it has an internal short?

Is this even possible?

Gimpster .... Any further ideas on what to possibly look for?

 

Interesting... I'd be taking a real close look at every bit of the wiring harness, looking for any sign of something pinchced or burnt. I also wonder if there could be a bad winding in the motor, and if it happens to stop with the brushes on a certain part of the commutator...

Probably best to wait for an expert (Gimpster) to chime in...