Greetings! I have an idling issue with my new (used) 2007 Honda Recon I just purchased. I picked it up on Saturday and it is actually a low use machine, judging from my probing questions to the original owner as well as its physical appearance. The issue I have is the idle is a little rough and I have what I think to be light deceleration backfire. I first cleaned the machine and changed all fluids. Drained and added new treated gas and put in a new plug. The old plug was light tan-ish in color. Once the machine is warm It dies idle a little better without stalling much but it still is a bit rough. Turning up the idle didn’t do too much. In addition it still has a slight deceleration pop or backfire. All this tells me it may be running a little lean. I don’t know where the fuel/air mixture screw is at, but I’ve read it may take a special wrench to adjust it. (Can anyone tell me where this fuel/air mixture screw is at?) What I’m also wondering is, would you suggest I lower the clip on the needed to give it a little more gas rather than jack with the air/fuel mixture screw?? Thanks for all your help guys!!!!

 

We always get these same symptoms in posts, over and over again! Classic case of a clogged pilot jet, on a "low use" machine! No doubt it sat and the fuel dried up in the cab and turned to varnish.

The clogged jet is making you lean overall (hence the backfire), along with fuel starvation at idle. Clean the carb, and pay particular attention to the pilot jet. Better yet, jets are cheap...just replace it. Don't go messing with the fuel screw or anything else on the carb, until you have first eliminated the pilot jet as the problem. Chances are really high that that is it. They are jetted lean at the factory to meet emissions, so at some point you might want to fatten it up a little (give it more fuel).

Note that these can also be symptoms of a leak in the air filter/intake, so also be sure that isn't your problem instead.

Most folks totally neglect valve adjustments. Chances are that the previous owner did, so be sure that it gets done right away!

Get a service manual! You will learn an incredible amount, just paging through it.

 

I'll pull the carb and give it a good cleaning this weekend with some NAPA carb cleaner I have on hand (unless you suggest something else). I do not think I'll be able to replace the jet this weekend since my Honda dealer carries such a low parts inventory (they didn't even have an air filter on hand for this thing) so I'll clean the jet that's in it and give it a whirl.
If anyone has a good place to get a service manual that would be helpful. I can get a Clymer manual for about $40. How does this compare to the Honda service manual. Is it as good?
Any other suggestions on my idle issues would also help.
Thanks again for all your help!!!!

 

Most folks clean a carb by spraying some cleaner around, but never even find the pilot jet, so the problem doesn't go away.

 

When I cleaned the carb on my polaris I took it pretty well apart and squirted in every orifice I could find. It almost seems there is more parts and orifices in this carb. Can i easily remove the idle jet to clean it? Any tips on cleaning the "Valve Assy. Air cut" listed in the parts diagram for this carb? Any other tips before I tackle this would be helpful. Thanks again guys!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Go ahead and soak the carb but remove all rubber components. Since you have rebuilt carbs before, I'm sure you know this.
Then after it's put together and you are satisfied with the way it performs, run some Seafoam through the fuel system. That stuff keeps my "under" used atvs in great running condition.

As for a service manual....go ahead and spend some more money and get a factory service manual for the Recon if you intend to keep it long term and work on it. While Clymer manuals are okay, a factory service manual is a heck of a lot more informative!

I bought one for my Rubicon at Helms. Here is what you need for the same money.

2005-2009 TRX250TE/TM Recon Service Manual - Helm Incorporated

 

Thanks for the tips on carb cleaning. I plan on taking this carb all apart. One thing I did in the interest of time is purchase the Clymer manual. I know it isn't the best but I'm hoping it will help in the short term until I locate the Honda service manual. (Thanks for the web site!). One thing the Clymer manual recommends is replacing the the o-rings on the pilot screw. Is this necessary if they look OK? They also recommend replacing the o-ring in the carb groove where the carb meets the head. If this looks OK should I let it ride or replace. My issue with replacing is my dealer has so few parts it just takes a week+ every time I need a part. Thanks again for your help!!!

 

If the dealer has the O rings, since they are so cheap, I'd personally go ahead and replace them, but if they don't have them in stock and the old ones look good...

I'd 2nd what has already been posted. It sounds like idle jet is partly clogged. I'll bet disassebly and blasting all the jets and passages out with a good carb cleaner will solve the problem. I like B12 Chemtool, but most all brands work fine.

Be sure to hit all the little ports inside the bore of the carb.

A little popping on heavy engine braking is typical with newer quads, as they are jetted pretty lean for emission reasons and the mixture goes leaner when you hack the throttle closed.

Also check closely for any intake air leak. If in any doubt, spray some oil around the junction at the head and intake manifold while running. You will likely hear a change in how it runs and see blue smoke in the exhaust if there is a leak.

 

I second what Jeffin said. If you tear into the carb, replace the o-rings. And make sure you use the right o-rings too!
I say this because my neighbor, a certified mechanic, works on everything and he rebuilt the carb on my wife's 04 Bruin as it was running rough and leaking fuel out of the overflow tube on the carb. Tapping on the float bowl/carb body had no effect on the fuel leak.

When he tore into the carb, he found that the small o-ring on the needle seat had deteriorated and so he took it to his work to find a replacement. He put it all back together and as long as the quad was driven, no problems until he parked it overnight and a half tank of fuel leaked out on the ground.

To make a long story short, I bought a carb kit from the Yamaha dealer and all is well with it now. My point is......don't cut corners!

Good luck and keep us informed!

 

OK Guys! You talked me into it. I called my dealer and ordered the 3 o-rings today ($16) and they might be here as early as Friday of next week. I'll push this into next weekend and clean the carb then. I'll keep you posted once I have more information. I'll check the other components mentioned above at that time also. Thanks for all the tips!!!!!!!!!!