Hello all.

I have the front end of my 02 KVF650 apart to replace the wheel bearing in the knuckle. I could hear feel the play and hear the grinding while driving at slower speeds and uneven terrain. I have been told to replace both sides at the same time - if one goes, the other is not far behind? Thank god for after market parts. I bought two kits for less than Kawi wanted for one.

I also noticed that the a-arm collars and seals were worn with a little too much play. Took both off and low an behold, half the needle bearings were missing??? Who the hell knows what happened there. Pounding the bearings out took alot of effort, but everything is ready for the new parts. I ordered needle bearings, sleeves and seals for the a-arms but I didnt order the collars. They are worn, but appear to be salvagable. They cost 8 bucks a piece (canadian) and I have not been able to find any aftermarket (and you need 8 of them to do both sides!). Not sure if I should bite the bullet and buy all new ones?

I just had bearing replaced in my front diff because the shaft had a bit of play - there should be none. The dealer found it when they were changing the diff seal for the drive shaft. The freakin needle bearing in the front diff took 3 weeks on backorder. So I am getting tired of the $$ being shelled out. On top of it, the damn KEBC motor is scewed again. It is spooling out to far and staying engaged. I spun the motor and had it working, but within 100 meters of driving it gets screwed again. I disengaged it, put the bike in 4WD and pulled the fuse.

Anyway... Still love the bike. Any tips would be appreciated.

 

Bump ...

No one has had to replace a wheel bearing or a-arm bearings?

 

I have replaced both,

Press in the wheel bearings if you can, pounding them in will hurt them, they go in hard too.

Not sure about the sleeve you are talking of on the A-arms, when I bought mine they came all together.

IMPORTANT... Be sure you tighten (proper torque) the housing on the ball joints, if it gets loose or not tight enough you will wear your housing out and COST you big time. Also be careful sliding the ball joints into the housing, you do not want to srape any aluminum off the housing holes. I would pull the housing in with a strap so the ball joint will slip straight up and in, no angle to wear your housing when shoving them up in there.

I have the same wear you are talking of in the front diff, my axle is loose and causing wear marks on the axle shaft from the seal. Did your dealer warranty that work and if not could you tell me the cost? I want warranty and if you got it, I might too.

Watch your seal on the driveshaft, diff. side, they are prone to leaking, I need my third one and that's why I am saying Kawi should warranty my internal diff bearing. If they can't keep water out, it's not my fault.

Hope to hear from you on the diff. bearing.

Sincerely, Darrell

ps. check your wire connectors for the KEBC, people are finding it is just bad connections that cause the flashing, diaelctric grease is the fix. Somebody said the fuse gets loose and you just have to tweek the contactor clips in there too.

 

My Warranty had expired when I took it in for the diff seal from the drive shaft. Thats pretty much exactly what happened too - water and probably some sand and crap got in there and wore the bearing down. Originally, it was just the bearing (6305) that was gone. It is a standard bearing and you can get it aftermarket at any bearing shop. When they were attempting to put the shaft with the new bearing back in, the needle bearing fell apart(92046). Water took its toll in there for sure. Needle bearing was on backorder for a few weeks. So they replaced a few bearings to make sure and put it all back together. I had the bike in for the seal, fluid change (engine and diffs - all synthetic), engine brake acting up (continuously engaged) and the diff work - 485 taxes in CDN.

It should be under warranty. I never had warranty work problems with the bike (extended warranty also). I take my bike to Sleds and Treads in Sussex. When I get home tonight I will post the cost of the parts and labour for just the diff. There is a screw in there (26MM) that was torqued on pretty damn good. I was there when they took it off - needed an air gun for sure.

I will keep friggin with the KEBC. The dealer is checking with Kawi to see if it is still under warranty because I had it in for the same thing when it was under warranty.

Cheers

 

I still have warranty on my bike until Nov, so I hope to get it fixed under warranty. They have given me a few things now, KEBC actuator, clutch sleave, swing arm boot and bearings and a couple seals. My dealer says they won't, I say they should and called, they told me for my dealer to call their tech (today hopefully) and then I will know.

I told my dealer the only way Kawi is going to put better seals in is if it costs them money, NOT me. He said he would see today. I know they hate to hear it but Honda seals are much better, hense their reliability. My two buddies, one with the same miles have not one drop of oil coming out of their seals.

I want Kawi to have just as good or not better seals and will try my damnest to get them to do so, by making them pay for their lack of good seals now.

All the best, and thanks for the pricing.