tag-a-long trailers
#2
Well, if you bought when you said you were, I'm too late, but here goes.
We bought an Otter "Super Express" trailer last year, and have taken it 'pioneer camping" several times. That is: throw everything you want into it (including extra gas), take off into the mountains, camp where nightfall finds you, do it again tomorrow night, find your way back to the truck Sunday afternoon. I pull it with my Foreman 450ES, no problem, just makes me shift about 2 mph lower in each gear, but the handling is almost totally unaffected by that trailer. It also doubles as a really handy garden trailer, has a dump mechanism and all.
Check 'em out: http://www.otteroutdoors.com/trailers.html
I bought mine from a local Sportsman's Warehouse, paid full price, love it. Add a 5x7 tarp and about 6 bungees, it's almost dust-tight.
We bought an Otter "Super Express" trailer last year, and have taken it 'pioneer camping" several times. That is: throw everything you want into it (including extra gas), take off into the mountains, camp where nightfall finds you, do it again tomorrow night, find your way back to the truck Sunday afternoon. I pull it with my Foreman 450ES, no problem, just makes me shift about 2 mph lower in each gear, but the handling is almost totally unaffected by that trailer. It also doubles as a really handy garden trailer, has a dump mechanism and all.
Check 'em out: http://www.otteroutdoors.com/trailers.html
I bought mine from a local Sportsman's Warehouse, paid full price, love it. Add a 5x7 tarp and about 6 bungees, it's almost dust-tight.
#3
I have a tag-a-long I built back in 97. Love it. the bed is 46" wide X 46" long X 12" high sides. It has no axles and uses 4 wheeler tires. I installed a 1/2" square stock all around the bottom for tie offs. I had the wife sew me a leather tonneau cover for it also. I also installed a 5 gallon gas can retainer on the pole, for those special long camping trips. We usually do a 4 day trip every year with 4 other couples and gas stations are sometimes few and far between on our routes. I actually built one a little different for the brother in law. Can send you picks if you want... let me know.
Honcho...
Honcho...
#4
Honcho I would love to see those pictures, me and buddy are getting ready to build trailers of our own. That is going to be the best use yet for the factory Dunlops that came on my quad. We have found some places we want to go camping with our families and need a way to get our camping gear back to them with us. Been trying to decide if we need a suspension on them or not. Any help or sugestion, please fireaway. Thanks
#5
Dirt VH --
Check out the pics on that Otter website I mentioned above.
Our "Super Express" uses a straight axle, no suspension, and does fine on the trails. The original ATV's, the early "killer" 3-wheelers, just used the "balloon" tires as suspension, no springs or anything. Your Dunlops are much more sophistocated tires, but according to Dunlop you can run the 2-ply 24x & 25x's as low as 2.5 psi (that's lower limit -- recommended range is 3.2-4.0, outer limits are 2.5-5.0 psi.)
anywhere below about 3.5, depending on your trailer load, should give you plenty of cushion.
We carry all our camping gear, plus extra water & gas, with us. My Foreman barely notices the extra load, and the trailer handles decently in a backing-up situation, a tribute to finding the right tongue length. You might be able to "scale" dimensions off their photos, basing it on a known dimension such as tire diam. or box length, and get a running start on your own design dimensions.
We tried a number of "lawn & garden" trailer models (Sears, Rubbermaid, Home Depot, etc.) and didn't like the way they handled. Be sure to get suitable high-speed wheel bearings for yours -- lots of the "utility" trailers are rated to a limit of 7 to 10 mph under load.
Another innovative idea that Otter used is the tapering-up underside (trailer floor) behind the axle. Since the Otter has a dump-bed, I'm sure the upsloping rear was mostly to accommodate dumping. On the trail, however, that slanted rear floor lets you crawl over ruts, potholes, even your average Kelly Hump, without dragging the rear end of the trailer. A rectangular-profile trailer box is easier to build and holds more, but the tapered bottom lets you design your overall trailer lower to the ground (lower center of gravity) while still maintaining good ground clearance.
Good luck with your project, and be sure to post us some pics when you're done!
Check out the pics on that Otter website I mentioned above.
Our "Super Express" uses a straight axle, no suspension, and does fine on the trails. The original ATV's, the early "killer" 3-wheelers, just used the "balloon" tires as suspension, no springs or anything. Your Dunlops are much more sophistocated tires, but according to Dunlop you can run the 2-ply 24x & 25x's as low as 2.5 psi (that's lower limit -- recommended range is 3.2-4.0, outer limits are 2.5-5.0 psi.)
anywhere below about 3.5, depending on your trailer load, should give you plenty of cushion.
