The CDI is what provides the fire, timing, etc. to the engine. Think of it as the points, distributer, etc. for the ATV but it is all electronic. It also does other things such as control the reverse limiter, the rev limiter, the security feature on the key switch.

The stock CDI limits what timing the engine gets to keep it from being too dangerous, I suppose. The new CDI won't have those limitations and will allow the engine to reach it's full potential that it was designed for. Having the timing limited, or retarded, isn't really all that great for the engine to begin with and can also cause the engine to run hotter. The modules only take away the timing retard at the bottom end, but will still only let the timing advance to a certain point. Even if you weren't looking for all of that power, having a CDI that didn't limit the timing would still be better for your engine.

 

Thanks for the reply. Who sells these CDIs? How much? Can you install at home?

 

It's not sold yet, but should be in the next couple of months and should be between $200 and $300, guestimating. As far as ease of installing, it will be the simplest mod you can do. Remove your seat, unplug and then remove the stock CDI. Then install and plug in the new CDI and replace your seat. Should not take much more than 5 minutes to change out and will be mod with probably the biggest improvement to your ATV.

Only thing about it is that it won't have a reverse limiter, so you will need to be careful that you don't slam into a tree if you hit the throttle too hard in reverse. And you will be left with a reverse override button that will be there for decorative purposes only. I don't have a problem with that at all, because I hate mashing that button to get more power in reverse. BUT, I wish the new CDI would have that security feature for the key switch. At stock, your ATV cannot be hot wired because the CDI reads the key switch and won't give fire to the engine if not coming from the switch. With the new CDI, it can be hot wired. I've talked to others who have said "so what, that's what insurance is for". But I have had one stolen before and had to wait awhile before the insurance paid and it still cost me several hundred bucks for the depreciated value of my stolen one. It is a good feeling knowing that someone can't hot wire mine and if they stole it without the key, they're out of luck (unless they buy the new CDI).

 

Rebel
Just add a hidden kill switch.

 

If this CDI isn't available, Then how is it that there is so much known about it? What company will be selling it in april?

 

Dynatech is the company producing the new CDI. They have been producing motorcycle/atv ignitions for years and are a very respected company.

They pre-released a version of the CDI to some riders for testing and suggestions. One of those riders just happens to be Sgt. Rock, who frequents this site and was kind enough to pass on all known info about the CDI. It can be found at the link below.

http://home.comcast.net/~raptor2/dynatek1.htm

 

BrianT,

I read the link to your reply. I am running at sea-level; will rejetting be necessary?

 

Customfabandweld

I was under the impression from the little bit I've read that deg*ing the cams didn't require removing them from the head, just rotating them to change their orientation. Changing the cams would require a lot more work I'm assuming like adjusting valves and such.

Yes I have some money to do several upgrades but it is limited and I'm dividing it into improving the performance and the suspension. Obviously the suspension will take the biggest chunck leaving about $300 to $400 for engine mods.

Right now I have the cash and the time but running out of patience waiting for the CDI if you know what I meen. Thats why I'm concidering doing the cam deg. and key now. I'm willing to accept the loss of the price of the key when the CDI make it useless but the time and effort required to do the cams twice if not compatible with the CDI instalation at a later date will be tougher to swallow.

 

Can you wait 45 days? ( they are in production now.) That's what dynatech sales dept told me today.

 

I guess you would have to adjust the valves, and take the cam sprocket of the old cam, and put it on the new cam. That's really not all that much more work. Buit if you've got only $300-400 to work with, I would stick with the CDI. I, too, am waiting for it's release!