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2008 honda rancher oil change

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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 11:11 AM
  #11  
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TLC
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God forbid he lets the polishing secret out!
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Even on equal terms a 10w-30 Full synthetic will flow,last and hold out longer then a 10w-30 conventional oil due to its superior uniform molecules and proprieties. Side-by-side comparison of Synthetic vs Conventional Mineral / Petrolium oil

Equally as important, petroleum oil molecules, as contrasted to uniform-sized synthetic oil molecules, vary significantly in size, shape and length. When your engine heats up, the smaller molecules evaporate, while the larger ones tend to oxidize and become engine deposits. As a result, refined petroleum lubricating products differ widely in their overall quality and performance. The presence of and the resulting drawbacks of these undesirable constituent elements lie at the very root of the considerable performance differences between synthetic and petroleum based motor oils."

Its one thing to say use 10w-40 not 5w-30 but when its 10w-40 conventional vs 5w-30 synthetic the rules have changed altogether.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 12:09 PM
  #12  
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I guess I am more stun'd for the simple fact that he just dumped in 3 quarts of oil and can't understand how to read the dip-stick. The 420 doesn't take quite 3 quarts. 2 quarts and 22 oz's if you change the filter. Doesn't anybody read their owners manual......."cause you wheren't using your dip-stick; Jimmy"
 
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 04:12 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by HondaMechanic

@honda mechanic.

Concerning a 2009 honda rancher efi/PS. This is a little different than the previous ranchers, or a foreman.

Concerning the oil type & weight. The efi has an engine temperature sensor which when cool (within a certain temp range) will inject more fuel into the engine, much like a choke on a carb type, or the Suzuki fast idle circuit.

Unless i really push my rancher to get "hot" the efi stays stuck on (so to speak) choke. Even on idle it's getting about 5 mpg.

165km has used up 6.5 tanks of gas. Mostly on gravel roads.

Once the engine gets quite hot the MPG jumps to 25+mpg. However when i mean work i mean an insane amount of work to get that choke to disengage. My rad fan does come on often for even a little travel on a gravel road if i drive under thrid gear.

I am about to change my oil, and i am wondering if i have an oil problem that won't trip that sensor properly.

Any thoughts?
 
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