650 Owners..KEEP CHECKING THAT FRT MOTOR MT BOLT!
#11
650 Owners..KEEP CHECKING THAT FRT MOTOR MT BOLT!
Ok.....I was not aware there was an inner.I guess I could have checked the manual.....the one I replaced is the 92049-1573.That one does not require the nut removal.I am not sure the inner would be the problem.After writing this I looked in the manual......I don't see the inner???? now that I think about it if there was I wonder how the oil would start draining out if there were??? This replacement bascially requires a small screwdriver and a small hammer.I just can't figure what the dealer is telling you...[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img].....Make sure he checks that eng block by prying under it in the front to see if there is movement!.Just checking the bolt tightness will not get it.Sorry to be so negative but I DO NOT trust most of those monkeys working in the dealers.
02 650 camo
02 650 camo
#12
650 Owners..KEEP CHECKING THAT FRT MOTOR MT BOLT!
My dealer had to drill it out and put a much bigger bolt in, under warranty.
At first they tried to shim it but that didn't work, it was gringing under stressload in low range and the shifter was being throw off. The neutral light would not come on until I shoved up/forward on it.
Just signs to look for and a bigger bolt seemed to fix the problem.
I wonder if the Brute has a bigger front motor mount?
At first they tried to shim it but that didn't work, it was gringing under stressload in low range and the shifter was being throw off. The neutral light would not come on until I shoved up/forward on it.
Just signs to look for and a bigger bolt seemed to fix the problem.
I wonder if the Brute has a bigger front motor mount?
#13
650 Owners..KEEP CHECKING THAT FRT MOTOR MT BOLT!
I know what you mean about the monkeys. I don't trust nor like the dealership, but I do like this mechanic. When I bring it in for work I walk straight past the service counter to his stall. He writes up the paper work and does the work for me. If he is not there I turn around and walk out and check again later. I talked to him at lunch and he is going to check the motor mounts and give the rest of the quad a good going over.
If you look at the parts diagram on Kawasaki.com under front drive shaft (which shows the front diff not the propeller shaft) you can see the inner seal and the coupling.
If you look at the parts diagram on Kawasaki.com under front drive shaft (which shows the front diff not the propeller shaft) you can see the inner seal and the coupling.
#14
650 Owners..KEEP CHECKING THAT FRT MOTOR MT BOLT!
Has anyone actually had that bolt out????.....is the hole in the block that much larger than the bolt?? If so maybe a
sleeve or a bushing of some sort could be made?? MG...if they take the bolt out try and make note of whats in there.
02 650 camo
sleeve or a bushing of some sort could be made?? MG...if they take the bolt out try and make note of whats in there.
02 650 camo
#15
650 Owners..KEEP CHECKING THAT FRT MOTOR MT BOLT!
There is an inner seal behind the nut and washer. I have both on order and will hopefully receive them by Friday, I will post my efforts but it seems fairly straight forward aside from not having much room to work with. If you want to see the inner seal it's in section 11-30 of your service manual, it is the only drawing on that page the rest are pictures. Or take the link to the kawi parts diagram go to the Drive Shaft-Front section. The seals are in the bottom right hand side of the diagram.
Thanks for your posts
Cheers
http://www.buykawasaki.com/Default.asp?
Thanks for your posts
Cheers
http://www.buykawasaki.com/Default.asp?
#16
650 Owners..KEEP CHECKING THAT FRT MOTOR MT BOLT!
The hole gets made larger when the bolt is loose. There is really no point in putting a larger bolt in or a bushing unless the bushing is press fit and is also slightly wider than the block. That would make it work very well.
Basically, all bike engines would have this problem (off road ones are worse) if the bolt is loose.
The frame is welded together a little too wide in that area, so when you clamp the bolt down, it doesn't actually squeeze against the block very well.
If you put in a bigger bolt, it may clamp tighter with more force. That may help. If you heat the frame in a way to allow it to move a little in the right direction, that might help too.
Basically, all bike engines would have this problem (off road ones are worse) if the bolt is loose.
The frame is welded together a little too wide in that area, so when you clamp the bolt down, it doesn't actually squeeze against the block very well.
If you put in a bigger bolt, it may clamp tighter with more force. That may help. If you heat the frame in a way to allow it to move a little in the right direction, that might help too.
#18
650 Owners..KEEP CHECKING THAT FRT MOTOR MT BOLT!
thats so funny or maybe not. i just pulled my 650 out of the shed and there was a puddle of oil .it was from the seal on the front diff where the prop shaft goes in . has any body found a cross for this at napa.i hate my dealer thanks frank oh i found water in the diff but i think i caught it fast enough.
#19
650 Owners..KEEP CHECKING THAT FRT MOTOR MT BOLT!
I managed to change the front seal and it was a piece of cake. Only thing that I did wrong was when removing the seal I scored the housing a bit but so far so good. If anyone needs help with this PM me.
And my motor mount bolts seem to be okay too.
Thanks again everyone.
And my motor mount bolts seem to be okay too.
Thanks again everyone.
#20