Hi Alltoys. Thanks for the info. It sounds like your really happy with the hpx system. How did you mount the sensor? I was thinking about using a p700 recoil cover and mounting the sensor on it. Did you machine a new cover or use something else? I think raising the avail RPM's is going to be the key to more mph, after all given the gear ratio, clutch ratios and rpm limits without going outside the box you won't see significant gains. I don't intend on running nos right now but I have on just about anything I've driven in the past. The ability to control that is a real plus to the hpx. EFI in the future? Speen density system I would assume? What about the throttle body, single or dual? That sounds like a fun project. Thanks again for the R&D.

 

Newbeatle, DWB,
What I am talking about is where the face plate mounts onto the moveable sheave. When I machine the 2 sheaves so they will come together more pushing the belt up further onto the sheaves. This can only happen if the face plate is gapped or install the proper width washer that the sheaves have been machined. I have taken out 0.100 total on the sheaves if you install the face plate with no spacers between the spider and face plate the spring will not contract enough allowing the belt to go higher up the sheaves.

There is a certain amount of space between the sheaves that a belt rotates very freely. When the spring is compressed it will only compress so far pushing the belt to the maximum of spring compression. This new face plate from Dalton is made 0.040 inches deeper so the moveable sheave will move in 0.040 more than stock. There is enough room between the sheaves to allow for an extra 0.040 with the belt there and still allow for slippage.

When I machined my sheaves that extra amount the spring would still not compress enough to push the belt up higher on the sheaves. By Gapping the original face plate by the extra 0.100 this allows the spring to move the moveable sheave the extra 0.100 because the surface that would hold back the spring is now moved 0.100 deeper. This new face plate allows for more compression especially with the new blue spring a simple remedy much faster than machining. I must further add your motor will have to have some modds at least intake and exhaust modds to get full benefit of these items in stock form you may not get the results of a modded quad. DWB, I will PM you my number we can chat to length if you wish on the clutches.

Needmorespeed,
Rpms are the answer this motor has the possibility with no adverse effects the bike I ran in Europe it was of the same design as ours almost identical bore stroke crank throw and so on it can handle 11,000 rpm with no problem. We need an ignition and the HPX so far is one of the better types at least for what I wish to do with my quad. There is another system called Boyer Bransden but will need a little more initial set up but will work equally well and around 200 cheaper than the HPX. I had to machine a metal piece to hold the reluctor wheel with 2 slots so it can be fine tuned if needed after install. The metal piece that holds the the reluctor wheel needs a centre hole and a notch for a key way so the key will hold the metal piece which in turn holds the reluctor wheel. If you go on to their site you will see a universal mounting bracket you can use this or make one yourself. Once you have the timeing sequence set from the front cylinder align the chisel point pick up to the leading edge of the timeing point you wish. The rest is a simple hook up of wires to coils and power to push pull type switch. This ignition is great for performance but there is another interesting thing that this ignition does that it helps immensely for keeping the motor cool. I can have my motor idle for 10 minutes before the fan kicks in and its not long before it stops. It used come on all the time and especially when stopped for a refreshing sports drink on the trail, it doesn't come on at all now unless I leave it idle for a long time.

 

Is this face plate like the red or blue one you can buy form kawasaki?

 

Alltoys,
Is it a stock face plate just machined or did they make one themselves? I have my clutch getting lighten up and can have them do this if possible, instead of machining and spacing.

Will using a 360 belt work with this setup? Isn't it a little wider than the 700 belt?

 

Shotgun, Wildwill,
The face plate is custom from Dalton I am not sure if it is the same from Kawi it is however hollowed out to reduce weight. A 700V belt is slightly wider than a P650 belt with the 360 belt being the widest the V is in the middle. I am going for a mudd run today when I get back I can take a pic of the face plate and weights and send them to someone who can dump them on the forum. My puter is going for a over haul tomorow so if one of you guys send me your email I can send you a pic of the face plate and weights tonight.

 

Alltoys,

You have PM.

 

Wildwill,
Pics sent let me know where you post them thanks.

 

A few facts about the new cover plate:

1)Yes it is totally manufactured by Dalton.
2)It has releif cuts in the area where the spider would hit the plate.
3)It will only work on the new 700 clutch,this is because the (as I think newbeatle mentioned)spider does not hit the plate on a 650.The INNER sheave on the KFX clutch has 2 angles.This leaves .040" gap between the two primary sheaves when fully compressed(the spider is hitting the plate).On a 650 with straight angle sheaves ,the sheaves hit together and the plate is still not hitting the spider. By allowing the sheaves to move .040 closer together,the belt goes approx .100 higher in the primary. There is plenty of room in the sec. clutch to allow for this.
4)The plate that Alltoys has is one of my prototypes and being the savy tuner he is,he will have fun experimenting. This plate is not as light as our production parts that will be available in a couple of weeks. The actual part will be lighter than the stock V cover,and much stronger. It also allows for less flex,and much better cooling.
5)the stock cover plate on these clutches is the thinnest I've seen(compared to snowmobile clutches).I opted not to modify this stock cover.I have seen it done on snowmobiles many times(and done it.I have seen them go through the hood and bellypan of sleds at the same time,usually taking the crank out with them).

 

Another note that some may be interested in is that when I put my V totally back to stock,the cover plate seems to be of little or no benefit. On a piped,lightly modded V,it will show a gain in mph on a road. But interesting enough,it seems that a stock V is better off to run out of belt travel(gearing)and overrev to acheive mph. It is almost like it gives it taller dearing too soon.Possibly going a long distance it may help,but it seems to be only beneficial when more power is there to pull the extra gearing.This cover is intended as a race mod option for the V force.

 

Here are some pics of the parts.

PIC 1

PIC 2

Thanks for clarifying what we were looking at this weekend, Helix. WAM and I had a P650 primary (in hand) and we were baffled at how the plate could help; as we noticed the sheaves hit before the spider would bottom out.