Moose are pretty big animals, have a huge vital area and are usually shot at fairly close range. You need a gun that you can shoot well. 30.06 ammo is pretty cheap and pleanty of power to knock a moose down. You can buy a good used Remington, Winchester or Savage bolt action rifle for about $350.
Don't buy a magnum unless you plan on doing a lot of practice. Puting a moose in your cross hairs can be a bit un-nerving and if you are already flinching from the shock of the gun it can be a big problem.

 

In Alaska, its about $500 for a non-res lisence and about $100 for the tag. I believe it is a drawing but there are places where you can just go with a guide. As a Non-Res that is required. With airfare and meat transport expect to pay at leat $3000. Probably more.

Caliber, 30-06 with 180grain bullet is the minimum. I use a Ruger MKII stainless with a Weaver 4-12x40 scope chambered in 300 win mag with 225grain bullets and even the furry beast are not much a problem. As I have shot bears with this as well.

Not sure about shot distances. My clostest was 15ft and farthest was about 50yds. All animals took about 1 step before they dropped. DOn't worry about gun size its shot placement.

As for getting scopes and such a great online stor is www.natchezess.com
It has great deals aon scopes and shooting gear.

Hope this helps and good luck.

SJ

 

Here is the site explaining the costs for licence and tags and what you would need to do. Here
Yes shot placement is critical, but if the animal is charging or not giving you the best shot you need more knock down power. One of the stupidest things I ever saw when I was moose hunting was a German group and the guide was packing a 243. This is not a good backup gun and not someone I would want covering my back if things didn't go as planned. All your shots will not be 15 to 50 yards either so be prepared for up to 300 yards shots of not more, not everyone hunts thick covered areas. In other words practice and don't go under gunned and you will be fine

 

Thanks to all of you for all the info. Unfortunately, with all the research I've done with your info, I'm not gonna be going any tiem real soon. I need the bucou bucks for college so I guess it's gonna be another five years away. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] Thanks to everyone though.

 

I shot my Alaskan moose with the .300 Win Mag. Browing BAR [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

If I were to do it again, I would have gotten the BAR .338 [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

I was born and raised in Alaska and have hunted up here most of my life. Here's my rundown on moose rounds. I've used everything from .270 to 375 H&H. Smaller rounds including 7mm are to be generally avoided. You need to know your anatomy very well in order to place a shot that will kill and drop the animal. Anything outside of the vital area can lead to a long frustrating chase. 30-06 has probably killed more moose than any other round at least in Alaska. It is versatile, universally available and you won't have spent a lot of money on a large magnum round that you can't use on more common North American game.

I do not reccomend 7.62 x 54, 30-40 Krag, .303, 8mm, or any other military round. These were designed to kill people, not large ungulates. They do not transmit the kind of hydrostatic shock you need to drop a moose at any distance. Remember, most moose are taken at around 200 yards. Your chances of wounding or missing a moose with these rounds is much greater.

If I had to reccomend a pure moose round it would be the larger 30 caliber hunting rounds 300WSM, .300, .338 etc. All of these have the power to reach out and break a moose down at 250-plus yards. They are also flat shooters. I currently use .338 as my primary moose rifle because it is also effective on brown bears so I don't need to carry a separate bear gun.

I don't think there is any other place in the US to reliably hunt moose other than Alaska. Other places is a very limited lottery. Here you can come up for a guided or unguided trip and harvest a moose for the cost of an out of state liscense and tag.

 

I like the 300 win mag. Problem I have is after about 5 rounds I get a BAD flinch. So, anything bigger then deer, .308 or 270 with well constructed bullet and superior shot placement. Also like the 7mm rem mag.

 

My grandfather lost count of how many moose he'd shot with his old 30-30.It's all in knowing what your gun and ammo can do,and where to put the shot.

Alot of people think you need cannons nowadays.My buddy thinks you can't goose hunt unless you have a 10 gauge.I get just as many as he does with my 20 gauge,and it ticks him off.

 

That's a fact. I read innumerable posts where .300 mags, .338 and such being used as deer rifles.

 

It's true more moose have been knocked down with 30-30's than any other gun, but it's also true more moose have been injured and lost with 30-30's than any other caliber, because it's been around longer than most hunting rifles and cheap and can be packed behind the seat of a truck with out worrying about damageing a scope or a fancy stock.

It doesn't take a lot of thinking to know that bigger is better. If a 30-30 works, then a 30-06 is better and a 300 mag is better again. And yes a 300 and 338 can be used on deer and it will do less damage because of bullet design. Which everyone should be choosing the right bullet for the right game hunted. When people say a big caliber did all kinds of damage to a deer that is the fault of the bullet or where you shot it. In a head, neck or lung shot it doesn't matter what gun you use. If you are shooting through the shoulders or hing quarters on a deer, you should let someone else shoot at it for you. A larger heavier bullet doesn't fly apart and send shrapnel through out the animal, a lighter caliber bullet will blow apart and damage more meat