I have an 06 Brute force 650i. It started over heating and boiling over into the overflow bottle. I noticed that the fan wasen't working. Turns out there was a lead broken on the circuit breaker. I replaced the cct breaker and the fan began working. The breaker tripped again and I reset it. Shortly after the 2 wires coming out of the fan melted together and burned out as well as melting the cct breaker. I've replaced both the fan and the breaker ( very expensive ) and ran it again. The fan worked perfect while idiling, soon as I got on and took it for a spin the breaker tripped again. I don't wanna reset it and try it again, afraid the fan will burn out again.. Can anyone please give me some insite as to possible problems or solutions...

Thanks

 

The fan circuit breaker is designed to trip (open) at 10 amp but in my experiment it trips before that something like 7 or 8 amp.
I have an idea of installing an automatically resetting circuit breaker and ditch the OEM manually resetting one.
What you really need to do is find out why your quad is overheating so often or why your cooling fan is working so hard so it trips the circuit breaker so often. On my 750 with amost 1000 miles, the breaker tripped only once or twice in 4 years of hard riding/towing, and every single cooling system component is still original.
Check your cooling system for any deficiency.

 

Thanks for the reply. My fan dosen't seem to be working hard and my bike dosen't overheat when the fan is working. I had it idiling today for about a half hour. the fan kicked in 3 or 4 times for maybe 3 seconds at a time. Everything seemed to be working fine. Then as soon as I got on, I may have moved the bike 10 feet, the fan kicked in for maybe a second and then stopped. It had tripped the breaker. So it really seems like there must be a broken or loose wire somewhere. Mabe its the buss connector that some people have talked about. It may be shorting out. I'll have to check it out and see..
Oh, and having read some other blogs, I went out afterwards and disconnected the 2 wires to the fan switch, turned the key on and crossed the wires, and the fan didn't come on, and I had reset the breaker prior to. I have the front fenders off so I have easy access and can monitor it closely.. So again it seems like there might be a broken wire somewhere which may have caused the other motor to burn out...
If you have an other ideas to check I'd appreciate it..

Thanks

Dale

 

Very first thing you should check is the rear buss connector. I would also try another circuit breaker in case yours is tripping at lower amperage than what it is supposed to.

 

I just had the bike running for about 30mins, the fan was kicking in and out as its suppose to, but I checked the resistance across the switch as it was kicking in and out. When the switch made I had a resistance of about 25ohms. I'm guessing this is obviously pretty high as it should prob. be pretty close to 0ohms. Once again it looks like theres a short in the system. Looks like the buss connector is gonna be the next place I check. What exactly does the buss connector look like, and is there only 2 wires that run through it??

Thanks

 

OK, so I removed the rear buss connector, joined all white wires together and all brown wires together. The bike ran good for a while and then tripped the breajer again. So I seperated the 2 white wires that run from the cct breaker to the 30A fuse panel, joined them together and then joined the other 2 white wires together and now my bike is draining the battery in no time, or its just not charging, either or. What exactly are the 4 white wires and 4 brown wires for????
Can anyone help me with this, or have any ideas of possible problems or solutions...

Thanks

 

Kinger,

no worries on this, it should be pretty simple to find. In order for your 10A breaker to trip, you have to have 10A go through it, (or 7 ~ 8A according to Hayahi, which is entirely possible.) From the breaker, there is a Blue white wire that goes to the fan switch. The fan switch is a normally Open switch, meaning that under normal conditions, there will be no current flowing through it. The resistance check that you did on it was not Valid. Reason being, When your fan was cycling on and off that meant that there was current flowing through the switch. The way an ohm meter works, ( maybe read about it on google or something), you cannot perform a resistance check when there is current flowing. Regardless, I don't think that the switch is your problem.. . . From the fanswitch, there is a Blue wire leaving it, which goes to a connector. The Blue wire continues through the connector and goes to the rad fan. This is the positive to the Fan. On the other side of the fan, the neagative, there is a black wire. The black wire goes through the connector and eventually ties to ground.

Now, you have 1 of two possible problems. 1) your Wiring is faulty and the positive shorty directly to ground, causing more than 10A, which trips your breaker. Or 2) The fan motor is shorted or overloaded causing more than 10A, which will also trip your breaker.

One way to find out what your problem is NOT is to by pass all the existing wiring to run your fan. You can do this by disconnecting the White Wire that goes from the 30A fuse to the 10A breaker.

Get a 10A Fuse, preferably an automotive fuse because they are not fast blow fuses, and get a piece of wire and connect it in series with it. Then, disconnect the Blue wire from the fan. If you are just going to use the connector that is attached to the fan wires, you will have to make another jumper to ground the fan ( The black wire of the connector will have to be attached to ground.) Connect the piece of wire you have made with the fuse in series with it to the blue wire on the fan. The last thing you will have to do it connect the other end of the jumper you have made to the positive terminal of the battery. Be aware that the fan will turn on as soon as you connect it, regardless of key position. Another thing I will get you to do, since you do have a meter . . switch it to DC Amps, and connect it in series with your jumper. This will tell us just how much current your fan is drawing. Let your fan run for a minute or so. If your fuse blows than you know there is a problem with the fan. If it doesn't blow you know there is a problem with the existing wiring. WE can trouble shoot that later.

I know this seems like a lot but you can prob do this test in less than 30 mins if you already have a fuse on hand. Make your jumper first, with the fuse in series with it, and ensure that it is lots long. Im not sure of the connector that the fan wires are connected to, but depending on your soldering skills you might want to just cut the blue wire that goes from the fan to the connector and solder it back together when you are all done.