cold start up
#1
I was woundering if yall were having the same problem with yall honda. Mine seems real cold natured when i go to start it up. It takes it about 5 min or so to warm up. And then it runs fine after that. mines a 2007 foreman s
#2
I know I have a 2007 400ex, which is air cooled, and it is truly cold blooded. It takes about 5-10 minutes to warm up on a decent day (60's outside). Just let it warm up, so you don't ruin anything inside due to improper warm-up. I wouldn't worry about it to much, but if you start noticing other signs, then look into it more. Hope I could help!
#5
My Foreman will start first try and keep running (with choke) in cold weather, but I've seen other Rubicons and Foremans (and 650 Rincons) that were more cold blooded. Seemingly identical machines can be a little different.
They are jetted on the lean side. Bumping the idle mixture a touch might help.
Though my particular Foreman runs well cold, having EFI like on the 420 Rancher and 680 Rincon is nice...
They are jetted on the lean side. Bumping the idle mixture a touch might help.
Though my particular Foreman runs well cold, having EFI like on the 420 Rancher and 680 Rincon is nice...
#6
Another thing that helps cold starts is running the proper weight oil in cold weather. Most folks throw in a 10W40 and figure it is an all weather/year round oil. But when the weather turns colder, a 10W30, 5W30, or even a 0W30 would be a better choice. See the chart in your owner's manual!
Most folks don't appreciate that most engine wear actually occurs on a cold startup! Plus a winter weight oil will be thinner, so it pumps easier, and won't bog your crank down.
I always prefer an ester based synthetic oil (Redline, or Maxima Extra/Ultra/530MX), because they pump easily at low temps, and the molecules are charged like little magnets so they stick to metal surfaces and that gives you a layer of extra protection on a cold start.
Most folks don't appreciate that most engine wear actually occurs on a cold startup! Plus a winter weight oil will be thinner, so it pumps easier, and won't bog your crank down.
I always prefer an ester based synthetic oil (Redline, or Maxima Extra/Ultra/530MX), because they pump easily at low temps, and the molecules are charged like little magnets so they stick to metal surfaces and that gives you a layer of extra protection on a cold start.
#7
Is a good thing to let all motor warm up before riding. The motor oil flows better when warm so all ATV need there warm up period no matter if its EFI.
Just because a motor will cold start easily does not mean its a good idea to run around right away with thick cold curculating oil.
Just because a motor will cold start easily does not mean its a good idea to run around right away with thick cold curculating oil.
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#9
25hrs is good for the first breaking change after that change it about every 50 hrs. Do the front and rear diff gear oil also they may get a little bit of metal filings as the gears wear to each other on the initial break in.
#10
Do NOT neglect your first valve adjustment, which should be done at around 20 hours, just after the engine is completely broken in!
Don't rejet yet if you think you will soon be doing any modifications to the engine, like the intake, exhaust, and airbox. If you want to stick with the stock setup, you might get away with just adjusting the air/fuel screw to richen it up a little on the low end. Also, a fatter pilot/idle jet might help too. Thing is, they are lean on the top end as well, so a full rejet might just be in order.....
Don't rejet yet if you think you will soon be doing any modifications to the engine, like the intake, exhaust, and airbox. If you want to stick with the stock setup, you might get away with just adjusting the air/fuel screw to richen it up a little on the low end. Also, a fatter pilot/idle jet might help too. Thing is, they are lean on the top end as well, so a full rejet might just be in order.....


