I've read much about what oil everyone uses but would really love a scientific answer to: Does it really matter if you use an ATV/UTV oil or is any good oil fine as long as the weight is correct? Now I understand back in the old days of wet-clutches one had to be careful or you might end up with a slipping clutch due to missing additives. But today do I really need $7 / QT ATV/UTV oil or is Pennzoil, valvolene, etc any good oil adequate?
Quads in question are: 2012 brute 750i 4x4
2008 Can Am Outlander 800

What do you all think?

 

Scientifically, it must matter or they wouldn't be selling it. At least that what they'll say down in marketing.

Scientifically, it must not because there are too many people using regular oil in wet clutch systems that have had no problems.

Obviously, it's not an exact science once it makes it to real world applications.

You want a cheap alternative that has no friction modifiers to use in a wet clutch system? Shell Rotella.


Now, let the oil wars begin.

 

I'm not trying to start a battle or anything. I just can understand why the fully synt. oil I run in my cobra mustang is $2 / Qt cheaper than the standard oil that says Kawa@@@@ on it. Makes little since to me, but I'm not in marketing:-)
I will also say back in the day of my ATC 350X honda which was bad-ars back then I did run fully synthetic oil (auto oil) in it one time and my clutch did indeed start slipping when I was running hard and hot. It took one oil flush with ATC specific oil and it stopped, that's a real world experince not something I heard from my brothers, friends, sisters, younger dogs, puppy.

Bottom line is this; for a Sunday couch driver like myself do I really need $7 / qt 10-40 Kawa$$$$$ oil or will good quality correct wt standard motor oil be adiquite. We change oil and filter every spring, unless something happens requiring a change (water, high miles, excessive heat, etc.).

 

I don't believe a CVT like the Kawasaki has a wet clutch because it is belt drive. I believe the Can Am is the same type setup.

I've used Mobil 1 Syn 5-30 and 15-50 in my Prairie 400 and it ran fine. This was automobile oil.

Yes, Rotella 15-40 dino is rated for MC use. Their 5-40 syn is also rated for motorcycles.

If you have an engine with a wet clutch, such as most Japanese street bikes, dirt bikes, etc, you do not want to use the Energy Conserving oils with the Starburst label on them because they contain friction modifiers that can cause the clutch plates to slip.

I've used the Mobil 1 15-50 in my street and dirt bikes with no problems, but that was a few years ago before I switched to Rotella 5-40 so I can't speak to the current formulations as far as use in a wet clutch bike. I'd be comfy using in my Prairie though.

 

Rotella T6 5w40 Synthetic on just about every thing with 4 or 2 wheels. Sorry,I said I wasn't gonna get in an oil fight again!

 

I guess I lied Here we go again.Look down at the bottom in Blue lettering.
All About Motor Oil

 

I used to go to a club that on Thursday's, it was baby oil night. Totally off subject, but a great memory.

So here's my take on oil. If you've been using an oil, and it's working, and you're not worried about it, why switch? I wouldn't want the doubt of the new stuff not working eating away at me.

Growing up, all my dad ever used was Quaker State in our vehicles. I hear horror stories about that, but we never had an oil related issue in any of our cars. Never had to break in to the motor, so can't say how well everything wore, or how gunked up it may have been. I always liked Castrol for my cars and cvt atv's. Wet clutch stuff, I'll go with the Rotella.

Those are just my choices. My advice is to go with what you feel is best. Might not be the same choice as mine, but it's your choice to make.




I miss Thursday nights.

 

Baby oil You can share your memories,we wont tell!

 

Well I just went ahead with the $7 / qt stuff like I've been using for the last 20 years. Although, I did use the cheapest oil money can buy one time in a brand new outlander 800 (mine), it had less than 20 hours on it and less than 100 miles, it still smelled new. Riding along a lake in Missouri, a big rock rolled out from under me and I went into lake and about six feet-deep water. I was more worried about me than the quad. I got out from under it ok, and of-course it rolled. It looked like four little black turtles floating in the water, yep just the tires is all you could see. Add insult to embarrasment, I had to swim it over to a boat ramp to get it out. Flipped it over and had a buddie tow me back to camp, I didnt' even try to start it. Got back and took her appart, took every part off I could, when I took the plugs out I hit the starter and it looked like old faithfull; water shot from one plug hole then the other probably 40-50 feet, I'm sure it was something to see. To make a long story short I filled her full of diesel fuel and I mean full, oil tank, cylender heads through the plug holes, etc. full; I drained it, let it set a bit and put havoline 10-30 in it, it was like $4 for a 5 gallan jug. She fired right up, I rode ten minutes and drained the oil and did it again, rode 30 minutes and did it again. I rode the next three days on that cheap stuff before we got home and put good oil back in it. Six years later I still have that quad, it uses no oil, blows no smoke, runs great. Funny part is I have several buddies with newer supposidly more powerfully Outlanders, modded, etc. and mine still will out run any of theirs, the guys all sware I've moded mine somehow and am not telling them; I just tell them I washed it real good inside and out once and it's ran like mad ever since. Really, no joke, mine will still stand it straigt up at 30mph and wheele; and takes off like a rocket, maybe I shorted out some governer or limiter when I filled it with water, who knows.

 

For sure you did all the right things right after you got it out of water!

BTW, shat's oil tank in your Outlander?