When riding in 4wd the light on my dash flashes back and forth from 2wd to 4wd. Everything works fine, but wondering what causes this. Heard it was either the belt actuator of the 4wd actuator, and that this was a code depicting one or the other. However everything is working fine. Could it be something else? Took it to my dealer adn he said it was due to dirty oil in the frontend. After $70 dollars and an 90 minute ride I arrived home to the same problem. Can anybody help me?

 

First, if the dealer charged you $70 and the problem is reoccuring, that is not right and it tells you what kind of guys you are dealing with.

Second, you say everthing works fine. Have you done any checks or is it just your gut feeling?
Is the quad shifting between 2/4WD when quad is lifted up in the air?
Is the engine brake actuator cyclingo or homing when shutting off the ignition key?
Is there any abnormal noise coming from either the front diff or engine brake system?
Is there any visual damages that you can see on the either of actuators or the front diff gear case (including internal parts)?
Etc.
If all the above turns out good, then I would suspect the control module is acting up.

 

Here is some info bruteforcebob provided in the tech tips of the Nyroc forum. This should tell you the source of your problem.

Actuator Control System Trouble Shooting,
When the actuator fails, the controller enters failure mode and the indicator light illuminates 2WD,4WD alternately.
1. If it alternates really fast at .5 seconds on 2wd and .5 seconds on 4wd then the problem is Selectable 2wd/4wd actuator.
2. If it alternates from 2wd/4wd at 1 second intervals, the problem is the Engine Brake Actuator.
3. If it alternates from 2wd/4wd at 2 second intervals, the problem is both the selectable 2wd/4wd actuator and Engine brake actuator.

 

Light flashing problem is intermittent. Happens in both 2 or 4 wheel drive. However on my last ride I did notice that when flashing, I had no more engine braking. The wheeler would either just freewheel down a hill, or engine brake would work on/off very quickly, wheeler was real jerky coming down a grade and I could hear the actuator freaking out. Also light flashes in 1 sec. increments, so we know it is the engine brake actuator causing the problem. My next question is how do I fix this? Must I replace the actuator, or can it be repaired? Anybody else ever have this problem and how much to fix? Thanks in advance.

 

You may have to replace any of following:
1). EBC actuator
2). Control unit
3). Both EBC actuator and Control unit

 

First off, check and clean the actuator connection.

You can actually just disconnect the actuator all together and get better performance and fuel mileage out of your machine. It is actually a very common mod.

There a couple ways to approach this mod.

1. Remove the fork inside the clutch cover. This disconnects the KEBC while maintaining the use of the actuator so the lights don't flash, but your actuator has to work for this one.

2. Install a DG6. This device allows a complete disconnection of the KEBC actuator and keeps the 2wd/4wd lights from flashing. With this module many guys have gone as far as ditching the Brute Force clutch cover to replace it with a simpler V-force cover and clutch parts. This makes for a very clean look and makes your machine slightly lighter. Here is a link for the DG6. http://www.diamondgracing.com/catalo...67/1653498.htm


I have the fork removed and have been very happy with the faster acceleration and lower fuel consumption. Here is a link to another thread that describes this very topic.

http://www.nyrocatv.com/forum.cgi?vi...viewtopic=1618

 

Is faster acceleration due to this mod seat of the pants or has someone actually tested it? In other words, 2 stock BF 750's, one with fork removed and one without in a drag race will the one with the mod win? Also how much more fuel mileage is gained with this mod? Has anyone tested? Thanks for all the info.

 

Yes, the one with the mod will win. Many guys have done this mod. It is very common.

I heard statement like this on one of the forums and I can't remember from who. "Try foot racing your brother for 100 yards, the only stipulation is that someone will be holding on to your shirt while you and your brother are running. Who will win? This is not exactly the case for the KEBC, but it is the same concept. There is always pressure on the bearing whether the KEBC is activated or not.

Anytime you increase efficiency be reducing drag you increase fuel mileage. I'm not sure of the numbers right now because my riding varies between fuel tanks and It would not be a real accurate figure.

 

Prairie Dog,

Just wondering if you ever solved the problem? My neighbor's is doing the same thing.

Thanks

 

hey sounds like Kawasaki needs to redesigh this system and recall all the new units and fix at their dime , it is hard to still want my bike with others out there so good and comparable , mine has the same kinda trouble please keep me informed on how you repaired thanks fellas