I've had enough. It's going to the Dyno!
#1
04-07-2004, 08:54 PM
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I've had enough. It's going to the Dyno!
This jetting is getting the best of me. I'm running out of time, I got a family vacation leaving sunday for 10 days, a dice run I want to ride on the 24th and then we're going to Windrock tennesee on the 28th for 5 days. So I need to get running better before then I hate to spend the cash but atleast it will be right.
And I'm in NJ now until friday for work aaarrrgghhhh[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]
It costs $100 per hr for tunning on the dyno. They say it takes an hr or 2. I'm going to leave it on saturday while I'm on vacation with a $300 limit and be done with it.
I'm sending it there with the nyroc muffler mod, napa hose, stock filter, 142f 145r, screws at 3 1/2 turns out. Hopfully I will recieve my cdi before then as well.
Any advise? Trust me results will be posted asap!
And I'm in NJ now until friday for work aaarrrgghhhh[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]
It costs $100 per hr for tunning on the dyno. They say it takes an hr or 2. I'm going to leave it on saturday while I'm on vacation with a $300 limit and be done with it.
I'm sending it there with the nyroc muffler mod, napa hose, stock filter, 142f 145r, screws at 3 1/2 turns out. Hopfully I will recieve my cdi before then as well.
Any advise? Trust me results will be posted asap!
#2
04-07-2004, 09:01 PM
#3
04-07-2004, 09:04 PM
I've had enough. It's going to the Dyno!
i assume you tried the next size higher 145f 148r. when i modded my air box and installed my pipes i had to jump up to 148f 150r try going up a size bro and leave those pilot screws alone go up to 145f 148r i wouldnt waste ya money on a dyno run with just those mods jets are cheap so buy like the next 3 sizes larger they only take 10 minutes to change
#4
04-07-2004, 09:06 PM
I've had enough. It's going to the Dyno!
DON'T pay for Dyno & tuning UNTIL your CDI is installed! From my experience - based on your mods, you will have a little more carb "tweaking" needed for optimum performance after the CDI is installed.
Hopefully you can find someone nearby to get running OK till then?
Hopefully you can find someone nearby to get running OK till then?
#5
04-07-2004, 09:47 PM
#6
04-07-2004, 10:29 PM
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I've had enough. It's going to the Dyno!
Vforcestan
It keeps popping through the carb at about 1/4 throttle. There's no problem with going to wot but riding steady at around 20 mph it pops at won't maintain a consistent speed and it will only go 51 mph. Also it starts and idles ok. Based on all the research I've done I think the problem is at the point when the fuel transitions from the pilot circuit to the main because on either side of it it runs fine. Maybe it's to lean at that needle position?
Rkhard
I may try that I only put in what the majority of people are running with these mods at my elevation. The plug looks rich enough but it doesn't sputter on the top.
Prairie700
My creditcard was billed today for the cdi so I'm assuming it shipped today. I paid the few extra bucks to get 3 day shipping, would be here friday if weren't for the holiday. Maybe monday? It's not going in until I get the cdi.
Mudmagnet
Thanks for the offer I will take you up on that. It will be nice to have a local show us around. PM me with your number and I'll call you.
I've been messing with it when ever I got a chance for the past 3 weeks trying to test ride up and down the street as little as posible. Could not get it right so I put it all back to stock 138f, 142r, no shims and stock snorkle but the exhaust is still modded obviously. No popping but rode on saturday and could not go over 51 mph, wheelies great and pulles hard up to 50 mph and thats it.
These are going to my only mods (I know everbody ays that until they get beat) I just want it to run the best it can and then ride the wheels off the thing.
It keeps popping through the carb at about 1/4 throttle. There's no problem with going to wot but riding steady at around 20 mph it pops at won't maintain a consistent speed and it will only go 51 mph. Also it starts and idles ok. Based on all the research I've done I think the problem is at the point when the fuel transitions from the pilot circuit to the main because on either side of it it runs fine. Maybe it's to lean at that needle position?
Rkhard
I may try that I only put in what the majority of people are running with these mods at my elevation. The plug looks rich enough but it doesn't sputter on the top.
Prairie700
My creditcard was billed today for the cdi so I'm assuming it shipped today. I paid the few extra bucks to get 3 day shipping, would be here friday if weren't for the holiday. Maybe monday? It's not going in until I get the cdi.
Mudmagnet
Thanks for the offer I will take you up on that. It will be nice to have a local show us around. PM me with your number and I'll call you.
I've been messing with it when ever I got a chance for the past 3 weeks trying to test ride up and down the street as little as posible. Could not get it right so I put it all back to stock 138f, 142r, no shims and stock snorkle but the exhaust is still modded obviously. No popping but rode on saturday and could not go over 51 mph, wheelies great and pulles hard up to 50 mph and thats it.
These are going to my only mods (I know everbody ays that until they get beat) I just want it to run the best it can and then ride the wheels off the thing.
#7
04-07-2004, 10:52 PM
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#8
04-07-2004, 11:02 PM
I've had enough. It's going to the Dyno!
Well...that top speed does concern me. Having the mains off by even 3 sizes will not kill the top end that bad. I would look for that problem elsewere. I jetted mine to 160R/158F and it slowed down only 3 mph(front fender on...read on).
