Newbeatle;

Great work.

If you can get a belt 29 1/2" inside. 33 1/2 inches outside. 1 3/8 inch wide, with a 12 degree angle.

I'll send you a check for a few!

let me know! Thanks

 

Mike, I really dont understand the purpose in getting a longer belt. I mean, when our belt wears is it the sides wearing or the belt streaching or both? My thinking is both. So, to accomodate this we remove spacers to put the belt back in spec.

When you install this longer belt are you going to let it run out of spec? If you put it back in spec seems like you will be defeating the purpose of the longer belt. Also, if you start out with a longer belt you may end up having no spacers at all to start with. Therefore, when the belt wears you wont have any adjustment. But if the $45 belt works then it may not be to bad. If that were the case for me I would have already spent $90 on belts.

Im not trying to be negative here just thinking out loud on the forum.

Anyway, good luck on your quest for a new belt.

 

Just a few observations on the clutches. I think Newbeatle you have the right idea with respect to a new belt a little longer and wider. A little history on my part, I changed the angle of my front sheaves as they were worn from idling for long periods from winching out of mud holes and such. Since they were wore I felt it didn't matter if I messed them up as they were almost toast anyway. I rewelded from the bottom to 3/4 way up the sheave then remachined them to a wider angle angle by 2* inclusive. After mounting the clutch back on and trying it I found the front sheave moved the belt faster than the driven clutch almost like a fine nut on a bolt will move out slower than on a coarse thread. basically, the front sheave was moving faster than the back one tried to change the angle of the slots on the rear shaft. Since there is no other manufacturer to go to I welded up the slots on the rear shaft and changed the angle on them as well I did this 4 times until I found the right angle to match the shifting speed of the front sheaves. I also changed out the bushing for an oil light bushing and made it smaller to accommodate the belt on the bottom. This is a great deal of work to go to but it has worked very well. Since I have installed a different ignition system one that the rpm can be limited I have been playing around with timeing advance with the same rpm limit as we have on our machines. A strong 32* from 2500 rpm will pull the belt to the top of the drive sheave to 8200 where I had the rpm limit set. I have had the quad up to 10,000 rpm with no ill effects about running the belt off the front sheave at least so far LOL.

I wish i had changed out the ignition long ago with the addition of an aftermarket belt that would be a lot simpler good luck on your belt sizes.

 

Kod;

With a wider belt, there will be no adjustments, the secondary clutch will already be compressing against the spring, like it would if you were moving say 10 MPH. We might have to install extra shims and possible a lighter or shorter spring to allow for the extra width, then we could adjust.

There will be some R&D work after we get the belts to find the best combinations. If I get one, I'm going to use polaris springs, better slection and less expensive.

No one has proven for sure how much longer belt we need, if at all. But because we all know we are not using at least 1/2" from the top of our primary and about the same or a little more to the bottom of our secondary, with it being a declining measurement and the primary being a inclining measurement, it stands to reason that the present belt will hit the bottom of the secondary before it gets to the top of the primary. That's why the belt might have to be longer.

The measurements for the belt I described above is the same length as the stock belt. A place to start.

 

KOD... AS SHOTGUN was implying... there will be fitting, to get the new belt set right... In theory, it must be proportionate to the stock belt ... ( Proportionally as much longer as it is wider ) ... but we will have to see, maybe we will need the increase in the belt proportionally twice as wide as it is long ??? we will probably have to add shims to the rear clutch, as the belt will be wider than the bottom of the pulley ( we still want the belt to reach the bottom of both the front & rear clutches, to maintain full range of ratios )... by adding a wider belt, it's going to want to ride up higher on the sheaves, as they angle out... if we used just the wider belt, & winding down the pulleys, there is less distance in the bottom of the secondary, than there is in the top of the primary, so, again, in theory, the belt will bottom out on the secondary, before it reaches the top of the primary... if the belt is too long, it will reach the bottom of the secondary, & keep climbing up & off the top of the primary, so, length is critical... the width is a little more adjustable, & I'm hoping for more input, & some time to look at, & think about this, before I order these belts... if it were easy, everyone would do it... the fame & fortune ( LOL ) are worth me ordering a few belt lengths & widths to play with...like I've said before, I want a simple fix that the average guy can do...once we are fully using the pulleys, then I'll worry about the weights & springs, but I look at those as tuning options, not the fix...WAM

 

I did the marker trick to make sure i was right before posting here again and my belt does not go all the way into the secondary. There is probably a half inch left. So a stock length wider belt would be the ticket and maybe a hair longer. It will take some testing to get it right to see which belt works the best.

 

SHOTGUN... if you are sure that that is the belt size you want ( on your post 33.5 O.D. X 1 3/8" X 12 degrees )... ( I'm concerned that it is possibly a little too long, but it is the same size that I picked as an optimum place to start )... XXXXX makes a belt, that is 33.6" long ( outer diameter ) X 1 3/8" wide... ( need to check the angle degree )... part number XXXXXXXX ... I was told the price was $45.00 + shipping ... I'm OK with you ordering, if you have a source, but I'd prefer to cycle the belts on the CVT system first, to make sure that they will stay on the primary, before I order any for anyone else... I P.M.ed you the information that is Xed out ... You know what will happen, if the belt walks off the primary while riding the quad... this is why I feel it's important to insure that the length is a precise fit, & was hesitant to even post lengths that I was considering, until I get the chance to run the quad on the stand first...

ANYONE LOOKING AT THESE BELT SIZES, PLEASE GIVE US SOME TIME TO INSURE THAT THEY ARE SAFE TO RUN... IF THE BELT IS TOO LONG, & WALKS OFF THE FRONT PULLEY, WHILE RIDING, THERE IS A HIGH PROBABILITY, THAT THE TIRES WILL LOCK UP, & ESPECIALLY IF IN 4 X 4 MODE, WILL RESULT IN TOTAL LOSS OF CONTROL & POSSIBLE INJURY...

Thanks...WAM

 

From what I understand, the belt safety switch will need to be spaced up higher, as it is low enough to trip, with the belt at 1/2" from the top of the pulley...I would think that a plastic block could be made as a spacer, when & if needed...WAM

 

newbeatle, just take the two wires for the belt switch and connect them together, this will eliminate the switch which can then be removed and you never have to worry about it causing you problems again!

 

Good luck experiementing. I guess Im just not as iterested in it as you all are. I do enjoy reading the post though.