Hello,

I ordered a bunch of jets, an k&N, outerwear, and will be getting duals as well and would like to put them all on next week. But, I have a few questions.

1) Where does the bigger jet go? Front or back carb?
2) For the folks with the ram air or duel intake mods done on the air box, did you close off your uni vents?
3) Other than jetting, is there anyother adjustments that I need to make on my carb?
4) What signs should I be looking for when testing the new jets? Black smoke means rich, but other than looking for any hesitation etc.. What should my plugs look like?


Thanks a lot for all of your help.

 

1) I think the rear is bigger. You'll know for sure when you remove the stock jets.
2) no comment here. I dont think the ram air will increase airbox pressure (hint)
3) The pilot screw should be turned out to about 3.5 turns. Needles... ideally should be shimmed. I havent done that.
4) I test all my jetting against our raptor racing up sand mountain. Try to get more power.
To test the plug, warm up the engine. Put a new plug in. Drive WOT for a long time and kill the engine. You want to avoid black or white coloration. If you dont drive WOT, you are not testing the main jet. 1/2 throttle is more dependent on the needle setting. It's possible to have a lean 1/2 throttle and rich WOT etc.

 

1: Bigger in the back piston

2: Univents don't come stock. With the dual forward facing intakes, you are mostly getting cool freah air as opposed to any Ram Air effect but it is a good mod. Cheap too. The univents (if you already had them installed) can be closed, then set your jetting. If the ambient air temp warms up OR you go to a higher elevation, you can open them up to compensate for the less dense air.

3: Have the needles shaved back as they are rather blunt stock and will work better in giving a smoother transision going from low end to midrange. That is about it for the carbs

4: You won't see any black smoke unless you are on fire!!. I would jet up about 15 from your current jetting size if you go duals, K&N and dual forward snorkels.
If you are too lean, you will notice the bike give you a small acceleration AFTER you let the WOT off. To rich and the bike will fart and stutter when you mash the throtttle. The plugs should be a coffe with cream color when you are set right. The previous explanation of killing the throttle when WOT will show if you need to go up or down to achieve this color. I am getting some info as to what the piston wash should look like as well for the 4 stroke (if there is any)

5: IF you go with the duals/k&N/airbox, get the HPD plain and some 58 gram weights. The bike will now have the power to pull those weights and the result will be a much much better long, hard pull in acceleration

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XC800.....do the 58 gram weights make a big diff......I just rcvd my HPD plain....should I get weights?

 

YES!

If you get the Dalton weights, DPK 58 , they come with 2 holes drilled which will accept the Yamaha rivits so you can add or remove weight ( punch rivit in or drill out previously punched in rivit) to get the correct shift pattern you want. With dual pipes, these babies will make the bike pull harder and get that extra grunt on excelleration along with the HPD plain. The weights and spring work together (one applies opening force, the other closing force) so with the adjustable, you can tune for your riding type ie hill climbing, drags ect. If you ride a lot of sand you prob want to add no weight or the .6 gram rivits at most. I have said it before and I will say it again, The V with Duals/Daltons / HPD plain/and open up the breathing with K&N and second snorkel will absolutley SMOKE a stock V. You will be at the top of the hill, bike shut off, helmet/goggles removed sipp'in on a cool one when the stock V finally gets up . Ask Alltoys!!!!!