I should be picking up a new bf750 silver tommorrow. I was wondering what mods I should consider adding to my new ute. Should the tranny be snorkelled like some of the other types of quads, and if so has anyone done this and can you give me some tips? So far I was planning on adding wheels and tires and maybe a aftermarket air filter.

 

First thing to get would be aftermarket wheels/tires.

The stock ones suck.

After that, I would get an exhaust, clutch kit, and CDI.

Then get full skid plates, etc.

Then, get some aftermarket suspesnion all around.

You don't really need to snorkle it unless you are going to be sinking it in the water. I am pretty sure that the stock snorkle for the transmission, etc comes out by the airbox.

 

I've done the aftermarket rims and tires, clutch kit (Dalton blue and orange) and the Dynatek CDI box. does the exhaust make a difference after all that stuff and do you have to re-jet after putting an aftermarket exhaust on it? I'm not much of a mechanic so I can't mess with jetting.

 

The exhaust will give you more low end and midrange power. Not to mention how awesome they sound on V-twins![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Get the Highlifer ICM $109.00, the Diamond G 6 degree offset key $15.00 and the Dyno Jet $100.00. These will be the only engine mods you will ever need. Unreal response!!!

http://highlifter.com/

http://www.diamondgracing.com/page/page/2032395.htm

http://dynojet.com/

 

Or instead of doing the offset key you can get a CDI....much easier installation!

 

I'm not sure what an offset key is. Could y'all help me out on that? And Blazin Orange, I'd like to see pictures of your bike with the new wheels. I'm wanting to get new wheels also but i don't know if I should get Black or Alum/Chrome wheels with the Silver. Also, does a clutch kit void warranty?

 

My mods are listed below, the new exhaust and K&N intake are next followed by the clutch kit.

 

I wrote this awhile back so here it is again, hope it helps...



Ok, Got the Brute 750 all back together with the new seals and the 6* key installed with no leaks thank GOD!! Just a quick report of my opinion of the 6* key.

Having already installed the HL ICM, and Dyno Jet running on 27" Mudlites the power was all there. The HL ICM gave me back what I lost when I put the 27" tires on. Installing the Dyno Jet gave me superior throttle response "A Huge Difference" with this modification and I was a lot quicker off the line. It was installed using the Dyno Jet recommendations of the DJ144 in the front carb and the DJ150 in the rear carb below 3000 feet. with the clip on needle groove #4 at applications below 5000 feet. I have had no issues with this set up with stock exhaust.

After installing the 6* key I noticed an approximate 5% "SEAT OF THE PANTS" power increase on top of my other mods. Needless to say I was surprised with this outcome. This was about 30 minutes of riding time after the 6* install. I will be riding at Haspin Acres this weekend and will give you a report after a days worth of riding next week.

Installation recommendations for the do it yourself guys:

1. Buy a gasket kit, they say that the gaskets are reusable but I disagree. $24.00 so don't waste your time, get the crank cover and water pump.
2. Take your time, don’t think you can just whip through this cause it looks easy. sure Dimond G can do them in 20 min. but trust me, you cant.
3. Drain oil from the oil plug, easier.
4. Put a clamp on the radiator hose going to the water pump.
5. Remove the hose clamp from the water pump and let the antifreeze flow out.
6. Remove that main bolt under the pull starter, I used a pipe wrinch to hold it while I borke it free.
7. Remove the cover very gently to not damage any seals.
8. It is easy to remove the old key but a pain in the *** to install the new one without it falling out on you every time you try to slip sleeve back over it. Make sure you have the Key at the top to assist in this. Don’t damage the new key, it is a tight fit.
9. After it is all installed, clean the surfaces extra good with laquer thinner. Make sure you clean the rubber boot that the wires go into very well and apply some silicon around this boot. If you buy OEM replacement gaskets, no silicone is needed. Just clean it up good.
10. Install the cover very carefully not to damage any of the seals. I lifted the right side of the Brute up onto 6"x6" blocks to assist me lining up the pump shaft, unlike the first time when I damaged my seal.
11. Slide the cover on slow, grease up the seal centers to assist it sliding it on and dont force it on.
12. Once it is on, install your bolts and tighten them in opposites, not top to bottom.
13. Put on your impeller, clean up your pump surfaces and install the gasket and pump cover.
14. Refill Oil, change filter while you are at it.
15. Top off your antifreeze, refill is a pain in the ***!!
16. I let it sit for a while to let the silicon dry around the rubber wire seal to ensure no leaking.
17. Let her warm up and look for leaks. If you did it right no leaks, if you damaged a seal in the water pump oil will be leaking from the hose that comes out of the bottom of the water pump. I learned the hard way@!

I know also run a Dalton clutch kit.

 

rydude, click the picture of the camera under my name....that will lead you to pictures of my Brute Force 750 with the wheels/tires on it.

Let me know what you think of them!