We carry all our camping gear, plus extra water & gas, with us. My Foreman barely notices the extra load, and the trailer handles decently in a backing-up situation, a tribute to finding the right tongue length. You might be able to "scale" dimensions off their photos, basing it on a known dimension such as tire diam. or box length, and get a running start on your own design dimensions.
We tried a number of "lawn & garden" trailer models (Sears, Rubbermaid, Home Depot, etc.) and didn't like the way they handled. Be sure to get suitable high-speed wheel bearings for yours -- lots of the "utility" trailers are rated to a limit of 7 to 10 mph under load.
Another innovative idea that Otter used is the tapering-up underside (trailer floor) behind the axle. Since the Otter has a dump-bed, I'm sure the upsloping rear was mostly to accommodate dumping. On the trail, however, that slanted rear floor lets you crawl over ruts, potholes, even your average Kelly Hump, without dragging the rear end of the trailer. A rectangular-profile trailer box is easier to build and holds more, but the tapered bottom lets you design your overall trailer lower to the ground (lower center of gravity) while still maintaining good ground clearance.
Good luck with your project, and be sure to post us some pics when you're done!
#6
DirtVH --
Actually, I just checked the Otter website, and all their photos are taken at "attractive" angles, so you can't really tell dimensions.
E-mail me privately if you're interested, and I'll do a sketch and send you the general measurements off my Otter.
Actually, I just checked the Otter website, and all their photos are taken at "attractive" angles, so you can't really tell dimensions.
E-mail me privately if you're interested, and I'll do a sketch and send you the general measurements off my Otter.
#7
DirtVH:
You don't need a suspension if your just building a small tag-a-long for your machine. To test my trailer, I put in 275 lbs of rims and tires ( 3 of my 32" tires and rims from my Honcho) and me and the bro took them for a 20 mile ride in everything from rough awd terrain to Wide open throttle travelling on old wood roads and you could hardly tell she was there.
I posted some pics of my trailer and the one I built for the bro in the "My Page " section, hope you enjoy... if you need more info, you can e-mail me....
Honcho...
You don't need a suspension if your just building a small tag-a-long for your machine. To test my trailer, I put in 275 lbs of rims and tires ( 3 of my 32" tires and rims from my Honcho) and me and the bro took them for a 20 mile ride in everything from rough awd terrain to Wide open throttle travelling on old wood roads and you could hardly tell she was there.
I posted some pics of my trailer and the one I built for the bro in the "My Page " section, hope you enjoy... if you need more info, you can e-mail me....
Honcho...
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#8
That looks like some good work on that trailer Honcho. Hope you don't mind I copied the picture to possibly use for refference. One of my concerns was if a non suspended trailer would handle a really rock slope big rocks and small ledges. The trailer it's self looks plenty tuff, I worried about it coming off the hitch under extreme 4x4 conditions.
#9
I used to have a mountain goat atv trailer that was amazing...till i accedently destoyed it.
What i have been using is a plastic walmart trailer, but, when i got this platic trailer i relised that it bounced...was noisy, and ground clearence was nothing! I had an old gokart outback with huge balloon tires, solid axle....so i removed the axle from the gokart, and mounted it onto my walmart trailer. then i ran into another problem.
When i turned (first time out, test run) the trailer would bend due to the plastic, so i put 2x4 braces on the bottom and sides....so far, the trailer has been good.
the trailer is only temporary until i get some money for a better one.
What i have been using is a plastic walmart trailer, but, when i got this platic trailer i relised that it bounced...was noisy, and ground clearence was nothing! I had an old gokart outback with huge balloon tires, solid axle....so i removed the axle from the gokart, and mounted it onto my walmart trailer. then i ran into another problem.
When i turned (first time out, test run) the trailer would bend due to the plastic, so i put 2x4 braces on the bottom and sides....so far, the trailer has been good.
the trailer is only temporary until i get some money for a better one.
#10
i built a trailer to use while camping also. i used the axle, bearings and all from an old 3 wheeler make unknown. i used 2 piecese of 3/8 x 6 x 18 steel for axle mounts and 1x2 and 1x1 steel tubing for the frame. from the front edge of the trailer back to the bottom of the axle mounts i put a 1/4 x 12 x 20 piece of steel plate for a skid plate and to help reinforce the axle mounts. total lenth of trailer is about 75inches and width is 44 inches. im guessing it weighs close to 200lbs if not more. but the rubicon doesnt seem to mind. if you want pictures i can take some and post them if youd like.


