I was asked this question on another forum, & as I took the time to type it out, I thought I'd post it here as well, for anyone that has been following this, there really isn't anything new here, but for those new at modding, you may find some of this info helpful...

... you are begining to open a "pandora's box"... my modified Prairie, will now eat nearly any stock quad out there, & even lightly modified V Forces...

There are a lot of low buck fixes to squeeze more power / speed out of the Prairie, if you have the mechanical inclination to do them... for less than $200.00, you can insure that no local quad will touch yours... 3 - 4 things to do...

1st, a module... the DGR unit was one of the 1st ones out, & it is a 1st class unit, very reliable ( I still have a DGR unit in my quad )... however there are several newer, more refined units out there, including the High Lifter unit, that by fine tuning the frequency, have gotten some mid range & top end gains ( the earlier units, like the DGR unit, only offer low end increases )

2nd, a flywheel 4* - 6* timing advance key... this will advance the timing to what Kawasaki determined to be optimum, before they started to detune it to make it safer...

3rd, cams, or retard the cam timing by 10* ( not the same as engine ignition timing )... this will give you the equivilent to installing V Force cams ( the V force cams have the same grind, just are set to be timed differently )...

2 adjustments & a module, & you'll have a ripper ( you will probably need to rejet at this point, so a snorkle, air filter, & muffler mod would be in order at this point to maximize the results )...

the 360 / 700 belts will offer a more durable belt, & 1-2 more mph top speed...

the new CDI's will offer advanced timing, & increased rev limit, so they ( being plug & play ), would take the place of the module, & the flywheel degree key... they also hold the peak timing all the way to the rev limit, unlike the stock CDI, which begins to retard the timing, long before the rev limit, in an attempt to make the quad safer, by limiting top speed, or at least slowing the acceration at the top end, requiring a very long distance to be able to attain top speed... however the extended rev limit, will not do you any good, if you haven't replaced the cams, or retimed them, as listed above... ( getting the quad to reach the existing rev limit, & the increasing the rev limit of the new CDI, is the only way to get more top speed out of the Prairie, if the cams have been replaced or retimed, & after the belt is changed, ( with out doing special machining to the primary clutch ), as the clutches are already fully shifted out long before even the stock rev limit is reached...

this being said, if you are unwilling to retime or change out the cams, if you do the flywheel timing key, & a module, you will likely see about the same performance increase, as installing the new CDI on a stock quad... likely costs are around $110.00 for one of the modules, & $10 - $15 for the flywheel key, as opposed to the estimated $250 - $300 for the new CDI...

then of course you could always install a big bore kit, like the FST 750 cc kit, ( the Four Stroke Tech kit comes with very radical cams, which don't require any cam timing change ), & flow the heads... added along with some of these other mods, like I have, & you'll shock the he!! out of sport quad riders who find them selves looking into the tail pipe of a utility quad... ( nothing like the look on that factory Polaris guy's face ( on a new Preditor ), when my quad ate him alive in a 200 ft informal drag... needless to say, he didn't want to go 2 out of 3 ...LOL

yep, a "pandora's box"... I wonder whats next ???

 

Thanx for the hot tips newbeatle, folks like you help to keep this forum #1. Those of us without the big P's though are still looking and searching for a bit more increase. We love our 360's but would like to see a little more top end. Mine runs like a champ down low and mid, but cant seem to get anything more at topend. Were did you find info about determining where Kaw states about 4-6 degree timing advance?? Would this apply to a 360?? For the cost, would you recommend that I just install the key and see what happens???(I will probably be doing this anyway unless someone determines I will hurt something or not see any gain)

Your advice will be appreciated.

 

OMM... I think I heard somewhere, that the 360 is retarded the same way, in the ignition, as it's big brother ( I most likely heard this from ALLTOY"S, REDS650, PRAIRIE633, or one of the others doing research on the modules / ignitions )... I don't know is the optimum timing ( heard 33*, for the V Twin ), would be the same for the 360 single ??? personally I'd go ahead & install a 4*-6* key, to see... you may find that you need higher octane gas, but don't think it would hurt anything to try it... I also don't know if the keyway is the same size, or close enough to use the 650 / 700 keys... but at $11.00 each it won't break you to try it... I would think the 360 could also benifit by retarding the cam timing, like the 650 / 700, as well ??? maybe by putting this in print, someone that knows better than I do, will chime in ???

