Kawasaki Discussions about Kawasaki ATVs.

Brute upgrades?

Old Jan 21, 2006 | 12:50 AM
  #1  
ToughGUY2169's Avatar
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Default Brute upgrades?

What is a good site, that has alot of brute upgrades. Anyone know of any good ones?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 03:48 AM
  #2  
killzoneq2's Avatar
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Default Brute upgrades?

Get the Highlifer ICM $109.00, the Diamond G 6 degree offset key $15.00 and the Dyno Jet $100.00. These will be the only engine mods you will ever need. Unreal response!!!

http://highlifter.com/

http://www.diamondgracing.com/page/page/2032395.htm

http://dynojet.com/
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 11:00 AM
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Default Brute upgrades?

the 6 dgree key will vastly improve bottomend and take off but there is
a down side. you will loose upper mid and top end performance.

 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 11:17 AM
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Default Brute upgrades?

i'm sorry I am not thinking correctly. The Dyna unit controlls the ign. timing and thus renders the key a waste of time and money so there is the real deal. low rpm advances timming and varys to upper rpm range by retarding the timing ( I think its retarding in upper ) . it also un restricts the rev limmiter of factory cdi I believe

 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 01:40 PM
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Default Brute upgrades?

Stormseeker,


killzoneq2
Wrote:
Get the Highlifer ICM $109.00, the Diamond G 6 degree offset key $15.00 and the Dyno Jet $100.00. These will be the only engine mods you will ever need. Unreal response!!!


I agree with you I like the CDI module to advance the timing instead of using a offset key, but what killzone2 was referring to is a jet kit for the carburetor to allow the lean bottom to be fixed.

Dyno Jet = Carb jetting kit
Dyna Tek = CDI Module

 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 05:27 PM
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Default Brute upgrades?

I got the dyno jet kit on ebay for 53 dollars delivered to my door. Do some searching and if I can help you out let me know.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 07:53 PM
  #7  
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Default Brute upgrades?

Originally posted by: stormseeker
i'm sorry I am not thinking correctly. The Dyna unit controlls the ign. timing and thus renders the key a waste of time and money so there is the real deal. low rpm advances timming and varys to upper rpm range by retarding the timing ( I think its retarding in upper ) . it also un restricts the rev limmiter of factory cdi I believe


Im sorry, I don’t think I even mentioned the Dyna unit with the 6*.... I think I said HL ICM and installing the 6* offset key with that you will see more torque, how do I know this??? I have done it.. Things that make you go Hummmmmm..Will the 6* key work with the Dyna?? I don’t know. I have never done it. And a good find on the dyno jet.. That is what I paid when the Brute first came out. I think you can get them under that on E-Bay now.

I wrote this a while back about the 6* key and my other mods.


Ok, Got the Brute 750 all back together with the new seals and the 6* key installed with no leaks thank GOD!! Just a quick report of my opinion of the 6* key.

Having already installed the HL ICM, and Dyno Jet running on 27" Mudlites the power was all there. The HL ICM gave me back what I lost when I put the 27" tires on. Installing the Dyno Jet gave me superior throttle response "A Huge Difference" with this modification and I was a lot quicker off the line. It was installed using the Dyno Jet recommendations of the DJ144 in the front carb and the DJ150 in the rear carb below 3000 feet. with the clip on needle groove #4 at applications below 5000 feet. I have had no issues with this set up with stock exhaust.

After installing the 6* key I noticed an approximate 5% "SEAT OF THE PANTS" power increase on top of my other mods. Needless to say I was surprised with this outcome. This was about 30 minutes of riding time after the 6* install. Installation recommendations for the do it yourself guys:

1. Buy a gasket kit, they say that the gaskets are reusable but I disagree. $24.00 so don't waste your time, get the crank cover and water pump.
2. Take your time, don’t think you can just whip through this cause it looks easy. sure Dimond G can do them in 20 min. but trust me, you cant.
3. Drain oil from the oil plug, easier.
4. Put a clamp on the radiator hose going to the water pump.
5. Remove the hose clamp from the water pump and let the antifreeze flow out.
6. Remove that main bolt under the pull starter, I used a pipe wrinch to hold it while I borke it free.
7. Remove the cover very gently to not damage any seals.
8. It is easy to remove the old key but a pain in the *** to install the new one without it falling out on you every time you try to slip sleeve back over it. Make sure you have the Key at the top to assist in this. Don’t damage the new key, it is a tight fit.
9. After it is all installed, clean the surfaces extra good with laquer thinner. Make sure you clean the rubber boot that the wires go into very well and apply some silicon around this boot. If you buy OEM replacement gaskets, no silicone is needed. Just clean it up good.
10. Install the cover very carefully not to damage any of the seals. I lifted the right side of the Brute up onto 6"x6" blocks to assist me lining up the pump shaft, unlike the first time when I damaged my seal.
11. Slide the cover on slow, grease up the seal centers to assist it sliding it on and dont force it on.
12. Once it is on, install your bolts and tighten them in opposites, not top to bottom.
13. Put on your impeller, clean up your pump surfaces and install the gasket and pump cover.
14. Refill Oil, change filter while you are at it.
15. Top off your antifreeze, refill is a pain in the ***!!
16. I let it sit for a while to let the silicon dry around the rubber wire seal to ensure no leaking.
17. Let her warm up and look for leaks. If you did it right no leaks, if you damaged a seal in the water pump oil will be leaking from the hose that comes out of the bottom of the water pump. I learned the hard way@!
This is not recommended installation from Diamond G. This is what I learned by doing it two times after damaging a seal. Learn from my mistake and take your time!!!!

I hope this helps any of you do it yourself guys out there. Any questions feel free to e-mail me. I may have missed something but am sure it is all there. To the experts, if something is missing please add it.

A standard wheel puller from Auto Zone will work, just reinstall your bolt so the wheel puller does not go into the shaft and split it, it is not the same size.Text
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 08:08 PM
  #8  
bfb750BF's Avatar
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Default Brute upgrades?

Now, with all of that added power, throw on a complete set of the "WORKS" Shocks, so your BF can handle as great as the power that it has.
Trust me, you won't be sorry with the SHOCK UPGRADE.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 09:44 PM
  #9  
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Default Brute upgrades?

The dyna CDI eliminates the need for any module it will do what any module will do plus more.

All a module does is trick the CDI into thinking its going faster than it really is to take out a low end de-tune while the CDI will do this and raise the timing so you see gains all through out the power band. The brute also has a top end de-tune that the CDI will fix...

If you want performance in a plug and play package get a dyna... If you want even more in a tunable package for a bit more price get the VDI... don't bother with a module.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 12:48 PM
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Default Brute upgrades?

man that is a long list of work to go through when a person can do 5 min. and spend under $100.00 for a real unit like dyna and just plug and play with no flywheel pulling ect. ect. I dont like to spend my time in the shop tearing into an engin, I prefer the plug and play method. my dealer also reccomended the dyna over the other options, but yall do what you want to and I will still be in the trails and say howdy when I pass ya. most of all we all like our atv's
 
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