Do any of you know??????
#11
11-17-2003 | 05:30 PM
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From: Texas
Do any of you know??????
PW,
Now that I know the engine brake actuator slows down my P650, I would like to know how to wire up an on/off switch so that I can turn on the engine brake for those times when I need it (for steep downhill riding) and turn it off the rest of the time (for maximum acceleration). However, I'm guessing that simply turning the switch to "off" will probably make the 2wd/4wd indicator start flashing. In that case, I still need more info from Alltoys.
Happy trails...[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Now that I know the engine brake actuator slows down my P650, I would like to know how to wire up an on/off switch so that I can turn on the engine brake for those times when I need it (for steep downhill riding) and turn it off the rest of the time (for maximum acceleration). However, I'm guessing that simply turning the switch to "off" will probably make the 2wd/4wd indicator start flashing. In that case, I still need more info from Alltoys.
Happy trails...[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#12
11-17-2003 | 05:44 PM
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Do any of you know??????
Mikey, what Alltoys did was to remove the spring from the actuator rod inside the clutch cover. I'm not sure how a switch would work but I do know that everything functions just the way it's suppose to when you unplug the engine brake, just the 2wd 4wd flashing back and forth is anoying to me!
#13
11-17-2003 | 06:06 PM
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From: Texas
Do any of you know??????
PW,
I don't want to remove the spring from the actuator rod as Alltoys suggested b/c I still desire the engine brake system to function sometimes (like when I turn on a switch or something). I think the 2wd/4wd flashing would bug me too, so I hope that Alltoys can clear up that question so that I can wire a switch in and also avoid the 2wd/4wd flashing whenever my switch is turned "off".
I don't want to remove the spring from the actuator rod as Alltoys suggested b/c I still desire the engine brake system to function sometimes (like when I turn on a switch or something). I think the 2wd/4wd flashing would bug me too, so I hope that Alltoys can clear up that question so that I can wire a switch in and also avoid the 2wd/4wd flashing whenever my switch is turned "off".
#14
11-20-2003 | 07:04 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Texas
Do any of you know??????
ALLTOYS,
Above, you stated
Can I simply cut one of these 2 wires going to the actuator and install an on/off switch? Will this result in turning on the engine brake system when I need it (i.e., slow downhill trails) and then turning it off when I don't need the engine brake system? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img] MY REAL CONCERN IS WHETHER THE 2WD/4WD INDICATOR WILL START FLASHING WHILE THE SWITCH IS TURNED OFF (I WOULD LIKE TO AVOID THIS). Any thoughts?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
Above, you stated
The only time the braking system comes into effect is at low rpm settings. Cutting and connecting the wires will reset the actuator.
#16
11-23-2003 | 11:03 PM
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Do any of you know??????
MickeyBoyesq,
I have not installed a switch on the EBC as the spring makes constant contact with the bearing on the end plate of the clutch. The constant pressure is what slows down the quad even though the EBC is not working it still is in contact with the bearing. On take off and deceleration the fingers press heavier because of the EBC but the fingers are in constant contact with the bearing this is why you will not get any more speed on top. I found it easier to remove the spring/rod assembly rather than the cut the wires to the EBC especially to stop the flashing of the dash. I tried to cut the wires although found I did not get the performance that was produced by removing the spring/rod assembly. I am not sure how the EBC works you will have to experiment with a switch to see how it works. I am afraid I am not much help to you there I don't think there is an easy solution to have it on when needed and not for racing. I opt for removal when racing as it saves weight and the dash does not flash, then install for the weekend fun run.
I have not installed a switch on the EBC as the spring makes constant contact with the bearing on the end plate of the clutch. The constant pressure is what slows down the quad even though the EBC is not working it still is in contact with the bearing. On take off and deceleration the fingers press heavier because of the EBC but the fingers are in constant contact with the bearing this is why you will not get any more speed on top. I found it easier to remove the spring/rod assembly rather than the cut the wires to the EBC especially to stop the flashing of the dash. I tried to cut the wires although found I did not get the performance that was produced by removing the spring/rod assembly. I am not sure how the EBC works you will have to experiment with a switch to see how it works. I am afraid I am not much help to you there I don't think there is an easy solution to have it on when needed and not for racing. I opt for removal when racing as it saves weight and the dash does not flash, then install for the weekend fun run.
