Why won't my 250R idle?
#2
What carb are you running, stock or Kiehin, or something else. Basically if its jetted properly it should idle, if jetting is off enough, it probably won't idle. If its a Kiehin carb, I've actually seen where the tip of the idle adjuster was brocken, so I bought a new one and it idled fine.
General2, this problem can be simple or complicated, what I suggest doing is having somebody in your area, a buddy who knows a lot about jetting or a mechanic at a shop, look at it. I couldn't tell you without being there to see what the plug looks like(should be a nice tan color at all throttle positions, 1/4, 1/2, and full), or what it sounds like, etc.
Hope you get it figured out, good luck.
General2, this problem can be simple or complicated, what I suggest doing is having somebody in your area, a buddy who knows a lot about jetting or a mechanic at a shop, look at it. I couldn't tell you without being there to see what the plug looks like(should be a nice tan color at all throttle positions, 1/4, 1/2, and full), or what it sounds like, etc.
Hope you get it figured out, good luck.
#5
I have recently had the exact same problem with my '86 250R. The bike ran OK except it wouldn't idle. I had that carb disassembled and cleaned so it sparkled. I considered replacing the carb figuring that the low-speed circuit just wasn't doing the job. The screw adjustment on the choke (Kiehin carb) is supposed to adjust the idle speed. On mine it didn't seem to have any affect. The needle valve adjustment (stock adjustment btw is 1 7/8 turns out from the seat) also didn't seem to impact the motor's inability to idle.
Turns out the problem was being caused by a sneaky degradation of compression. The compression went away so slowly I wasn't aware of it - couldn't really detect it via the kick-starter. I should have tried a compression tester - but I don't have one. So... I broke down the top of the motor to reveal a piston and cylinder that needed work. Once I got the new piston installed the compression on the kick-starter was very noticable and the bike idled smooth as silk!
You may want to consider inspection of the piston and cylinder. You may have the same problem I had.
------------------
Turns out the problem was being caused by a sneaky degradation of compression. The compression went away so slowly I wasn't aware of it - couldn't really detect it via the kick-starter. I should have tried a compression tester - but I don't have one. So... I broke down the top of the motor to reveal a piston and cylinder that needed work. Once I got the new piston installed the compression on the kick-starter was very noticable and the bike idled smooth as silk!
You may want to consider inspection of the piston and cylinder. You may have the same problem I had.
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#6
I have decided to tear the top end down. I know it has been about a year since it has been torn down so I will soon find out. However I also noticed that I have the KEIHN PJ carburator on it. I was told to try to get the KEIHN PWK carburator because it solves many problems and has two seperate adjustments. Could this also be my problem? What do most people like to use more the PJ or PWK?
Thanks
Thanks
#7
PWK is newer and better carburator. Thier are also airstryker PWK's for certain sizes that even work a little better. Also Keihin does have a brand new carb out that you may want to look at, I not sure, but I think its called a PWM or something like that. They changed the slide to get better airflow, and you can get to all the jets without having to pull the float bowl off. I actually modified my PWK by putting a slight notch in the threads of the bowl for the cap so I can get the pilot jet out without pulling the bowl off. Either a PWK or the new PWM should work fine.
Sickman
[This message has been edited by Sickman (edited 11-08-1999).]
Sickman
[This message has been edited by Sickman (edited 11-08-1999).]
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