Thanks for all the great input from everyone. I really like this little bike,gained a ton low and midrange.With all these mods now complete I can even pull the front wheels off the ground,with precision shifting of my fat*ss. Still looking for a little more on top,I was curious if anyone has tried the drive clutch mod in nyroc's tech tips on a 360. Seems like that might squeeze a little more out of her.

 

I brought up trying the top speed primary clutch mod on another 360 thread, but couldn't get any takers. Take a permanent black marker and put a mark on the sheaves that goes all the way to the top. Drive the machine someplace where you can get up to top speed, and keep it there for a short distance. Remove the clutch cover and see how high up the belt traveled. About 1/4 inch from the top of the sheaves is considered topped out. If the belt did top out (clutch fully shifted out), you could gain with the top speed mod.
Many people had problems with the 360 clutches beating themselves to death. If there are many miles on yours or it's noisy, have the clutch rebuilt by a reputable clutch guy.
If you want to try the top speed mod, there is a guy that goes by "Vforcejohn" on the Kawieriders forum. He could do the mod, and make any needed repairs also. He really knows his stuff.

 

Hey Oleman, How many miles have you had the advance key in for?
Strings

 

I put the key in quite awhile ago--probly had under 1000 miles on it--why do you ask???
I read in a thread about opening up the exhaust valve to .021 (i think specs are 018 to 020) and I am looking forward to trying this--everytime I sdjust the valves I have noticed it always runs better and that my exhaust valve was always tight--I also kept the exhaust valve adjusted tight because it ticks pretty loud at 020----a i am going to try the 021 and see if it helps--damn the ticking!!!!
I have checked my belt ride on the primary and it doesnt get anywhere near the top--even with the comet clutch??? I am really convinced that we are not making enough rpm to get the belt to the top, that is why i am thinking of lightening up my primary weights!! any suggestions??
I like my new motto "RIDE SLOW AND LIVE LONG seems to fit the 360 profile

 

I was wondering because Some told me overtime it would cause a valve tap. Also I rode with you a couple of years ago at Blue **** Poker Run and was wandering if you were going to be riding around here again soon because I have a stock 360 and would like to race you to see how much of a difference your mods have made.
Strings

2004 Kawasaki 360 Prairie 4X4
Full Skid Plates
Mud-Lites
Moose Hand Guards

1999 Honda 300EX

2004 Arctic Cat 250 4X4

1972 Ford Bronco

1993 Chevy 1 Ton
Detroit Diesel

 

You will need heavier weights to force the sheaves together further.
The exhaust valves on the ones I adjusted to the loose side of the tolerance did tick noticably afterwards, but it's better than running poorly and eventually burning the valve.

 

[quote]
Originally posted by: strings
I was wondering because Some told me overtime it would cause a valve tap.
Strings

No chance of the advance key causing a valve tap. Two completely unrelated items.

 

Hey Novakaw--you say i need heavier weights??? Seems to me that the heavy weights due to momentum push the clutch in harder and quicker---which in turns keeps me in a higher gear ratio and bogs the motor---i dont understand these clutches completey yet but i think lighter weights would keep my engine reved harder??? SCENARIO= I get around 40 mph on a flat straightaway and as soon as i hit an upgrade i begin losing speed and RPM (with rpm being the most important) and at the top of a small grade i am lucky to be doing 30mph. seems to me that increasing rpm (slightly with lighter weights which will not fully shift out the clutch) will at least keep up my speed as opposed to losing it on every upgrade.

I think the real problem is the clutch actually isnt downshifting properly. this i would guess has to do with fine tuning springs and weights. If the primary spring controls stall and very slow riding, i am happy with what i have. I am thinking that different weights (comet has a lot of different weights and styles that come on and off at different rpms. I have not found anybody yet that can define for me exactly what weights and configurations i need. I dont want my bike overrevving on slow trail rides, but i would love to have some more rpm (downshift) at wide open throttle like when climbing a hill . ANYONE GOT A SUGGESTION?

RIDE SLOW AND LIVE LONG (i love this quote) but lifes no fun under 40 mph (shoulda bought the 650 lol

 

I noticed someone mentioned that the with the valves not adjust properly that the 360 like to stall and such. Well lately, my 360 takes forever to run properly and everyonce and awhile it dies. I just hit the 300 hour mark and i havnt had the valves checked in awhile. Do you guys think that is the problem is my carb a little dirty or somthing. I know i need to get the valves checked so im thinking that is what the problem is.

Also, this is a great 360 thread. Very rarly do i see a thread with the 360 as the topic have this many replies. Keep it up[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

If the current weights can't force the sheaves completely together, lighter ones will never get the job done.
The 360's I've ridden seemed to have no problem revving and downshifting. I can't understand why the 300 Prairie outperforms the 360; they both have low tech 2 valve engines, but the 300's I've driven definately work better than the 360. That engine should be able to maintain 40mph up an upgrade.