Oil change
#1
I have a 2007 Honda TRX250EX and 2007 Recon. I want to change the oil and like to know what you guys use? I have to clean the air filters also. What oil do you use for the air filters?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
I'd recommend going with the Honda filter. If the machines aren't fully broken in, I'd run a good dino oil, like Honda's GN4, or something similar in the weight recommended in your owner's manual for the temp range you ride in.
It likely calls for oil with an API rating of SG or higher, plus JASO T 903 standard MA. If the machines are fully broken in, you might choose to run a good synthetic, but don't use anything with Moly or Teflon (PTFE).
On many Hondas the oil filter element can be installed upside down, which will block all oil flow to the motor (with predictable results) so be sure to get it in right.
Air fliter wise, I really like Pro-Honda's bio oil foam filter system. You have to get the factory petrolium based filter oil out with kerosene or diesel fuel the first time, then soapy water. Once it's fully dried, put the filter in a big ziplock storage bag along with some filter oil, and work it in. Let the filter stand in the air for like 15 minutes, use the provided sealing grease around the opening and reinstall. Once you have changed over, future filter cleanings are done with just water and the provided powdered soap, that removes the bio-filter oil very quickly and easily.
If you go that route, be sure to mark on the air box lid that it has bio-oil on it. Though the bio-0il comes out easily with the special soap, if you try to use a solvent as you would for regular filter oil it will make a mess...
Anyway, don't forget to check the valve lash while you are doing your service. Also, if you are going to do your own work (which saves a lot of money) you might invest in a facotory service manual for each of your machines.
Have fun.
Jeff
P.S. As far as a recommendation for the best synthetic for the price, if ReconRanger doesn't post to this, you might PM and ask him. He's pretty up to speed on that stuff.
It likely calls for oil with an API rating of SG or higher, plus JASO T 903 standard MA. If the machines are fully broken in, you might choose to run a good synthetic, but don't use anything with Moly or Teflon (PTFE).
On many Hondas the oil filter element can be installed upside down, which will block all oil flow to the motor (with predictable results) so be sure to get it in right.
Air fliter wise, I really like Pro-Honda's bio oil foam filter system. You have to get the factory petrolium based filter oil out with kerosene or diesel fuel the first time, then soapy water. Once it's fully dried, put the filter in a big ziplock storage bag along with some filter oil, and work it in. Let the filter stand in the air for like 15 minutes, use the provided sealing grease around the opening and reinstall. Once you have changed over, future filter cleanings are done with just water and the provided powdered soap, that removes the bio-filter oil very quickly and easily.
If you go that route, be sure to mark on the air box lid that it has bio-oil on it. Though the bio-0il comes out easily with the special soap, if you try to use a solvent as you would for regular filter oil it will make a mess...
Anyway, don't forget to check the valve lash while you are doing your service. Also, if you are going to do your own work (which saves a lot of money) you might invest in a facotory service manual for each of your machines.
Have fun.
Jeff
P.S. As far as a recommendation for the best synthetic for the price, if ReconRanger doesn't post to this, you might PM and ask him. He's pretty up to speed on that stuff.
#3
Good oil reads: http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html
First off, you asked what we use....I run Redline MC oil. It is ester synthetic, but also very expensive. I absolutely love this stuff, but I am an oil conoseuir! http://www.redlineoil.com/prod...ryID=25&categoryID=11
If you pick a motorcycle specific oil that is API SG/JASO MA, you won't go far wrong. Beyond that, if the synthetics are superior to plain old petroleum oil, and the ester synthetics are superior to the other two types of synthetics. http://www.p1-performance.com/pdf/oildoc.pdf
If you are on a budget, I would recommend Maxima Premium or Blend (Maxima has an awesome additive package!). If you want a great synthetic, Maxima, Motul, and Klotz all make ester based oils...but again they are expensive. If you can't find anything else, Honda HP4 (without moly) is a good choice. I have never been a big fan of Honda GN4.
As for air filters, I clean them with PJ1 and reoil them with Maxima FFT.
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html
First off, you asked what we use....I run Redline MC oil. It is ester synthetic, but also very expensive. I absolutely love this stuff, but I am an oil conoseuir! http://www.redlineoil.com/prod...ryID=25&categoryID=11
If you pick a motorcycle specific oil that is API SG/JASO MA, you won't go far wrong. Beyond that, if the synthetics are superior to plain old petroleum oil, and the ester synthetics are superior to the other two types of synthetics. http://www.p1-performance.com/pdf/oildoc.pdf
If you are on a budget, I would recommend Maxima Premium or Blend (Maxima has an awesome additive package!). If you want a great synthetic, Maxima, Motul, and Klotz all make ester based oils...but again they are expensive. If you can't find anything else, Honda HP4 (without moly) is a good choice. I have never been a big fan of Honda GN4.
