After an 80 + mile ride this weekend with 10 good friends I can tell you the my replacement Dyna does not kick back or knock anymore. I do have more power than the stock cdi and brought it along just in case and for testing. I see where some testing has taken place at the drag strip but honestly believe that something was wrong with the dg3 tested either with connections or possibly a bad one. There were two dg3 equipped Prairies along on the ride one 03 650 and a 700 and I was on my Dyna equipped 700 [time to retire my tired 650 lol]. All of us raced many times and the dg3 700 always won the race and we tried it with many different riders. The dg3 650 was never more than a quad length or two behind in everyrace as well. It was a hot humid day and the dg3 fans ran much less than my fan. I am not trying to bash or praise just giving my findings.
Pumpingpremium

 

Pumpingpremium - it's time to check your jetting; if your running a CDI that gives 5 degrees over the stock advance and it's running hotter than the same machine with a module, you have other issues at hand. There is NOTHING that any module can do to get the timing advance beyond the stock 28 degrees. That's why DGR wants people to install an advance key along with the DG3. That's the only way it can approach the performance of an aftermarket CDI, and you still would have to put up with the lower rev limiter and the timing retardation above 6800 rpm's.
I run a 6 degree key and a homegrown reds650 module, my fan runs 1/3 of the time of a stock machine.

 

Novakaw,I'm glad you posted the first part about increased timing and running hotter,Its about time someone did.More ignition timing DOES NOT make engines run cooler.Adding ignition timing increases combustion temps. add too much timing and you get to detonation and trouble starts. Add as much as you can get away with and you will notice more power. You often need better fuel with a substantial amount of timing to stop detonation.
Adding timing to the engine makes a hotter chamber..and a cooler pipe. (the ignition starts earlier and burns in the chamber insted of the pipe). retarded IGNition timing burns hotter in the pipe as it starts burning later. Some of this stuff about engines running cooler with ignition timing is a bunch of crap.If someone gets it in their head that the fan runs less..it is more likely to be related to a bit cooler pipe,but I doubt that it is very noticable.
I like timing...and power.....but tired of people saying how much cooler their engine runs,just because someone else said theirs did. Maybe borrow a heat gun and see what is real?...

 

I agree 100% with the "who gets the jump first". When Paul "aka nyroc" and I drag raced our P650s whoever got the jump finished first. He ran the "TEST" dynatek cdi that sgtrock had and I still had the old DG Holeshot module. We raced 350' on dirt. I cant lie about it or nyroc would contradict me.

 

anyone know how to disconnect the kebc

 

RINCON... sorry, saw you posted the same question yesterday... there are several things people are doing... the easiest is to either just pull the fuse, or unplug the 4 wire KBEC plug ( located behind or around the CVT exhaust boot )... this would work fot temperary, to see if you like it... it may not offer full benifits, & the display will flash 2 X 4 / 4 X 4, indicating a KBEC fault... if you think you want to leave it disconnected for an extended amount of time, you can pull the KBEC fork, that goes from the actuator, to contact the primary cover bearing ( to do this, requires removing the clip on the fork, from inside the belt cover, then removing the 4 bolts, to remove the actuator from the belt cover... you should now be able to remove the fork, then reinstall the actuator, & rehook the wiring, or reinstall the fuse )... this method will return your display back to normal... there are also people installing the V Force belt cover, which removes the belt trip switch, & the KBEC actuator completely ( the V Force cover also has a drain hole )... instalation is more involed, & removing the flashing lights on the display currently requires cutting a wire that eliminates the 2 X 4 / 4 X 4 indicator on the display... I recommend pulling the fork, for most people...

 

Gotta put my two sense in---with the 360, i would have thought if disconnecting the KEBC I would definitely notice any performance increase---I didnt notice anything, either at top speed or on takeoff---I was a little suprised on exactly what the KEBC does though, only works at real slow speeds, and I could definitely live without it if i would've noticed an improvement--------If my bearing ever goes bad, i dont think I will replace it, I will probly just disconnect it.

 

MOSES... 2 questions for ya ...

did you remove the KBEC fork, or only unplug or pull the fuse on the KBEC system... IMO, if there is really any added benifit to pulling the KBEC, it is likely much more evident, by eliminating the friction between the fork, & the bearing, I'd recommend pulling the fork, if you haven't...

do you want to try a module still ??? I'll send you my Nabor module to try, if you want to give it a shot... ( I'd offer up one of the others, but since we don't know if it could damage your CDI, or the module ( unlikely, but possible ), I'd rather risk that one 1st )... if so, P.M. me your snail mail addy, & I'll get it off to you...

 

Nope---didnt disconnect the fork---just pulled the plug---If anyone is sure of a performance increase I will consider pulling the fork---like I said, with the KEBC unpluged, I could live without it for an increase in power---Looks like maybe I will just have to disconnect fork myself and see---Havent had anything apart in almost two weeks so I better get busy lol.
I am ready for a module newbeatle---check your pm for my address

 

Guys, something has me confused about the DG3 and DG holeshot.......The Holeshot gave a better time, OK I can live with that as far as this test goes, the DG3 is supposed to be a little better, but my question is this..... these modules cannot give over 28 degrees of timing by themselves, and if the Holeshot tricks the CDI into giving 28 from idle on up, and the DG3 fools the CDI into giving the same 28 degrees, then how is it better, your only getting 28 degrees either way....28 degrees is 28 degrees any way you look at it, so they should perform the same shouldn't they? now if a module could somehow raise the timing then that is a nother story, but they don't, so, how could one really be faster than another if they are all fooling the CDI and advancing to 28 degrees from WOT at idle on up??????????????