 

OK guys - I have GREATLY enjoyed reading all of the post from the crazed mod addicts. I don't plan on turning into a huge mod-head like some of you but who knows - I am already checking this forum daily. Here is my situtation, I have a new 03 p650 and I love the damn thing - great power and a ton of fun to ride. I have been thinking about some minor mods - like getting more air to the engine and then getting it out faster w/ a pipe that has some throat to it but not too much to pi$$ off the neighbors. If I were going to start off small in regards to mods, how can I get more air to the engine besides a twin air filter and then what is a good pipe to get it out faster? And if I do add a diff pipe all the way to the head will I need to rejet the carb(s). I don't think I want to start on all the mods listed in the original thread - primarily because I dont know if i could do them. I am somewhat mechanically inclined (do my own maintenance of my trucks and cars but nothing major like an engine overhaul) - I am going to pick up a factory repair manual for my p650 soon - which should help me get to know more about this bike. Thanks in advance for ALL of the great info!

 

IMO, the biggest restriction to air flow through your engine, is the stock intake snorkle ( it is reduced at its smallest point, to about the size of a golf ball )... you can do a search for NAPA part #, to replace that restrictive stock snorkle with a similarly shaped radiator hose, or order the Diamond G Racing's intake snorkle... while you are searching, look up NYROC's muffler mod... basically you cut off the back end of the muffler, drill holes through all the baffles ( 6-8 3/8" holes, for example ), then reweld the end cap back on... you can control the volume of your exhaust by the number & size of the holes drilled ... again, IMO, an aftermarket full exhaust system, is the highest dollar per horse power gain, mod that you can do to your quad... ( though I do love the way my Pendland series Big Gun sounds... )

 

Welcome to the forum. I had never done any of things before I started Mod Crazy. Jets are the easiest thing in the world. Do some searches and find some pics and it will help a lot. Some say you may have trouble getting the float bowl screws off because of over tighten. Mine came right off. The DG snorkel was easy to do. The directions were easy enough, you have to take the air box out\off in order to get to the clamps. There is a NAPA hose equivalent if you do the search. I just added an Suppertrapp IDSX exhaust system last night. It sounds great and runs hard. I was concerned about the noise. I had done the Nyroc mod to the pipe and accidentally cut a small hole in the side with the drill bit. It was very load. It also melted some plastic under by the storage box. The new pipe is very easy to put on, took an hour, maybe. Its loader than stock but not very much. It has a deeper tone more than a loader tone. Noise level is hard to explain. I would have liked mine to be a little loader. But when you ride at night quite is good. The old pipe came real easy because I have a saw saz. I hope some of this helps you. There are some very smart guys in here and I’m not one of them, but do a search and then ask the question someone will step up and try to help.


DG Holeshot
DG Snorkel
K&N Filter
Dial-A-Jet
Supertrapp IDSX exhaust
Primary Dalton Plain\white spring
Secondary EPI black spring
P-700 Belt
ITP 589's on C's
Warn 2500 winch
Headlight mod
Rear backup light

 

Great post newbeatle!

I would add porting the heads to my list of mods. It's not very expensive and will help quite a bit on 360/650/700. If you need a contact for the porting PM me, but you can probably find someone locally without too much trouble. I wouldn't get too concerned about having it on a flow bench if you haven't done much more in the way of mods.

Peace,
Sgt_Rock

 

I talked to 3 different flow bench techs, before having mine done, & the general consenses was that I would see as much as a 20% increase in performance / flow, by having the heads done... while I still think that this figure is a bit optomistic, I think it made a very noticable difference...

 

I agree with you, 20% seems pretty optomistic. I haven't done a dyno comparision, so I could be wrong.

Peace,
Sgt_Rock

 

Good post guys;

Next is alky, then NOS

Starting to get some good mods out there...

Don't forget clutching....Dalton Indurtries.