As for air filters, I clean them with PJ1 and reoil them with Maxima FFT.
#4
Im very satisfied with Amsoil oil in all my bikes, accept my 2 strokes. I run Klotz Super techniplate oil in them. 80% synthetic 20% castor bean oil, love that hint of castor burn without all the gunk that comes with running full castor bean oil. But thats two strokes, nobody rides them anymore. I feel like a grandpa at 22 talking about the good ole days even though most of the bikes were made around when I was born..
#5
I also subscribe to the theory that synthetics do provide better protection. I'm also a fan of Redline products and run their stuff in my AAM's.
With a quad, though, I think contamination, rather than breakdown of the oil, is what limits it's useful life. As long as you run something rated SG & MA and change it frequently, synthetic or not, I suspect you will see a very long life out of those two machines without any oil related failures.
That being said, I'm running HP4 right now. Next change, if I get my act together to get oil ordered ahead of time, I'll probably switch to the Redline stuff.
Anyway, enjoy the EX and the Recon. With basic care, both of those machines should run practically forever.
With a quad, though, I think contamination, rather than breakdown of the oil, is what limits it's useful life. As long as you run something rated SG & MA and change it frequently, synthetic or not, I suspect you will see a very long life out of those two machines without any oil related failures.
That being said, I'm running HP4 right now. Next change, if I get my act together to get oil ordered ahead of time, I'll probably switch to the Redline stuff.
Anyway, enjoy the EX and the Recon. With basic care, both of those machines should run practically forever.
#7
Hmmm... I don't know. If I recall correctly MA certification means that it provides a level of friction to keep wet clutches from slipping, where MB doesn't...
Maybe ReconRanger will chime in.
Maybe ReconRanger will chime in.
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#9
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: CGG
Thanks for the great information.
I was looking at the Red Line oil, it is listed as JASO MB, the book calls for JASO MA. Is the red line oil ok to use?
Thanks again.</end quote></div>
Ok, this will take some explanation! Redline contains proprietary synthetic organic friction modifiers....that do not effect a wet clutch. Nobody else has these, and nobody will for some time unless they license them from Redline or reverse engineer them. JASO has no classification for these types of molecules, so the oil has to be called MB even though it is just fine for a wet clutch. There very well may be a JASO MC category coming in the future, to account for these types of friction modifiers!
I am seeing a horsepower/performance/fuel efficiency increase with Redline, and I attribute it to these organic friction modifiers. For me, this makes it worth the extra money I have to pay for the oil. I get mine from http://247-parts.com/view_cat_...html?cat_l1=2&cat_l2=4
Thanks for the great information.
I was looking at the Red Line oil, it is listed as JASO MB, the book calls for JASO MA. Is the red line oil ok to use?
Thanks again.</end quote></div>
Ok, this will take some explanation! Redline contains proprietary synthetic organic friction modifiers....that do not effect a wet clutch. Nobody else has these, and nobody will for some time unless they license them from Redline or reverse engineer them. JASO has no classification for these types of molecules, so the oil has to be called MB even though it is just fine for a wet clutch. There very well may be a JASO MC category coming in the future, to account for these types of friction modifiers!
I am seeing a horsepower/performance/fuel efficiency increase with Redline, and I attribute it to these organic friction modifiers. For me, this makes it worth the extra money I have to pay for the oil. I get mine from http://247-parts.com/view_cat_...html?cat_l1=2&cat_l2=4
#10
I diddo the Amsoil post, I change my oil and filter only yearly with Amsoil 10W40 motorcycle oil.
My oldest bike a 1991 XR250R was given to me as a 17th birthday gift at $2800.00 new It was run hard over the last decade and I am now 32 years old and the bike is still in the garage of my new home, doesn't burn a drop of oil and fires up on the first kick. No engine work done to this day!
Cleaning and oiling the air filter properly- with geese on the sealing edge of the filter also played a large role in the perfect engine condition of this bike.
Joe
My oldest bike a 1991 XR250R was given to me as a 17th birthday gift at $2800.00 new It was run hard over the last decade and I am now 32 years old and the bike is still in the garage of my new home, doesn't burn a drop of oil and fires up on the first kick. No engine work done to this day!
Cleaning and oiling the air filter properly- with geese on the sealing edge of the filter also played a large role in the perfect engine condition of this bike.
Joe


