Just a few questions about the liquids in the BF 750. Thanks guys,

1.) What Octane Fuel, if it matters, do you guys run in your BF.

2.) What engine oil, Kaw or aftermarket, do you run. (Synthetic?)

3.) What coolant do you run, i saw that it was just a 50/50 mix in the manual but I didnt know if there was something special out there for
the aluminum.

 

Run 91 octane, switch to synthetic oil when convenient, most modern antifreeze are safe for aluminum, but read on the bottle/jug to make sure. Always use a 50/50 mix distilled/antifreeze mix. Straight antifreeze has a low specific heat, meaning that it does not allow enough heat transfer between your hot and cool parts in the cooling system. Antifreeze needs at least 50 percent water to work as designed. Use distilled water when diluting your antifreeze or adding water to the cooling system.

 

Don't use the 91 octane as it steals H.P., the 87 is all you need, even states that info in the owners manual.
After break-in and I always wait till the 3rd oil change, then switch the engine oil over to 100% Synthetic, I use the Mobil1 Vtwin M/C oil, there are other brands as well.
I continue to use the regular M/C oil for the front end (Non-Synthetic) & you must use the wet brake oil for the rear.

 

BFB

I run in deserts and at high altitudes. If you ride at sea level and 70 degree weather 87 is fine. If you ride at 10000 feet and 90 degrees use 91 your engine will thank you. I see in your Bio you run at high elevations also. The warmer your engine is the more likely you will have a predetonation problem. The HP loss will not be measurable unless you have issues with your jetting. If you are running an aftermarket CDI I would not chance the lower 87 octane. The worst thing that happens with 91 is not all of it is fully combusted so your engine is slightly less efficient. While 87 at elevated temperatures and predetonation conditions will tear your engine apart.

Why would you wait till three oil changes before using synthetic oil?. Synthetic don't prevent rings from seating and parts from breaking in. The advantages of synthetic oil has to do with longevity of the oil properties and a higher level of protection not offered in a dino oil. The coefficient of friction of metal parts is negligible between Dino and synthetic oil. This is why numerous high dollar sport and touring cars are broken in and come from the factory running synthetic oils. In fact you really want to do your self a favor, break your engine in using synthetic oil. One of the most fatiguing times for your engine is with in the first 10 hours of operation.

 

Curls:
I have always waited till the 3rd Oil change, which I should of stated would be no more than 500 miles. Maybe I'm just "Old SchooL" but I do want that m/c engine to be seated in with the plain M/C oil 1st, then I switch to 100% synthetic.
Octane;
These VTwins are NOT High compression motors, there is NO Need for the 91 Octane.
Higher Octane Fuel BURNS SLOWER and their is NOT enough timing advance programmed into the stock CDI to compensate for that.
If your Engine is running HOT then 91 is Ok as that puts you closer to that pre-ignition point.
In the very High Country of the Colorado Rockies I ran 87 and 91 as an experiment this past Summer and my BF750 ran perfect if not better with the 87 Octane.

 

Why would higher elevation require higher octane. You compression will be way lower at 10000 feet than it will be at sea level.

 

There are many factors that are unique to riding in the Western mountain states. The temperatures can be really warm even at 10,000 feet. The atmosphere is much thinner so the amount of air cooling your radiator is reduced. This leads to elevated engine temperatures due to the less efficient cooling. It's like cutting your radiator in half. We also have very low humidity which causes the flash point of gasoline to be reduced. This is also combined with a lot of going up really big hills like 6,000 feet of elevation in less then 20 miles. All of these factors combined really tax your cooling system. If your cooling system can't keep up, your more likely to experience a predetonation condition. Often in Flagstaff AZ which is at an elevation of about 7,500 we will see density altitudes of over 12,000 feet. The extra dollar it cost me to ride all day on premium is worth it.

You are correct about the lower cylinder pressures caused by the reduced ambient air temperatures, but I've experienced predetonation first hand so I am a little cautious.

 

Are you guys loyal to a brand of Synthetic? What weight oil do you use. I know it is in the manual, and off the top of my head( the manual isnt with me) i think that is said 10W-40 weight. I have always been kind of loyal to Castrol Syntec but I didnt know if there was a brand out there specially formulated for the quad engines. Please let me know, and again, I appreciate all of the advice and help.
Cole

 

If your are running a car oil then I really like the Mobile1 15-50 full synthetic oils. They also make a few motorcycle oils that are a little easier on wet clutches (which you don't have). If you are going to run a motorcycle oil and are not fond of Mobile products Amsoil makes some really good oils.

 

I have had my BF750 for little over a year (new last Aug). I changed the oil after 100mi when new and went straight to 100% synthetic. I use V-Twin Amsoil with a stock filter. Engine starts really easy even when cold and after approx 1200mi I have had no issues with this machine at all. I feel sort of luckey that I have been immune to the common issues that usually come up (jetting, tie-rods and air box contamination0. Never changed the front or rear oils as of yet but I guess it would be wise to use the Kawi recommended oils for these since I may have issues with the diff lock and wet brake with synthetic oils.