I guess we are starting this discussion at it's a** and working forward. I should have went through my list of what we do whenever we swamp a machine. After a few trial and error attempts, we found that there are a few steps that if taken correctly will reduce the amount of water that gets into the crankcase anyway. we first try to stop laughing at the goofus that got in too deep! This takes several minutes actually. Then we stand up the machine and let it rest on it's rear bumper or whatever we can find if it don't have one. This lets most of the water run out the pipes. If you shut down as soon as ya get in too deep this will work better as the less you pump in the less ya pump out. Then we drop it down and remove plug as per springdrl's keen observations and try to blow out what is in the cylinder. If your rings are worth a crap, it will keep most of the water out of the crankcase. The problem I have seen with the Suzuki Quadrunner LT-500 and the Honda Foreman 450ES is they have a PCV hose that comes right out of the top of the crankcase and runs directly into the BOTTOM of the airbox. We did away with that junk and ran a vacuum hose and connected a little K&N filter to it and let it vent to the atmosphere. As a side note here, I have also did the same thing with all the axle vents, brake drum vent, and any other little tubes that come out somewhere and don't have anyplace to go. But on these we used GM axle tube vents. They only cost a couple dollars but keep out a lot of water. You have to adapt them to the vacuum hose with some fittings but isn't too hard. It is WELL worth your time to do this to any machine that sees water a lot. After the spark plug is removed and blown out, we then drain the carb bowl at the bottom. With any luck it will start up without too much trouble. We sunk a 450ES last summer in a bit of a high water area and all I saw then was my buddy and the big old light on top of the handlebars. It sat there for a long time before we got our caca together to pull it out. After completing the steps in the proper order--we drove it 15 miles back to the truck. Yes, it did have some water in the oil but not too much to drive it out of there. That's impressive to me because of all the things we did that worked in the field without many tools. You guys with the Hondas have it good, your filters cost almost nothing. You can order oil filters from JC Whitney for less than $2.00 each. Springdrl is also correct about pouring some other fluid in there to help flush out the crankcase. I use some NAPA motor flush. It is just kerosene really but I think it has more lubricating properties in it. I'm just being **** about that though. Good luck ya'll

 

Hey People what is this a "who's smarter contest"
All other people in here why challenge BIG500 he obviously knows more about this than you.
I mean look how long his replies are I have never written that much in my life!!

1998 Honda Recon, Sur Tracks on ITP aluminum, Uni Airfilter, Shockwears.

 

I don't know jack schitt about anything much. I am just a long winded sob that will talk yer ears off every chance I get if it's about hunting, shooting, guns, reloading, fishing, wheelers, trucks, and women. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

one time i sunk my 95 300trx really bad and filled everything with water. i just hit the decompression lever and all the water was blown right out and she started right up. although it did take about 15 minutes of just idling before she would move without stalling. i've extended all of my vent lines on my machines and i like the idea of running that pvc vent tube up high with it's own little filter. that one mod should be enough to keep the water out even if you fill the cyclinder with water( as long as that tube stays up). my brother and i are going to try taking our machines across a lake this summer. just need to snorkle my machine and put some floaties on it. well, i've got my engine all cleaned up now. all i have to do is put back together. later -dana