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2004 TRX500 Fan inop

Old Jun 7, 2010 | 02:48 PM
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B-2 CREW CHIEF's Avatar
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Default 2004 TRX500 Fan inop

I have a 2004 TRX500FA that the cooling fan does not come on, after a while i get a oil hot light illuminated which drives me to emmediately shut it down. The brute runs like a champ except for this one problem and except for oil changes and plug changes it has not every been in the shop. Besides the fuse how do I trouble shoot this problem without taking it to the shop.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 06:06 PM
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Got the fan fixed, thanks to all. One Last dumb question, want to change the oil but what is the no kidding way to perform the task, also, do you recommend any other maintenance.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 11:37 AM
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Glad you got the fan fixed.

Besides oil and filter, check valve clearance, clean and re-oil the air filter. Front and rear axle gear oil, and the coolant should be replaced every 2 years.

Oil takes 5.2 quarts. 10W-40 for most temps, rated api SG and JASO rating MA. I think you pull the front engine guard to get at the oil filter cover. There is a washer between the spring and filter element that tends to stick to the filter (don't throw it out with the old filter).

Tighten the drain plug with a 3/8 drive torque wrench at 25 Nm (you don't want to strip that sucker).

It is a dry sump design, so to get an accurate oil level it is important that the machine idle for about 5 minutes with no throttle, then sit for 2.

Valve specs are .006" intake, and .009" exhaust. There is a hex head inspection cap on the side of the engine that will show a T on the flywheel when at top dead center. Make sure the rockers are loose, indicating it is TDC between compression and power stroke. If not, the engine is TDC between exhaust and intake and the valves are in overlap, so you would want to turn it another revolution until the T is back and the valves have play.

Rear axles call for 80W oil rated GL-5. Any quality 75W-90 rated GL-5 will be fine.

Axle wise, the rear has a big fill cap on the top, a drain bolt on the bottom, and a small level check bolt on the side. Basically, drain it, put the plug back in, and fill it until the level reaches the side bolt.

On the front, the big fill cap is kind of on the side, and is also the fill level. 12Nm torque for plug.

Coolant wise, I think the drain is on the water pump. Use motorcycle specific coolant, as automotive stuff can have harsh abrasives that don't do well with the smaller seals on ATV's.

Air filter: I really like Honda Pro's bio oil kit for foam filters. Once you get the factory goop out of the foam with some diesel or kerosene, wash it a couple times with Dawn, and let it dry. Then use the included cleaner, let it dry, and apply the oil, mushing it into the filter in a ziplock bag.

Then next time you can just use the included powdered cleaner and warm water to quickly wash the filter with no smell.

You would also want to inspect the CV joint boots for tears, check the steering stem for slop, check the throttle to make sure it has some freeplay, and look for slop in any of the suspension pivots. Alignment calls for 1" toed out as measured at the tread of the tires.
 
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