Unless you have some kind of scale that can read up to 13lbs you are probably not going to get the deflection perfect. LOL my finger method is probably terrible but its all I got. I never did get a chance to mess with mine today. Maybe tomorrow if the tach and springs dont come.

 

Go To The Bottom of this Page. Belt Tension Testers .
There are more expensive units out there but I think one of these will suit your purposes. We have folks on the job that think they can finger the difference between a couple of thousandths of an inch. NOT. Every time I see one feeling something and saying "Oh, that's about .012, maybe .015's". I go get the Starretts' and challenge it. The precision measuring equipment always wins.
These will aid you in being consistent.

 

I will have you know my finger is ISO 9002 certified!! LOL. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

That is a very interesting page BTW.

 

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.................................................. ...................I don't know what happened, but I lost my Identy today... couldn't log in, couldn't be e-mailed my log in info, they didn't know my e-mail address .... ahhhh. ATV withdrawls !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ROCK..., I didn't notice where the belt tension testers were from, but the pocket model looks pretty handy...I think I have a grainger catolog around here some where, I definately think it's worth really verifying the deflection with a measuring tool of somekind...

KOD... spring went out UPS today

come on, feed me some juicy ATV stuff, I've been suffering...LOL...WAM

 

MIKEYBOYESQ... has been questioning me about belt angles.... if you look at the 3 Kawasaki belt width measurements, the angle of the sides has to vary some, as the wide width measurement gets wider, but the narrow measurement remains the same... I proposed to him, that it would be interesting to document the clutch sheave angles at different stages of opening at the height on the sheaves that the belt would be at, with the different width belts ( I know, pretty technical, "but inquiring minds want to know" )... I really need some rainy weather both to settle the dust on the courses of my up coming races, & to afford me the "rainy day time" to continue with posting this information...

my "Tool & Die Guy" buddy, will begin my fly weight project soon... one thing I may want to have done, is make up one set of weights with a thinner profile... it is difficult to get the belt the length we need, with out being wider ( to keep function )... I may look at doing some machining in a different direction than where everyone else has gone in the past, on my spare primary... I need to get my primary to open wider, to use the belt I feel has the most promise for performance gains...the 1st bottleneck to opening the primary wider is the thickness of the fly weights, thus the thinner profile... next, it may require some machining ( not much ) on the fly weight pivot collars... alittle here is all I think I'll need to fit "properly" the 1.43" belt...more on that later

by the way KOD... my 12" ( **** ) is ISO 9003 certified as well, but I'm not sticking it down there...LOL... WAM

 

I think we need to find a snowmobile clutch god. Im sure one of these guys could figure it out. Has any one called EPI and asked for there two cents worth they most no about this problem. I think you will have good luck messing with the flyweights,thats what I was thinking about trying Good luck.

 

McMaster Carr is the catalog I used. Grainger has an online catalog also. We get discounts from both. Grainger being easier for me to get the best price, however I like McMaster Carr's site for shopping better.

 

SHOTGUN... have you gotten that Vette motor shoehorned in yet & had a chance to play with that belt at all yet...WAM

 

Posted by KIWI on another forum...

posted September 26, 2003 12:34 AM

I think you will find that a wider belt will not make much diference to top speed as the 4 pins in the rear converter which slide up & down the groves come to the end of the groves. All the belts are the same overall length. So it can't go any wider apart so the wider belt can't go as far into the rear converter & won't gear up the system. The stops on the front converter stop it going any closer together too. Even if you modify the stops on the front converter so it can go closer together. It can't go any further out on the front converter until the belt wears down & can move deaper into the rear converter. Modifying the front converter stops means you won't loose as much top speed as the belt wears. Hope this clears up some misconseptions on this matter.

Posts: 36 | From: New Zealand | Registered: May 28, 2003

KIWI... thanks for the post... we're all just starting to find out these things... I have verified the buttons in the helixes do keep the secondary from opening any wider... NYROC & I were talking about this on another forum... I think I'm going to take my old secondary, & have the helixes lengthened a few mm's to allow these wider belts to reach the bottom of the secondary ... I think then we will really see some belt magic... WAM

 

newbeatle,

The vette engine isn't in yet.