I have tuned a few Prairie's and my Vforce. I am using the DG Snorkel on my P700. That thing really allows more air and SCREWED up my mixture settings. It killed my top end and I struggled to get it right. But again...it dropped to 64......from 71. I have cams. But you have lost 14. I had my front fender off and the DG Snorkel was RAM AIR(caused a major lean condition). Again, Im trying to illustrate the extreme lean condition and the result. Your 650 should be know were near this. You need to look at your belt and clutching. Air box restriction. Do you have alot of miles?
I just tuned my brothers 02 P650. DG snorkel but with a stock pipe. It hesitated while cruising at 30mph or so. He had the dreaded popping in the front cylinder. I held my hand on the intakes to see which one was the culprit. I turned the mixture screw 1/2 turn at a time till it was gone. The cruising hesitation was solved by needle shim. As much as I think that practice is half ***, it did work. Yes, you have a lean problem transitioning from the pilot circuit to the needle tip or 1/4 throttle. Your slides are near closed and you are using primarily your pilot circuits. You then transition to the needle tip and TAPER plays a huge role on fuel curve...not delivery. Stay away from Dynojet.
If you are cranked out on your pilots...with a stock pipe and you are still lean, this leads me to belive you may have some dirt that worked its way into the bleed holes plugging the pilot circuit. Get a can of carb cleaner and go nuts.
Take the cover off and look at your clutch. Maybe a worn belt. That one is hard to diagnose without the machine being in front of me. You would have to correct that problem first before taking to the dyno anyway. Let me know.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]
I have tuned a few Prairie's and my Vforce. I am using the DG Snorkel on my P700. That thing really allows more air and SCREWED up my mixture settings. It killed my top end and I struggled to get it right. But again...it dropped to 64......from 71. I have cams. But you have lost 14. I had my front fender off and the DG Snorkel was RAM AIR(caused a major lean condition). Again, Im trying to illustrate the extreme lean condition and the result. Your 650 should be know were near this. You need to look at your belt and clutching. Air box restriction. Do you have alot of miles?
I just tuned my brothers 02 P650. DG snorkel but with a stock pipe. It hesitated while cruising at 30mph or so. He had the dreaded popping in the front cylinder. I held my hand on the intakes to see which one was the culprit. I turned the mixture screw 1/2 turn at a time till it was gone. The cruising hesitation was solved by needle shim. As much as I think that practice is half ***, it did work. Yes, you have a lean problem transitioning from the pilot circuit to the needle tip or 1/4 throttle. Your slides are near closed and you are using primarily your pilot circuits. You then transition to the needle tip and TAPER plays a huge role on fuel curve...not delivery. Stay away from Dynojet.
If you are cranked out on your pilots...with a stock pipe and you are still lean, this leads me to belive you may have some dirt that worked its way into the bleed holes plugging the pilot circuit. Get a can of carb cleaner and go nuts.
Take the cover off and look at your clutch. Maybe a worn belt. That one is hard to diagnose without the machine being in front of me. You would have to correct that problem first before taking to the dyno anyway. Let me know.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]
#9
04-08-2004, 07:47 AM
I've had enough. It's going to the Dyno!
"It keeps popping through the carb at about 1/4 throttle"
You're too lean at low throttle positions. This has nothing to do with the main jets.
1. Adjust the Air/Fuel screws (Richer) using the RPM method (unless you have an exhaust gas anylizer handy).
2. If you're still popping through the carbs after you've optimized the idle Air/Fuel settings - Then it's time to add shim under the needles. Remember that 0.040 shim represents one "standard" clip position on a typical adjustable needle, so any shim less than 0.020 is wasting your time. Try 0.030 - 0.040 first.
You're too lean at low throttle positions. This has nothing to do with the main jets.
1. Adjust the Air/Fuel screws (Richer) using the RPM method (unless you have an exhaust gas anylizer handy).
2. If you're still popping through the carbs after you've optimized the idle Air/Fuel settings - Then it's time to add shim under the needles. Remember that 0.040 shim represents one "standard" clip position on a typical adjustable needle, so any shim less than 0.020 is wasting your time. Try 0.030 - 0.040 first.
#10
04-09-2004, 12:43 AM
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I've had enough. It's going to the Dyno!
grnbomb
I removed the storage compartment from under the rear rack and put a 2+ gallon reserve tank there. If you arae interested PM me your address I have a print, parts list and photos to send if you are interested.
Vforcestan
I only have 300 miles and I checked the belt width and adjustment first thing I noticed the speed loss since this is where I would be limited speed wise mechanically. All was OK. Also my exhaust has the nyroc mod, not stock (6 3/8). I like the trick about feeling the pulse in the intake, I'll have to try that.
I'm home from NJ early so I have all day friday to play with it and do some banzi runs through the neighborhood[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Wish me luck.
I removed the storage compartment from under the rear rack and put a 2+ gallon reserve tank there. If you arae interested PM me your address I have a print, parts list and photos to send if you are interested.
Vforcestan
I only have 300 miles and I checked the belt width and adjustment first thing I noticed the speed loss since this is where I would be limited speed wise mechanically. All was OK. Also my exhaust has the nyroc mod, not stock (6 3/8). I like the trick about feeling the pulse in the intake, I'll have to try that.
I'm home from NJ early so I have all day friday to play with it and do some banzi runs through the neighborhood[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Wish me luck.