I have been using castrol syntec fully synthetic oil and am wondering what the difference is between it and the expensive stuff they sell at the shops? I have not heard anything to tell me that the "Honda" oil is any different than the others. My friend pays the 5 or 6 bucks for the manufacturer brand that is not even synthetic. I want to know what you all think on the subject. thanks

 

As long as you use oil for cycles you will be fine. If you use auto oil in your machine you will eventually have clutch problems. Your machine uses the same oil for your clutch, trans, and engine. The Cycle oil has stuff in it to work for all the parts lube requirements while not causing adverse effects like clutch slipping. Are you going to blow the engine? Doubt it but eventually you will need a clutch.

 

Jon,
I'm new to the 4 wheel thing, but real familiar with the 2 wheel thing. I agree with what wildfan said..any of the energy conserving oils have additives in them that don't do a wet clutch any good, it will cause slippage..on the synth oils mobil 1 (red cap) 20-50 does NOT have this additive in it, I run it in my street bikes with good sucess, about 4 to 4.25 qt at parts house or wally world..
other thoughts in the street bike world use rotella, or delo ..fleet oils don't have the additives in them either.read the manual & use what it calls for (read the api code)

Surveyor

 

Automotive oils have detergents and additives that cycle oil does not, and like he said, these are not appropriate for you clutch. I'm not trying to get in anybodys face here, but I am always puzzled by the "can I get away with a cheaper oil" questions that always pop up here in the forum. We pay thousands of dollars for our bikes, and then pump a couple of thousand more into them with all the mods, tires, etc., well why not protect your investment by using the best (and correct!!) oil?? This is no place to try to save money, and it isn't a significant expense anyway!!

 

Actually, the Honda manual says to use 10-30W oil. It does not specify Honda brand oil, or "Bike" oil that I can see.

Many people use the cheap-cheap stuff and simply change it every ride.

I personally use Castrol syntech 100% synthetic oil in my gearcase, and have NEVER had premature clutch wear. I don't see a quality synthetic oil causing any more wear than I do a "Spendy Honda/Yamaha" oil.

I'm sure if Honda, and Yamaha were to crank out as much oil as these other companies, they wouldn't be near as expensive as they are.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Acually the OEM oils are made by Mobil, Shell, etc. etc. It depends on the brand. They are made to the OEM's specifications.

Two strokes are quite different because the oil that you use in the transmission never sees the crankshaft unless you have a bad seal. Cluth problems aren't affected by using automobile oils either because the "clutch" problems accossiated with automobile oils are with the CENTRIFUGAL clutch and not the clutch pack.

NEVER put an automobile oil in any engine that has a centrifugal clutch AND one in which the transmission oil is also the engine oil.[Nearly every quad out there]

Here's a question.....Would you want your truck engine and transmission running in the same oil bath?????? If it did have the same oil bath, wouldn't you want an oil designed to do it???

 

Knowsalot;
Now I'm not sure exactly what you are saying there.
Are you saying NOT to use motor oil in the tranny of a 2-stroke?

My Honda manual states and I quote:
"Remove the oil filler cap and add SAE 10W-40 engine oil until engine oil starts to run out of the oil level check bolt." Also it states "Use only a high quality detergent motor oil with an API rating of SE, or SF. The quality rating is stamped or printed on top of the can or label on plastic bottles."

Right beside these instructions is a picture of a plastic bottle, AND a can of Pennzoil motor oil.

I see no reason for not being able to use these oils. From my own experience, AND the manual, they should be fine.

 

I run what it says to run after all they made it they should know how to take care of it. Filters and lubricants are no place to spare expense. If times are so tight put on a generic pipe but I wouldn't skimp on the maintenance.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

THe automotive oils have friction modifiers and other modifers, that the ATV oils don't. The auto oil can slip past the rings more easily because they use these modifiers in place of thicker oil. And because the ATVs don't have as tight of clearences as the engines in cars, the oil will slip past the rings and be burned, and so if you go on a long trail ride, as I found out the hard way, all the oil will be burned and you get to rebuild your engine.

If I can find (again) the website where I got my info, I will post it.

 

Ok I have a 1991 Honda XR250R Dirt Bike and about 2 months ago I had to have the engine rebuilt(not going into much detail there),Anyways I had a shop put the engine back together and it is burning oil, Since Killer98Warrior said that the automotive oils can seep past the piston rings easier and then the oil is getting into the combustion chamber and being burned. So I know I have been using cheap oil, My dad had a couple cases of Havoline 20W-50 sitting around so I was using it, I thought the rings handn't seated but it is still burning oil. So my question is could it be the cheap $1.59 Havoline oil that is causing it? Could I try Mobil 1 20W-50 and see if it stops? Is Mobil 1 a GREAT OIL? Or should I get the Honda Brand, I gotta go to the Honda Dealer this weekend anyways so should I pick up the Honda Oil and try it? Thanks Matt