Now that I have run my CDI for a little while, I have determined that I am a little lean. Get an occasional pop on deceleration. I looked at the carbs yesterday and thought "hell, if I am going to re-jet, I might as well do the NAPA hose and muffler mod, THEN re-jet.

Which leads me to my two questions: First of all, I have never seen the hose. I assume that is much larger than the stock "snorkle" that is on the 700 now. From what I read on here, I am simply going to replace this "snorkle" with the larger hose. But I will still have the same size hole going into the airbox, right? Will the bigger hose still make a big diffrence even though the air still has to pass through the small restriction as it enters the box? Also, do I need to do anything to that vertical "wall" of plastic that all of the incoming air is going to hit, or does it help somehow with turbulence or directing the air?

Secondly, with the new CDI, the modded intake, and the muffler mod (6 3/8" holes?), doe sanyone have a clue what I should jet at. I was going to go 142/145 with just the CDI - seems to be what works for the majority of people. But with all three mods, should I go ahead and go 145/148 with maybe a little needle shim? I am basically at sea level - south Arkansas. Maybe 200'.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

And since my wife's 700 is still stock, I was going to run mine against hers with the CDI only, then with the CDI and airbox mod, then again with all 3 mods to give you guys more data on which mod makes how much difference. I will also keep up with what I change when on my jetting to keep it right. I can easily measure off a given distance and drag them against each other. I also have 2 GPS units, so I can get a true max speed each time. Anything else you guys can think of that would be helpful to everyone?

 

2700s,

Sounds like good comparisons. Will be especially interesting with the mods. Keep us posted.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

2-700's... here is a list of the part numbers for the hoses

Napa 7335:
Gates 20523
Dayco 70608
Goodyear 60741
DGR snorkle

about an inch from the outside tip of the snorkle, it tapers down to about the size of a golf ball... this is the main restriction... all of the listed hoses & DGR snorkle keep that baseball sized hole from the filter box to the out side end... this is how they flow more air... IMO, the DGR will flow more air, more smoothly ( less turbulance ), than the hoses, but any performance gains would be marginal between the snorkle & the hoses...

If you cut out the baffle, keep in mind, that it is not solid, & the way it is injection molded, it will leave holes through your filterbox walls, that will have to be repaired ... I have a custom induction system, & I found this out, drilling 1" holes in my baffle... I used silicone to seal it up, but IMO, I'd leave it in... it's purpose is to stop any water that may find it's way into the snorkle, before it reaches your filter & carbs... there are several forum members that have reported that they had water in there, ( on the upstream side of the baffle ), after wet muddy races, etc... I think the DGR snorkle includes a drain as well, which would automatically remove any water from this area...

 

Newbeatle, Any advice on the jetting? I am thinking 145/148 with .020"-.030" of shim under the needles. This is based solely on what others have said they've done. I have zero jetting experience with quads or motorcycles.

 

That should be a good place to start, if you do the snorkle & exhaust as well... I run a custom induction system & Dial-a-jets, along with a big bore kit & Big Gun exhaust, so I'm not a good one to use for an example...

 

A pop on decelleration usually means you are rich on the idle circuit. Trying adjusting the pilot jets.

How do your plugs look after a plug chop? Use that as a starting guide to jetting.

 

I guess I might be making too big of a deal out of trying to get the jetting perfect the first time I do it. Myself, like many others out there, have no experience so far with jetting one of these machines.

I know this has probably been covered a thousand times, but rejetting is bound to become a very hot topic as people buy up these new CDI's. Maybe I should approach it this way:

Do I have to /Should I remove the carbs from the bike to rejet?

What else has to be removed to do this job? Plastic? Airbox? Other stuff?

How long should it take someone with decent mechanical ability?

If this only takes an hour or so to do, then I'm just beating this to death worrying about trying to get it right the first time.

So, what's involved?

 

Here's a few tips that I found on the atv forums which came in handy when I rejetted my P650 a few weeks ago.

First, BE PREPARED FOR THE (VERY SOFT) STOCK CARB BOWL SCREWS TO STRIP OUT! Go to Lowes/home depot/etc and buy yourself 8 replacement screws (can't recall the exact size at the moment, but run a search and you will find it)...preferably get the screws with the end cap that fits an allen head wrench. Also, buy some new sharp screw drivers to remove the stock screws and get a pair of needle-nose vice grips in case the stock screws scrip out. BTW, I stripped 4 of my 8 stock screws trying to remove them on the first try!

Second, you don' t have to remove the carbs from the cylinders...at least, I didn't have to do that. I did find it helpful to remove the CVT cover and other items so that I could better reach the stock carb bowl screws.

Third, take your time and try your best not to strip them out...it took me at least an hour or two b/c I stipped out 4 of the screws and had to remove lots of stuff to get to the carb bowls better and remove the stripped out screws.

Good luck!

 

2Prairies here is the Autozone part # for that hose as well, Kelly Springfield L-395, it's $6.99 here for it.

 

I bought the Dayco 70608 hose. It's NOT the right one, although I was able to make use of it on my Prairie. It wasn't shaped like an "S", it was shaped like a "C". I cut the factory snorkle off just ahead of the water trap and joined about 5" of the Dayco 70608 to it. Worked good in this fashion.