I been asking about this in different forums for about 2 weeks, you should have spoke up but you may have not seen the questions.

I would rather have had the two halves apart but didnt have the right tools and wanted to get it done by this weekend. I dont think it will hurt anything because the angles have not been changed and the belt is not hitting the milled section. I have rode two miles and seen no belt wear at all. I would think in two miles something would show up if it was goingto.

I ran it with the cover off and the primary turned and looked great. It did have a chatter sound when I started it up for the very first time at idle but soon went away. As far as balancing goes how would anyone recommend getting the clutch balanced?

Alltoys, what part of the face plate are you talking about getting machined that was different than mine? How could the clutch come apart while being turned in the lathe? I think that would be impossible, but if you know how it could happen the tell me so I can put it on my site to make it safe for anyone else.

 

Never mind about the face plate part. Still dont understand about the clutch coming out of the lathe but thats not important to "me" since its already done but would still like to know for the website.

What is important to me is how anyone recommends getting the clutch balanced. It seems possible for it to fit on a tire balancer but how would you even up the weight? I dont know, just tossing out an idea.

 

Travelor: No, I don't have the 4 degree key, and I won't be putting it on. It would be too much timing, probably, when I get the turbo mounted. The last thing I want to worry about is detonation under boost! I also want to do some clutch mods, it would be nice to experiment with an extra one.

 

KOD,

In the past I have given you my number and email several times, if you wanted detailed information all you had to do was call. Not to mention other people who you have talked with have given you my number it is not my fault you did not call. I can give you more information over the phone as opposed to the web site. To do a proper job you should pull the clutch apart to machine the sheaves the one with the shaft can be done in the lathe but the other must be done on the mill. You can take off as much as 0.060 per side then step the cut edges so there is less than an 1/8 at the bottom of the straight cut edges. If you take off material on one side of the sheaves, the belt will ride more on one than the other which could cause more load on the cut sheave causing undo pressure and stress on that component. By taking off a total of 0.120, 0.060 from both sides a 360 belt will come within 1/8 to the top of the sheaves when collapsed. I take off a great deal of metal on the face plate, the movable sheave and the back of the sheave with the vanes. You don't need to machine the face plate to get the collapsed size if you wish you can install washers like you have done just drill out the washers that will fit over the larger pins instead of getting larger washers this makes it easier to balance later on. Oh yes you shouldn't use lock washers as a spacer as they will warp the face plate over time.

For balancing the sheaves it is rather easy. I made a shaft with a taper to fit the sheave with the shaft that fits on the crank shaft basically a copy of the crank shaft. I then had 2, 5inch planer blades that I mount with the sharp edge standing erect at 90* from horizontal. I then put the shaft with the clutch sitting on the sharp edges. Note the edges of the planer blades are perfectly level across from each other. I then put the shaft that has the sheave mounted to it across the planer edges. Now by holding any point of the sheave at 90* from horizontal let go and see which way it goes. It will either go down or up. If it goes down then that end is heavy so take off some material on the back side. If it goes up then remove some material from 180* of the opposite side. Keep doing this until the sheave will not move then it is balance. All 3 pieces should be balanced before sticking them back together.

I remove anywhere from 700 to 900 grams of material depending on what the purpose of the clutch ( what it is being used for ). You will find after having this modd done on a basic stock engine you will not have that much more top end. It will take a longer run to get a higher speed but the biggest advantage is the clutch will ramp up faster than before. This puts more load on the motor which takes some of the torque away from the wheels which means faster hole shots ( won't wheely as easy on WOT take offs ).

Now for the best advantage this modd will do is if you have ported, raised the compression, retarded the cams, installed a big bore kit. You will see a 10 - 15 mph gain on top end. Better yet install a Dyna CDI and get into the 80 + mph range with the above modds. On a straight stock 700 my clutch modd has repeated gains of 1/2 to 1 quad length in a 300 ft drag.