#17
11-24-2003 | 01:03 AM
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From: Texas
Do any of you know??????
Alltoys,
Thanx for your response. I don't know exactly how the engine brake actuator works and I had previously just assumed (incorrectly) that the fingers applied pressure to the primary pulley (or belt) only when activated (i.e., when rolling downhill at 8mph or less while eng. is at idle). Its interesting to know the actuator is putting at least some pressure/resistance on the primary pulley at all times while the engine running and transmission is engaged in high or low range.
Here's an idea I'm now kicking around based on the assumption that the engine brake actuator is a 3 position motor. For this purpose, I will assume that:
Position one keeps the fingers completely away from the pulley bearing while eng. is turned off;
Position two moves the fingers to the extent that they apply some minor pressure on the pulley bearing while eng. is running and transmission is engaged in high or low range; and
Position three moves the fingers to apply full pressure against the pulley bearing while rolling downhill at 8 mph or less while eng. is at idle.
My idea (actually, its an idea suggested by a non-quad riding friend of mine) is to replace the 3 position motor in the actuator with a 2 position motor (Position one and Position three only). In otherwords, by removing position two (see above) from the stock actuator motor, the constant pressure/resistence from the fingers will be eliminated. My theory is that this will increase the acceleration /top-speed of the quad while also allowing the engine brake system to work if needed. My main concern now is that I do not know if the constant pressure exerted under position two (see above) is necessary for the engine brake to function properly.
Anyone Have Any Thoughts??? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
Thanx for your response. I don't know exactly how the engine brake actuator works and I had previously just assumed (incorrectly) that the fingers applied pressure to the primary pulley (or belt) only when activated (i.e., when rolling downhill at 8mph or less while eng. is at idle). Its interesting to know the actuator is putting at least some pressure/resistance on the primary pulley at all times while the engine running and transmission is engaged in high or low range.
Here's an idea I'm now kicking around based on the assumption that the engine brake actuator is a 3 position motor. For this purpose, I will assume that:
Position one keeps the fingers completely away from the pulley bearing while eng. is turned off;
Position two moves the fingers to the extent that they apply some minor pressure on the pulley bearing while eng. is running and transmission is engaged in high or low range; and
Position three moves the fingers to apply full pressure against the pulley bearing while rolling downhill at 8 mph or less while eng. is at idle.
My idea (actually, its an idea suggested by a non-quad riding friend of mine) is to replace the 3 position motor in the actuator with a 2 position motor (Position one and Position three only). In otherwords, by removing position two (see above) from the stock actuator motor, the constant pressure/resistence from the fingers will be eliminated. My theory is that this will increase the acceleration /top-speed of the quad while also allowing the engine brake system to work if needed. My main concern now is that I do not know if the constant pressure exerted under position two (see above) is necessary for the engine brake to function properly.
Anyone Have Any Thoughts??? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
#18
11-24-2003 | 02:45 AM
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Do any of you know??????
MIckey,
I am almost sure that the actuator is an on or off unit so a 2 position actuator would not be necessary. It might be a thought instead of replacing the actuator but to move the rod further around to another position more to the left of its original spot. It would not put as much pressure against the bearing almost nill then exert the pressure as it would in the begining. Then if a switch were installed you could interupt the BEC when racing and not when riding in the bush. You would not have much as a braking control as before but would have more if it were disconnected totaly just a thought. You would just have to make a new rod and move the hole that puts pressure against the spring something to think about.
I am almost sure that the actuator is an on or off unit so a 2 position actuator would not be necessary. It might be a thought instead of replacing the actuator but to move the rod further around to another position more to the left of its original spot. It would not put as much pressure against the bearing almost nill then exert the pressure as it would in the begining. Then if a switch were installed you could interupt the BEC when racing and not when riding in the bush. You would not have much as a braking control as before but would have more if it were disconnected totaly just a thought. You would just have to make a new rod and move the hole that puts pressure against the spring something to think about.
