I just bought it and have a couple of questions. Right now it seems to be running rich and fouling plugs. I bought a new one and it ran great for a little bit but then it slowly started losing rpm's. I ran some seafom through it but didn't seem to help. I see there are 2 mixture screws on the side of the carb, can anyone tell me the proper way to adjust. What kind and weight of oil should I run? I unscrewed the dipstick and oil was to the top of the hole, to much I'm guessing and it needs changed. This thing has sat in my friends garage for at least a year.

 

Does the oil smell like gas? It could have been an overflowing carb which filled the crankcase....happens alot. The fuel valve on th egas tank needs to be left in the off position, whenever the motor is gonna be off for more than an hour or so.
One screw is an idle speed screw, and it mechanicly moves the slide up and down on a ramped area. The other is the mixture screw, and it should be somewhere around 2 turns out from lightly bottomed....to start. And then adjusted from there, once the motor is warmed up. But 2 turns out should allow it to warm up. For now...just adjust it for best idle quality.
If its an air cooled motor...its 10w 40 weight, and should be a motorcycle specific oil. It should say JASO A on the container. Automobile oils wont be good enough...they have moly added (which wet clutches arent compatable with), and they dont have any zinc or phosporus added ( which are the high pressure lubes for meshing gears).
Check the air filter, if its dirty, itll run rich. If its a foam filter, it needs to be washed in solvent and reoiled.

 

I cant run the air cleaner at all it chokes it down to much and it wont hardly run. I ran some more sea foam through it and now letting it sit for and hour or 2. Im thinking possibly a needle and seat issue if it has one. At least thats where I'd go next if it were a carburated car or truck. It seems to have good spark, and when it is getting ready to run out of gas the rpm's really climb and it runs great for about 30 sec. And yes the oil smells like gas. I dont know if this matters but I dont have the original tank on it, the guy I bought it from threw it away because of a hole. I welded up a new one out of sheetmetal. It was very clean and I pressure tested it.

 

I know this is kind of like resurrecting something from the dead, but I got one of these just yesterday, all the plastic on it is practically a goner but it runs. Now the question at hand here is if the crankcase and gearbox share the same oil? Do I just need to fill it up to the correct level on the dipstick and it's all set to go? Looks like quite a neat machine, plenty of power but it seems to run lean and doesn't quite want to go back to idle so I suppose a little carb cleaning and tweaking would be good... Brake cables are gone too and the rear brake sets if you try to roll the machine rearwards but I don't think this will be a problem for me... Best part is that I got it for free and then you just can't be picky, right?

 

yes, the oil is shared with the engine and transmission.

 

Neat to know, then I've filled oil at the correct place.
Just one more question, which of the two screws on the carburetor adjusts idling speed? One is for mixture and one for idle, I'd like to know which one does what before I disassemble the thing...

Edit:
While I'm at it, does anyone here know if the brake shoes for the rear brake can be replaced with parts from another model/make or from Honda's motorcycle or moped line?