Do the ball joints have left and right handed threads on the ends? Is the left one left handed thread and the right one right handed thread? If so, that could be one of the reasons for the price difference. I noticed the front brake pads have different prices also. WTF is up with that?

 

Looks like I get to get started on this tonight. I had a post up on why my diff lock wouldn't lock and it looks like it is because of low fluid due to it leaking out the left front side of the diff where the axle goes in. Gonna run down to my buddies tonight to get the manual and hope I can get all the parts tomorrow as I am supposed to go out wheeling on Saturday. This sucks but I guess there isn't anything you can do about it.

Nice pics KOD. I'll be using them.

 

Well that wasn't very difficult. However my oil seal looked fine but I found a dealer with one in stock so I'm replacing it. However I think the lift kit caused the front end to over extend and pulled the front axle loose in the front diff. Just guessing here since the axle pretty much fell out of the front diff once I got it out of the outer hub. I put it back in and then it was harder to get out. Be interesting to see what happens when it gets all back together. I did get water in the front diff as well.

Your pics were helpful KOD as well as the service manual.

Thanks...

 

Im glad the pictures did you good. Thats the reason they are there. I got a call today from my dealer and all my parts are in. Looks like tomorrow will be a busy day for me.

mastrblastr, ball joints have to be the same for both sides. They dont have threads. The slide into the lower a-arm and slide into the steering knuckle. I got side tracked today but did get it finished.

 

KOD, I've never had a look at my ball joints to tell you the truth. When I have my quad jacked up, I check for any play in the front end and that's about it!

Whereisthemud, when I made the lift kit for my 650, I made sure I wasn't overtaxing the front CV's. I don't care what anyone says, but if you are running over 1 1/2inches of lift, you are really stressing the front CV's. I jacked up the front end of my quad and supported it with a jack stand in the center of the front skid plate. I put a jack underneath one a-arm and slowly lowered it until the front suspension was topped out. Then I removed the top nut that holds the front strut on and lowered the jack some more, while slowly turning the front tire. You can feel the CV joint start to get real notchy as you turn the wheel, which isn't cool. I made my lift 1 1/4 inches as I didn't want to stress the axles too much. Originally, I was gonna go 2 inches but found it was way too much.

 

Im being lazy today about finishing up my oil seal work but I will say that when I was putting the rotor/hub back on I noticed the wheel bearings in the steering knuckle are a little loose also. Im not gonna mess with that at this time. I will ride it another 500-600 miles and recheck it. You cant tell if they are loose with the tire mounted because the axle nut and brakes keep it tight but if you only have the rotor/hub slide in the knuckle you can tell very easy if its loose or tight.

 

Balljoint an front axle seal job is done. Also, I cleaned and repacked the rear axle seals. I thought it was kinda funny that big 0- ring shown in the service manual was all that was needed. After I took it apart it has the same oil seals as the others, just different size. I didnt have any seals to fit. Since it was out and easy to clean I just cleaned it up really good, greased it up and cleaned the shaft and put it all back together. If it works great, if not I will fix it later. I have started on the front drive shaft seals now. Both ends are leaking. This is getting to be a big hassle replaceing all these seals. I dont know if I got a bad batch in mine or what but every one that is giveing trouble is made the same way. The seals on the Prairie is a big dissapointment to me. If it wasnt for them it would be trouble free so far.

 

I don't know what is wrong with mine now. I replaced the oil seal even though it didn't look bad and now that I put the front axle back in my locker works. It works a little too good. It won't unlock. First it won't lock now it won't unlock. Gonna play with it some more but it looks like I may get to break apart the front diff to see what's happening in there. Lucky I like to take things apart but it sure is taking away from the riding time. Pretty dissappointing with the locker. I'd like to install the electric switch for it instead of that stupid lever. Anyone know if they make a kit for that.

Sorry for interjecting into your thread KOD but it is right on the same page as what I am working on.

 

Thats no problem.

Im not sure about the locker deal. Nothing to mess up installing that seal. I dont think your problem stemmed from that at all. I must be in your actuator. Probably be a good idea to take it apart and inspect and clean it. Nyroc did this to his but he wasnt having trouble, just a PM thing I guess. I would also like to see a push button servo motor setup.

 

Well I got the front diff out and pulled off the outer plate. I don't see anything wrong with the way the diff lock is working. Now I'm lost. Anyone know exactly how that diff lock is supposed to work in there. With the prairie in 2wd shouldn't the wheels spin opposite directions when spinning them? I thought that is how it used to work. Maybe there is something farther in. Enough for tonight. Leave it till tomorrow.