<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: WoodRat

Reconranger, I admire your persistence in telling these people over and over again about the oil and other issues. It would be nice if the administrators of this site would do something to make it easier for newcomers to find these topics which have been hashed over so many times.



To their credit the search function provided does allow one to find these topics with persistence, but it could be so much easier. Anyone listening? How about an FAQ link denoting topics in descending order of relevancy to query? An SQL script would do it, but is this compatible with Cold Fusion(this site is cfm)? ... just a suggestion.</end quote></div>

I agree ,they should have a "sticky" about oil facts somewhere because everyone needs oil in there ATV.
And those are good links he found.

 

I always buy my oil based on price, As long as it meets the minimum requirements set out by the manufacturer. Autozone old car oil works just fine, and its much less than 2 bucks a quart. Its the correct SF rating, and no moly. Never had an issue with it, and you can buy either 10w 30 or 10w 40. If it wasnt good enough, it wouldnt be able to wear the SAE label. My hondas state "API SF or SG oil, with no moly". Why spend more, if its unnecesary?
Do you do the same thing with gasoline? Remember how they used to market the different brands of gasoline....and now they dont. Thats becasue we all know that the gasoline comes from one refinery, in your local area, and there is extremely small differences in gas, and quality. Everyone buys by price, once the scam is exposed, and products become comodities.
I still have a hard time with the way Americans buy into marketing and branding, especially when theres no evidence to support, that you get more protection or longer life by spending more. We been sold to and lied to all our lives, by the marketing and sales people.....dont buy into it.
I know of quads which have 15 year old oil in them, never been changed, they are run alot, and abused more. Those motors are still running just fine. If someone can show a study, or information....showing how spending more...gets you more, Id be happy to read about it. Im not talking sales or marketing hype, but cold hard facts, from an unbiased, scientific standpoint.
I second the idea of having a FAQ area.

 

hondabuster those are some excellent points. i have resisted for years all the hype around synthetic oil. i am not bashing it, i simply grew up without it and always use the min requirements i am allowed to use. now what i do is change my oil religiously. i never missed a schedule maintenance. not in my atv's, mobotbikes, or autos.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>I always buy my oil based on price</end quote></div>

You have to consider also full synthetic has properties break down slower so oil changes go further. Cheap Dinosaurs oil may need changing at 50 hr while synthetic will last 80 hr.

I was at Wally World and a quart of Full sythectic "Mobile1" sell for under $4,so its well worth it.

 

If you go on sites like BITOG, there are lots of UOA junkies in there. The trouble with a UOA is it is designed to tell you something about your engine, not your oil. Oil needs to be tested under carefully controlled laboratory conditions. What happened in some other guys (clapped out) engine, doesn't mean much compared to yours!

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: TLC

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>I always buy my oil based on price</end quote></div>



You have to consider also full synthetic has properties break down slower so oil changes go further. Cheap Dinosaurs oil may need changing at 50 hr while synthetic will last 80 hr.



I was at Wally World and a quart of Full sythectic "Mobile1" sell for under $4,so its well worth it.</end quote></div>

I believe that quart of Mobile 1, has moly in it, so I wouldnt consider it for wet clutches. Any oil with the energy conserving star burst symbol on the label, has moly added.

 

Mobil 1 "car" oil from Wally World probably contains a fair amount of moly, but their JASO MA 4T motorcycle oil is safe for a wet clutch.

Note that there are different types of "moly". Molebdenum disulfide is the type that will make a clutch slip, but molybdenum-dialkyldithiocarbamate will not. VOA's may not distinguish between these two....so don't get mislead.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: reconranger

Mobil 1 "car" oil from Wally World probably contains a fair amount of moly, but their JASO MA 4T motorcycle oil is safe for a wet clutch.



Note that there are different types of "moly". Molebdenum disulfide is the type that will make a clutch slip, but molybdenum-dialkyldithiocarbamate will not. VOA's may not distinguish between these two....so don't get mislead.</end quote></div>


Is the Molile 1
JASO MA 4T more exspensive?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: reconranger

If you go on sites like BITOG, there are lots of UOA junkies in there. The trouble with a UOA is it is designed to tell you something about your engine, not your oil. Oil needs to be tested under carefully controlled laboratory conditions. What happened in some other guys (clapped out) engine, doesn't mean much compared to yours!</end quote></div>



There is some truth to what you say, but if the oil is not performing the UAO would suck. I find a UAO more objective than specialty Oil marketing hype. Is there evidence of an oil related engine failure from using PCMO or HDEO instead of motorcycle oil when proper viscosity and change interval are followed? Maybe a race bike?

 

Mobil 1 Racing 4T is a POA based oil, JASO MA, and about $10/quart around here. For that price, I would run Maxima Extra instead, which is an ester synthetic and superior to any PAO. I personally run Redline, which is even more expensive.

More info on the different types of synthetics: http://www.p1-performance.com/pdf/oildoc.pdf