2fun, I was implying that it IS ok to run an automotive oil in the transmission of a two stroke because the transmission oil never sees the crankshaft or cylinder. Also, there is no centrifugal clutch in most two strokes, so there is no clutch woories as well.

 

Oh, ok.
I see what you are saying now.
I guess we agree on this.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

My post is regarding 4-stroke, i don't know that much about 2-strokes, not yet anyways.

 

Yeah, mine was about 2-srokes (gearcase/clutch-case).

I used to have an 87 250X, but have since sold it, and do not have a manual on it to see what it says.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

I used to read these questions and answers about the correct oil to use in the ATV's with wet clutches. To make sure I was doing the right thing, I bought Yamalube for my Yamaha and just let my Honda dealer change the oil on my Hondas. My Honda dealer told me I was wasting money and worrying about something that wasn't a big deal. He said he puts Castrol GTX 20/50 in every motorcycle, generator, and ATV he sells and its the only oil he keeps in the shop. I started using it in my Yamaha and it actually made my Yamaha run quieter than it did with the Yamalube. The Yamaha clutch does slip a little if I really slam the gas to it after I shift into third gear. I'm not worried about it, because overall, the engine runs better and quieter than ever. Now my ATV's, lawnmowers, and generator all have it in them. I haven't changed my cars over, but I sure am thinking about it.

Ted

 

I asked an oil question over on the Cat forum, then did a little searching around. Check out this article that Quadfather found:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

I can't find any information on how motorcycle oil differs from auto oil. What exactly are the additives used to help prevent wet clutch wear? "Automotive oils have detergents and additives that cycle oil does not" well looking on the back of a quart of Arctic Cat oil it says it has both of these things. Until someone can prove to me that there is a difference the 375 will be getting Castrol GTX.

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

that was one of the most interesting articles on oil that i have ever read thank you
polaris 425 expedition
2000lb winch windsheild front and rear
bumpers polaris windsheild extension
rear rack

 

<< Ok I have a 1991 Honda XR250R Dirt Bike and about 2 months ago I had to have the engine rebuilt(not going into much detail there),Anyways I had a shop put the engine back together and it is burning oil, Since Killer98Warrior said that the automotive oils can seep past the piston rings easier and then the oil is getting into the combustion chamber and being burned. >>


Not true about automotive oils seeping past the rings. I won't go into details but I worked for Gulf Oil company, Chevron, and Texaco. Most oils are produced in tha same few refinery's and the difference is made up in additive packages the branding company wants. I ran Valvoline 10w 30 in my Warrior for 13 years (since it's first oil change) and it ran as good the day I sold it as the day I bought it and it didn't use any oil. (no rebuilds, no clutches, only two valve adjustments!)


<< So I know I have been using cheap oil, My dad had a couple cases of Havoline 20W-50 sitting around so I was using it, I thought the rings handn't seated but it is still burning oil. So my question is could it be the cheap $1.59 Havoline oil that is causing it? Could I try Mobil 1 20W-50 and see if it stops? Is Mobil 1 a GREAT OIL? Or should I get the Honda Brand, I gotta go to the Honda Dealer this weekend anyways so should I pick up the Honda Oil and try it? Thanks Matt >>


Actually the Havoline is good oil, the Honda will not be any better. Price does not equal quality in this instance.
Your engine is burning oil because of one of a number of possibilities.
Incorrect piston to cylinder clearance, not honed properly, rings installed upside down or deformed (twisted) when they were put on the piston. Valve guides or seals. Engine not properly broke in after the rebuild.

 

I ran automotive oil in My new Raptor. I lost a gear, the usual Raptor story, and my mechanic said my clutch looked great and so did my cylinder after 13 months.. I sold it six months later w/ no hint of my clutch going out. I raced four mx races too. The oil had nothing to do w/ my second gear thing. That was after about 200hrs of seat time. The manual say 10w-30 and doesn't specify any brand. Just my experience.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Read for yourself It's long but worth it........
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

 

Bump for those who continue to ask this question.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]