As far as the a typical oil/filter change on a 07 680, what is the oil capacity,torque spec on the oil drain plug as well as the oil filter bolt? If I'm correct the drain plug is at a slant under the atv,it's been a while since I changed it. Just wanted to be sure,it's a buddies and wanted me to help him out.Thanks

 

capacity is 3.1 quarts yes the drain is horizontal... make sure you pay attention to how the oil filter comes out like the spring placement I know its not hard to figure out but everytime I do an oil change Im usually hammered and have to stare at it for a few minutes LOL I wouldnt worry too much about exact torque just get the drain and the filter bolt snug.

 

Thanks,it's been 2 years since he changed the oil and a while since I've saw the ATV. I could not remember where the drain was,I looked at a Honda micro-fisch and the drain plug looked like it was on the side of the case where the oil fill tube is but I remembered draining it from the bottom,maybe a 17mm in size

 

2 years??? Uhhh while I dont doubt that honda can run the same oil forever (Ive seen it) how many miles are on that oil?? Ohhh and as far as an oil I switched to ams oil 0-40 atv oil and what a difference in warm up time as far as the tranny shifting properly and it just seems to run smoother and shift better all day long.

 

Not sure on the miles,he is a older guy so maybe not many.I know on my Polaris I change my fluids often,including the hubs,tranny,differentials and grease every zerk anytime I've been in alot of water,I'm a maint freak on everything I own.In 2005 had a friend who bought a old Timberwolf 2wd like a 89 model he bought from a guy and it had been setting up for 5 years with a cracked carburetor,he found a carburetor and I put it on along with a new battery and some old tires,the darn thing run with no smoke.He drove the **** out of it and never changed the oil,in 2009 I pestered him about the oil so he decided to change it on his own,well he is a big guy and not knowing the lefty loosey stripped the oil drain threads,I got him a oversized plug to stop the leak so all was good but he never changed the filter to this day. 9 years 1 oil change without filter.Guys got luck

 

Capacity is listed as 3.1 q with filter change, but if you prop the front up and let it sit for quite a while you will get quite a bit more out.

Drain plug torque is 25 Nm. Do not overtighten it. The filter goes in first, followed by the metal washer, and the spring. The washer tends to stick to the old filter, and it would be easy to throw away by accident. Filter bolt 18 Nm.

Oil should be rated GS and JASO MA. 10W 40 works well in most climates.

Valve spec is .15 mm intake and .33 exh. If it has been two years, I'd also suggest changing the oil in the final drive units. Spec is 80W rated GL-5, however 75W90 GL-5 would be fine.

One end has a fill cap on the side and a drain bolt on the bottom. The other one has a cap more toward the top, a fill level plug on the side, and a drain plug on the bottom.

Also, it has traditional chemistry coolant, which begins to loose its corrosion protection after two years regardless of miles, so I'd go ahead and change that too. Automotive coolant often has silicates or other abrasives to control corrosion that are too harsh for the much smaller seals in motorcycle and ATV water pumps, so I'd recommend Honda coolant, or another quality brand of motorcycle specific coolant.

Don't forget to do the air filter.

Lastly, the way the engine sump is, to get an accurate oil level reading the machine needs to idle for 4 or 5 minutes with no throttle, and sit for several minutes before you take a dipstick reading. Don't screw the dipstick in to take a reading, just set it on the threads. The transmission can act funny if the oil level isn't right up to the full mark.

Ride on.

 

Hmmm washer in the oil filter.... I'm thinking mines in the trash LOL still works I guess but i will take a good look next time... Jesus Jeffin you got all the good info..I feel silly now =)