What is the lowest point on an IRS machine? The A-arm or where?
Thanks

 

Technically speaking it would be the a-arm at the point it attaches to the wheel, but the size of that contact spot is very small. The actual a-arm would be the next choice for contact, but again the surface area is small, but certainly able to hang a machine up in the right terrain. I can easily plow down the sides of center rise in ruts with the a-arms of my quad, then again I can drag the skid plate and the a-arms pretty hard leaving a half inch trench in the top of the center rise. The only thing above the a-arms that is the skid plate. When run up on that hard enough and the ruts are deep enough your stuck!

Glenn.
Y2K Sportsman 500

 

The arm lowest point is at the wheel than it is on a 40 degree rise to the gear box on the rear.The arm do not catch things like straight across axle does. The extra ground clearance of the IRS was not designed like that it is just a bonus that came with the IRS system .I think it was only made to make a smoother ride.

 

OK, 2" tire with 1 3/4 tread lifts the whole machine , axles and all! A 2" lift, lift's the frame of the atv using brackets to extend your shock longer! When I added just the tires the G.C.
was changed 7.7 to 9.8! I measured at the axles and skid plates! When I added the 2" lift it lifted the front skid up to 12" even! Measured at the floorboards it was 12" even! Measured back at the towing hitch it was 11 1/2! I made a tow hook for the back and it droped the back G.C. to 11" even! I'm going to open a website with pitures and show you pitures of a polaris getting dogged in a mudhole because the AT got flooded!

 

OK ATVing. Soooooo you got EBS. What does that have to do with pulling a load on flat ground, which depends solely on your cluch engagement rpm. Does EBS make your clutch engage at lower rpm for just slowing down on downhills or for pulling. I'm tired of the old debate about 4x3 VS true 4x4, if I wanted true 4x4 I'd buy a King Quad with a locking differential or a locker for my Honda for $150, or better still I'd ride my horse (now that's a 4X4 and you can't go fast climbing mountains or going through swamps). Anyway, I'm not going to argue with you about whose is better. I'm glad you like your machine and I like mine. It does what I want it too, goes where I need it to go and I am very happy with it.
PS In most cases it's not the machine, but the operator.

Have Fun and Be Safe!
Jeff

 

HLForeman,

Some points on your explaination:

-OK, 2" tire with 1 3/4 tread lifts the whole -machine , axles and all!
This is the correct way to get more GC, but when a tires diameter is measured it is with the tread on. So adding the height of the tread after is out. So like I said originally adding a 3" taller tire adds 1.5 inches of GC under the rear diff.

-A 2" lift, lift's the frame of the atv using -brackets to extend your shock longer! When I -added just the tires the G.C. was changed 7.7 to -9.8!
This lift adds no extra GC under the axle, where it counts. It just raises the frame off the tires so larger tires can be fitted.

-I measured at the axles and skid plates! When I -added the 2" lift it lifted the front skid up to -12" even! Measured at the floorboards it was 12" -even! Measured back at the towing hitch it was 11 -1/2! I made a tow hook for the back and it droped -the back G.C. to 11" even!
So you are saying you front skid plate, your floorboards and the bottom of your rear diff are at 12" (approx.)?? How is this possible? So more creative measuring?

-I'm going to open a website with pitures and show -you pitures of a polaris getting dogged in a -mudhole because the AT got flooded!
How much will this raise your ground clearance???

Overall you still have not told us how your getting all this GC. You have given a good explanation of 1.5 inches of GC. Unless you dug a hole under the rear diff before measuring.

Glenn.
Y2K Sportsman 500

 

sorry double post

 

ok this 3x4 vs. 4x4 debate is garbage. like BigRed450 said it's all about the rider.


this GC debate----if ya don't beleive him wait till he gets the pics up and then continue this debate.

the real debate about for this thread: an auto will do anything a manual will do. a manual will do anything an auto can do. the only thing a manual will not do that an auto will is slip when ya get water in it.

cart

 

yes most guys with 3 wheel drive hondas think it is don't blame polaris cause they make a better pulling machine. If you want to blame somebody, blame honda that are to cheap to make a device to put it in 2 or 4 wheel drive so you could add lockers without hard steering. I am tired of arguing this subject too...that anyone could believe that a 3 wheel drive machine can pull with a 4 wheel drive machine even with the newer limited slip on the rancher...it is still only 3 wheels pulling at one time...and about the belt slipping I have not experienced this but if I do I can live with it, its a lot better than going out buying an expensive chain, front clog and rear clog...think I will stick with a $35 belt.

Honda is satisfied with what pulling power there bikes have or they would create a 2 to 4 drive switch instead of coming out with a sugar coated 3 wheel drive limited slip that is just about basically the same thing. If you are serious about climbing buy a polaris, if you want less than the best in this area buy a 3 wheel drive

 

A y2kodiak WILL crawl in low range. So much so that I've only used it once to haul 900lbs of wood. Let's face it, Yamaha has taken the already extremely popular auto tranny by Polaris and added Yamaha function and reliability.