Partzilla said I should be using a 16100-HM8-A41 carb but I find lots of 16100-HS0-A01 out there easily and it appears it is for newer models and cheaper on ebay. In some reviews I see people have indicated being able to use the carb with older Recon models.

Anybody here know if 16100-HS0-A01 can be used without issue or conversion to work on a 2002 Recon ES?

Thanks

 

Honda changed the cylinder head drastically in 2003 but, if the flange matches, and I think it does, then it will work. However, with the price of Chinese knock offs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262682755...ciY2W&LH_All=1 why not fit one of them?

 

I rebuilt this carb once before and had no issues but then it started leaking gas out overflow, changed fuel shutoff valve spring (if that's what you call it) and float but did not fix it. Don't want to play with Chinese carbs. I saw some comments about the newer Honda carb needing a larger ID diameter fuel line (1/8" increasing to 1/4"), is there any issue with using a larger ID fuel line on the fuel tank without some kind of modification?

 

"is there any issue with using a larger ID fuel line on the fuel tank"

If this is the difference, then obviously the bigger pipe isn't going to fit on the tap. A fairly simple mod though, is to fit one of those stepped in-line filters, small pipe onto the filter inlet and big pipe from outlet to carb. A new float needle should have cured your leaky carb, if you cleaned the seat, as the most common problem is dirt stuck between needle and seat. Once the dirt is out, the carb works fine. Odd times the needle is worn or the spring plunger sticks but a new needle cures that. However, if dirt got in once, there is often more dirt in the tank, which runs down onto the needle and jams it open again. Particularly if you disturbed the tank when removing the carb. A filter would help with this too. Warning, paper element fuel filters have a habit of air locking if run dry, so sometimes don't let fuel through if you run out and go onto reserve.

 

That's what kills me, I cleaned the area the needle goes in, sprayed carb cleaner up there and ran Qtip, no major dirt came out, then replaced the needle, then replaced the float, and no improvement, did not see any major dirt either and been running all kinds of cleaning fluids in there to see if it helped (Seafoam, Startron, Lucas fuel injector cleaner). Can you remove the seat itself (brass piece the needle goes in) and clean it? is that possible? Could there be something in causing the issue? If so, how do I remove it?

I was wanting to just replace the whole carb as I am sick of taking it off, cleaning it, changing parts, and putting it back several times now without improvement.

 

I have never tried changing seats on that type of carb, but it is rare that a new needle and clean tank don't cure it.You often can't see the dirt on the needle but a deposit in the float bowl means there is some coming down from the tank. One trick worth trying is to run the bike and turn the tap off, let it run until it stalls then turn the fuel back on again. If there is more dirt stuck between needle and seat, the rush of fuel past the wide open needle usually flushes it out.

 

I tried that the other day, didn't seem to work. I can't verify yet but I think this seat cannot be changed. But how about this one, somebody mentioned that if you are having an issue with your gas cap vent (mine has a tube coming out of the top of the gas cap) that it can create excessive pressure in the gas tank and therefore put extreme pressure on the carb causing the needle and float to stay down and allow the overflow.

Makes sense as the leak tends to appear after running for a few minutes.

Question, how do you test the gas cap vent for this issue?

 

Easy way is to stop engine and slacken cap when the fault is on, a hissing sound as you open it, indicates either pressure or a vacuum due to a blocked filler cap vent. In my experience you tend to get a vacuum though, as fuel used is not replaced by air, rather than pressure due to a warming tank.