After a little drag racing my 250R was down for the count. I pulled the plug, and saw traces of a leaky headgasket. There was antifreeze all over the electrode. After I got the plug cleaned up, and all the antifreeze gone, it still wouldn't crank. So, I checked for spark. Nothing. I took all the electrical tape/wire coating off, and traced all the wires. Ended up cutting the headlight, and taillight wires off. The guy that had my R befor me wired the tether kill into the kill switch, so I'm going to cut those off, and redo it as well.

I'm getting fire from the alternator, but nothing appears to be coming from the pulse generator. Does that describe a bad CDI? A friend of mine tends to think that's what it is. I sure hope so! A pulse generator/alternator is $225, and a CDI is $77.

So what do you think? I'm somewhat expecting it to be the CDI.

 

LoneStarBanshee, if you can afford it, get the CR250 ignition, much more reliable and you won't have to worry about those intermittent electrical/spark problems anymore. If that's not an option, check this:

Disconnect all ignition coil wires and measure the primary coil resistance between the black and green terminals of the ignition coil. The resistance should be 0.1 - 0.3 ohms.

Next measure the secondary coil resistance between the positive primary terminal on the ignition coil and spark plug lead with the spark plug cap attached. Resistance should be 7400 - 11000 ohms.

Next remove the spark plug cap, then measure the secondary coil resistance between the positive primary terminal on the ignition coil and spark plug lead. The resistance value should be 3700 - 4500.

If the coil resistance does not meet any of these specs, bad coil.

 

Brian, I have seen the ESR ignition, and no, I don't have the money. I'd rather spend it on something else.

I'll test this stuff tomorrow. I don't have the ohmmeter here.

 

lonestar the problem with testing with a ohnmeter is it gives you a range in witch the part should be good for example 1 to 6 ohns would show a good working range for a particular part but that is not always true the best way to check electrical is to test with a known good part ask your buddys to use there parts on your bike this test takes longer but its alot more percise thats just my .02 cents

good luck
brokenbones