Recently I have acquired an experimental clutch and belt that will be available for the public later on for the Kawi's. So far I can honestly say my clutch modd runs close to this new one but this new one is by far more tuneable that is all.

 

Thanks for all the information. I appreciate you trying to help me. BTW, your number got gone many months ago. Like I said before, I couldnt get the two sheaves apart. I wanted to have this done by this weekend coming. I do like the idea of stepping up the flat part to make it more of an angle. Im already at 1/8" maybe 3/16" away form the top of the pulley as seen in picture 22, seems like another .060" would put if right near the top or the belt sticking over some. Balancing the sheaves may be easy for you since you seem to have all the equipment to make things with. I dont have access to that was hoping someone could tell me a place to take it to for balancing. Scott from Dynatek has helped me with that problem. I will look for some flat washers the same size as the lock washers are.

Those are some impressive numbers on the clutch mods. I would like to see gains anywhere I can. I dont feel I have lost any bottom end at all. It still pulls wheelies with the blimp of the throttle. I look forward to logging around 125 miles and doing some hard testing this coming weekend.

Again, thanks for the help and info you have given.

 

You can make an inexpensive clutch breaker by taking two 1/2 inch bolts, grinding down opposite sides of the heads so they will be the same width of the shank. Put these bolts at the widest points of a 5 inch vise so the bolt is sticking up through the jaws of the vise at least 3/4 above the vise. Take out the spring from the clutch and put the face plate back on the clutch assembly. Now take the clutch assembly put the part of the clutch that has the vanes over the bolts on the vise. Get a Cat bar or thick bar about 2 to 3 foot long lift the movable sheave so the bar will fit between the spider and touching 2 opposing legs of the spider. Now with constant pressure pushing down on the clutch assembly and a good strong push going anticlockwise is should break loose. I have however had to use a 5 foot snipe along with the 3 foot cat bar to break some of them loose. I have tried a 500 ft/lb impact and they would not budge, the bar is the best way to break them loose. If you have a buddy or relative you don't like have them wear a full face shield, heavy welding gloves and apron in case something breaks and flys apart, lol. At least with safety apparel they will feel safer more over feel appreciated, lol.

 

I had the "bolt in vice" idea in my head but wasnt sure about how to get the spider off. I understand what you are saying about how to remove the spider and thats a good idea but when you put it back together, how did you put the spider back to 205 ft-lbs, or did you just tighten it as much as you could?

 

KOD,

I used the 2ft snipe to tighten the spider just give a good pull to set it home. From natural turn of the anticlockwise thread on the spider and shaft it will tighten by itself with rotational speed and torque from the belt. I was gone for 4 days it doesn't take long for a thread to put a few pages back, lol.

 

Yeah, topics getting lost in here is pretty common if you dont get on in a few days. Im not sure I will take the sheaves apart now that I have tested the pulley. I would like to redo the cover plate but I hate to buy a new one.

 

Kissofdeath the way he machined your clutch is very dangerous the intermidant cutting on the moveable sheave of the clutch is very bad large pieces of metal could have chipped off the movable sheave or it could have shattered or spunout on your shaft and ruinned it the moveable sheave should be seperated from the shaft before any machining should occur. This part must be done on a milling machine to avoid chipping also he only had a 3 jaw chuck no problem because he should have machined it between centres with a drive dog to tun it, that way you would have about 1-3 thou runnout max instead of way more with 3 jaw setup as forit being out of balance it surely is now and depending how much, your bearings could take a beating I don't think they are axial load bearings and may burn out prematurely depending on runnout and balance if you want to clean it up you should find a machine shop with a cylindrical grinder and that way you can have almost zero runnout and take off only a very small amount just to clean it up prob about 3-7 thou maybe less maybe slightly more also im not sure about the surface finish this is most likely important because of the belt slipping if it is too smooth and the belt wearing if it it too rough I would recomend that anyone trying this mod get that tested before getting it machined and keep that value the same as for balancing it I have never done that so I don' know much about it by the way i am a machinist.